DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY NEWS FROM ePHOTOzine

© Sigma

 

Sigma has officially launched the AF Cine 28-105mm T3 FF, the second lens in its autofocus cinema line. The new model is designed to merge the optical performance of Sigma’s Art series with professional-grade cinema mechanics, offering filmmakers a versatile tool for modern production.

 

Features

• Advanced optical design: Built on the foundation of Sigma’s 28–105mm F2.8 DG DN | Art, the lens delivers high resolution, smooth bokeh, and minimal flare or ghosting across its focal range.
• Cinema-ready mechanics: Includes industry-standard 0.8M pitch gears, a clickless aperture ring, and a limited-rotation focus ring for precise control during filming.
• High-performance autofocus: Powered by Sigma’s High-response Linear Actuator (HLA), the lens ensures near-silent operation and dependable tracking, making it suitable for fast-paced action, gimbal work, and documentary shooting.

 

© Sigma

 

Price and Availability

The Sigma AF Cine 28–105mm T3 FF will retail at £2799. It will be available in Sony E-mount and L-Mount versions starting April 16, 2026. Product specifications may be subject to change prior to release.
 

For more information, visit Sigma’s official website.

 

The well known saying: 'Keep it simple stupid' is well known for a reason – it works. Yes, there are times when lots of compositional elements do work but by creating an almost 'empty' space, you can actually create a stronger image.

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1. Why Does It Work?

By cutting out clutter, other people etc. you remove potential distractions and it'll be easier for the viewer of your image to understand what / who your main focus is in the shot and what you're trying to say.
 

2. Subject Choice

 

Just because you're keeping things simple it doesn't mean it has to be boring. Actually, with this technique, you have to work hard to do the opposite and find a strong subject that can stand up on its own. This becomes even more relevant when you're using a large amount of space so your subject only takes up a small amount of the frame.

Also, rather than thinking about what to include in your frame, think the opposite and look for items you can remove.
 

Here are a few ways you can achieve a minimalist look to your shots:

  3. Blurry Backgrounds

 

An obvious way to make your subject stand out is to adjust your aperture so everything in the background is thrown out of focus. You can find more tips on how to do this here: Creative Aperture / Depth Of Field

  4. Plain Backgrounds

Studio backgrounds and other material can be used to hide distracting objects inside and while you're out, use plain walls, fences or if you're shooting small subjects such as flowers, try taking your own backgrounds with you. On the subject of flowers, you can lower your angle so you're shooting up at the flower with the sky as your background which can give you a minimalist-style shot. White backgrounds are an obvious choice but don't think you can't use some bold, strong colour too (as we'll explain further down the page).

 

5. Play With Colour

 

If your subject and background contrast your subject will stand out from the shot. You can do this with colour (bright, strong colours work well) or light, using a brighter subject against a darker background and vice versa. Just make sure there are no 'hot spots' which will pull the viewer's eye away.

Also, having a strong colour filling your background that's the same as your subject can work in some situations or try producing black & white shots which rely on strong subjects and textures to make them interesting. You could even use shapes and colour as your subject, creating a strong composition that fills your frame in the process. 

6. Space To Breath

When used right, adding space to a shot can work just as well as cropping in close. To find out why sometimes it's what you leave out of your images that makes them great, read our tutorial: How To Use Negative Space In Your Photos

 

7. Crop Out Objects

An easy way to remove objects that are at the edge of your frame is to use your zoom to crop them out. You can also use editing software such as Photoshop to crop your images and we have a detailed tutorial on how to use this tool here: Introduction To Photoshop's Crop Tool

If you find the distracting objects are too close to your subject to crop out, you could use the Clone Stamp Tool to remove them. You can also remove distracting backgrounds and replace them with plain ones in Photoshop, too.

 

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© Sigma

 

Sigma has released the 35mm F1.4 DG II | Art, a large-aperture wide-angle lens for full-frame cameras. This new evolution of the popular 35mm focal length focuses on delivering superior resolution while significantly reducing physical size and weight.

The lens uses a new optical construction consisting of 15 elements in 12 groups. This includes four high precision aspherical elements and two SLD glass elements to fix color fringing and distortions. To improve clarity in difficult lighting, Sigma introduced an Advanced Amorphous Coating (AAC) that minimizes ghosting and flare.

 

Key Features

• Enhanced Optics: 15 elements in 12 groups for edge to edge sharpness.
• Compact Design: 20% lighter and 14% shorter than the previous model.
• Advanced Coating: New AAC technology reduces reflections and flare.
• Fast Autofocus: Dual HLA motors provide quick and quiet focusing.
• Video Ready: Minimized focus breathing and a de-clickable aperture ring.
• Durability: Dust and splash resistant body with a water repellent front coating.

 

© Sigma

 

Price and Availability

The Sigma 35mm F1.4 DG II Art has a Suggested Retail Price (SRP) of £849. It will be available for purchase starting April 16, 2026. The lens is compatible with the following camera mounts:

• L-Mount
• Sony E-mount

For more information, please visit the Sigma website.

© Sigma

 

Sigma officially unveiled the 15mm F1.4 DC | Contemporary, a large-aperture wide-angle prime designed for APS-C mirrorless cameras. Set for a March 12, 2026 release, the lens achieved a rare balance of professional F1.4 brightness in a body approximately 50% lighter than its predecessor.

By utilizing a sophisticated optical path with FLD and SLD glass elements, Sigma refined the lens to a mere 220g and 64.8mm in length. This palm-sized footprint made it an ideal companion for gimbal work, travel photography, and high-quality video production.

 

Features

• Compact and lightweight: Measures just 64.8mm in length and weighs 220g (Sony E-mount version), making it approximately 30% shorter and 50% lighter than the Sigma 16mm F1.4 DC DN | Contemporary.
• Large F1.4 aperture: Delivers professional brightness and smooth circular bokeh, ideal for low-light shooting and creative depth of field.
• High optical performance: Incorporates FLD, SLD, and aspherical elements to ensure edge-to-edge sharpness and suppress sagittal coma flare, perfect for astrophotography and landscapes.
• Video-friendly design: Equipped with a quiet stepping motor for fast, precise autofocus and minimal focus breathing, enabling natural focus pulls.
• Durability: A dust and splash resistant build combined with a water and oil repellent front coating makes it reliable for outdoor use.
• Expanded lineup: Strengthens Sigma’s APS-C F1.4 DC series, now covering ultra-wide to mid-telephoto focal lengths for unrestricted creative expression.

 

© Sigma

 

Price and Availability

The 15mm F1.4 DC | Contemporary represented a high-value entry into Sigma’s expanding F1.4 lineup, which now spans from ultra-wide to mid-telephoto.

• Suggested Retail Price (SRP): £449
• Available Mounts: Sony E-mount, Canon RF Mount, and FUJIFILM X Mount
• Release Date: March 12, 2026

With this launch, Sigma reinforced the idea that APS-C users could achieve unrestricted creative expression without the typical bulk of large-aperture glass.

For more details, please visit the Sigma website. Read our full review of this lens here.

 

Flash can give images that extra bit of 'pop' they need and many cameras feature several flash modes for you to pick from so we're going to talk through the various modes available and how they work. 

 

Automatic

This is where the camera will use the flash when it detects low light levels. You don't have to tell the camera you want to use the flash, it will fire on its own.

  Flash On

This is when you tell the camera to fire the flash, regardless of the available light. It can be handy when shooting outdoors when there may be darker shadowed areas but generally the lighting is good.

  Flash Off

This turns the flash off completely. It's used when available light levels are sufficient or when shooting in areas where flash photography isn't allowed.

  Red-Eye Reduction

Red-eye is usually caused when shooting with a camera that has a built-in flash and it makes the eyes look like they have a demonic red glow. By using red-eye reduction, the flash fires several times just before the actual photo is taken. By doing this, the pupils contract and it is less likely you'll have red-eye appearing in the photograph. Do warn your subject before you fire the flash though as it can make them look like a startled deer in headlights if not.

 

Fill-In/Forced Flash

Fill-in Flash is weaker than regular flash but is strong enough to add light to darker areas of the image such as shadows. It's useful for situations when the subject needs illuminating but the background doesn't, such as the images here:

 

Slow Sync

Slow sync flash tells your camera to use a slow shutter speed and to fire the flash. This means your subject will be sharp but you'll still have some light in the background of your shot. In other words, it records the background and then illuminates the subject with flash to balance the exposure between the two areas. It's a good mode to use when shooting portraits at night although a tripod or steady support may be necessary to keep the background sharp.
 

Front Curtain Sync

This mode tells your camera to fire the flash at the start of the exposure then the shutter will remain open, continuing to record the ambient light.
 

Rear Curtain Sync

Rear-curtain sync tells your camera to fire the flash just before the photograph is finished exposing. This creates a long trail but a nice, crisp shot of your subject. Rear-curtain sync is great for adding impact to an action shot as when your subject moves through the scene they'll blur but the pop of flash at the end will leave them crisp and sharp.
 

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Contradictory to what you're told when you first pick up a camera, it is OK to have blur, and quite a lot of it, in your shots when you're photographing the right subject and want to emphasise speed or create a sense of motion. When we say it's OK we don't just mean a shot you accidentally took out of focus will pass off as something creative, you have to deliberately adjust your camera's settings or know how a quick twist of your lens will give you the blur that's needed to add a sense of action to your shot.

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1. How To Add Blur

The two ways we are going to look at are slowing down your shutter speed and using zoom blur (movement of your lens). The second can be a little harder to get a grasp of but after a few tries, it should become easier.

 

 

2. Shutter Speeds

If you've never shot action-style images before you may first think that a subject that's moving through your frame quick will need a quicker shutter speed to ensure you capture them as they move through your frame. You can do this but most of the time you'll just end up with a shot that freezes them in place and all sense of motion will be lost. However, there are a couple of exceptions to the rule such as a rally car or cyclist hurtling through a muddy puddle. As they move through the water, they'll more than likely cause spray to fly everywhere and a quick shutter speed will freeze the spray as it jumps up towards the sky, surrounding your subject. It's the spray here that helps emphasis the action and their pace so using a slower shutter speed will mean this excitement would be lost.
 

3. Slow Things Down

For times when there's no mud and water flying everywhere try slowing your shutter speed down to add some much-needed motion to the shot. How slow you have to go will depend on how fast your subject is moving, how much light is around etc. and the whole process can be a little unpredictable, however, it's worth sticking with and experimenting as you can get great results, some of which are surprising sometimes.
 

4. Balance

The hard bit can be trying to get the balance of blur and in-focus parts of the shot right. Most of the time a blurred background that has streaks running through it in the direction your subject is moving with a sharp subject sat against it is what you'll be looking for, however, if your subject is a little blurred it can emphasise motion and add further drama to your shot. Don't go too over the top with the blur though as they can just end up merging together which makes it hard for the eye to focus, meaning it's hard for the viewer to settle on one point of the image and it can make it look like you just took a bad shot.

 

 

5. Focus

For shots where you want your subject to be sharp, make sure you're focused on them as you follow them through the frame. A quick autofocus system will help ensure your shot is focused quickly and accurately. Trying to focus manually with fast-moving objects can be tricky, however, it can be done if you plan on pre-focusing on a spot, say on a particular bend on a track, you know your subject will have to pass through. Just remember to lock your focus after you've set it up and be ready to hit the shutter button at the right time.

Switching to continuous shooting mode which most cameras now feature will increase your chances of capturing the action when panning or pre-focusing on one spot. You'll need to start shooting just before your subject comes into frame though to ensure you don't miss a shot due to shutter lag. If you're panning make sure you keep the pan going even after your subject has left the frame and you've got your shot.
 

6. Flash

To brighten your subject so they pop from your frame and to freeze them in place while the background is blurred switch to slow sync flash which combines a slow shutter speed with a burst of flash. The slow shutter speed means the camera will blur the background and further subject movement. Depending on if you're using front or rear curtain will change when the flash is introduced, freezing your subject's movement at different points of the shot.

 

 

7. Zoom Blur

To really emphasise your sport and action shots, giving them a dynamic edge, try using zoom burst to create blur that you deliberately create by twisting the zoom on your lens as you take a shot.

As well as emphasising movement it can help make your subject, who's not blurred, 'pop' from the frame. A burst of light from a flashgun will help freeze your subject and add sharpness to the image.

On paper, it's a simple technique but it can take some time to actually master. You need a lens that will zoom and experimenting with different lens lengths will change the overall effect. Changing the starting point of the zoom and the length of time you zoom for and how quickly you move the lens will also change the final look of the shot. For action shots, it's best to use shorter exposures which you start while you're moving the lens. Starting zoomed out and pulling the zoom in during the exposure makes it easier to capture a sharp shot of your subject with the zoom blur surrounding them.

Adding a little bit of camera movement will adjust the pattern the zoom blur creates and can be used to direct the eye on a particular path through your shot.
 

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There is a definite desirability about a well-spaced range of compact, fast-aperture prime lenses that offer portability and a high level of optical excellence. Sigma has such a range, covering 12mm, this new 15mm, 23mm, 30mm and 56mm. As these are APS-C lenses, the “35mm equivalent” values are 18mm, 22.5mm, 35mm, 45mm and 85mm, at least in terms of what we might expect from their field of view. Available in Sony E, Fujifilm X and Canon RF mounts, these have enormous potential for both stills and video shooting. We have here the Canon RF version, and our exploration of its features and performance sees it mounted on the 24MP Canon R10 body. Let's see how it all pans out.

 

Canon RF 85mm f/1.4L VCM Handling and Features

The three mount options do have slightly different measurements, including a slightly less wide field of view for the Canon RF version, giving a “35mm equivalent” of 24mm as opposed to 22.5mm. This is because of the Canon 1.6x crop factor, as opposed to the more general 1.5x. The Canon RF lens has the usual control ring, whereas the Sony E and Fujifilm X versions both have an aperture ring.

Regardless of minor differences, the overall effect is the same in that the lens presents as a light and compact, well-made lens that balances very nicely on the Canon R10 body provided for this review. The lens weighs in at a very modest 240g (RF), 220g (E) or 225g (X). Dimensions are just 69.0mm x 62.8mm (RF), 64.0mm x 64.8mm (E) or 64.0mm x 65.1mm (X).

 

 

There is a supplied bayonet fit petal lens hood that clips positively into place. There is no retaining catch, nor is one needed. Within the bayonet fit for the hood is a conventional 58mm filter thread.

Controls on the lens are limited to just two rings. First up is the wide focusing ring. This is electronic and as smooth as silk. The second ring on the RF mount lens is a control ring, and this can be programmed to different functions. The choice of ISO setting was made for this review, but other options may be chosen. The AF system uses a high-speed stepping motor that is indeed fast, accurate and almost silent. Closest focus is 17.7cm (7.0 inches) for a maximum magnification of 1:7.9, or 0.12x. This is not as close as a macro lens, but close enough to provide exciting, dynamic compositions at distances significantly closer than a traditional lens would allow.

Optical construction is 13 elements in 11 groups, including 1 FLD, 3 SLD (Super Low Dispersion) and 3 Aspherical. FLD is a low dispersion element that uses fluorite-like glass, approaching the performance of fluorite but at an affordable level. The diaphragm consists of 9 blades, rounded to provide a rounded aperture.

 

 

The lens is dust and splash-resistant, so use in even harsh environments becomes possible. This has its limits, of course, and Sigma advises that this is not the same as waterproof. The front element is treated with coatings that repel dust, grease and moisture. We will all have our own “comfort level” when judging how much wetness can be tolerated, but in practice, this reviewer has found that weather-resistant lenses seem to survive moderate rain very well. Those that quote actual IP ratings are more specific, but we are not provided with that here.

It must be said that the new 15mm f/1.4 is a delight to handle. The focal length is wide enough to be dramatic and yet not so wide as to become a specialist lens. The degree of correction is very high, the sharpness crisp and beautiful and the general rendering (an aesthetic judgement) very attractive. There is so much to like, and not really anything significant to dislike.

 

Sigma 15mm f/1.4 DC Contemporary Performance

Central sharpness is very good at f/1.4, excellent from f/2 through to f/8 and very good at f/11 and f/16. The edges are very good from f/1.4 right through to f/11 and still good at f/16.

 

Sigma 15mm f/1.4 DC Contemporary MTF Charts Previous Next

How to read our MTF charts

The blue column represents readings from the centre of the picture frame at the various apertures and the green is from the edges.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Canon R10 body using Imatest. Want to know more about how we review lenses?

 

CA (Chromatic Aberration) is very well controlled throughout, and colour fringing is unlikely to be an issue.

Distortion is just -0.81% barrel, an impressively low figure. The slight residual barrel distortion is the right choice anyway, as that is what our eyes expect from wide-angle lenses. Pincushion distortion in a wide angle just tends to look wrong.

 

Sigma 15mm f/1.4 DC Contemporary Chromatic Aberration Charts Previous Next

How to read our CA charts

Chromatic aberration (CA) is the lens' inability to focus on the sensor or film all colours of visible light at the same point. Severe chromatic aberration gives a noticeable fringing or a halo effect around sharp edges within the picture. It can be cured in software.

Apochromatic lenses have special lens elements (aspheric, extra-low dispersion etc) to minimize the problem, hence they usually cost more.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Canon R10 body using Imatest.

 

Bokeh is a more aesthetic response and cannot be directly measured, but here we see good gradation in the out of focus areas. It will never be as smooth as a short telephoto lens might be, but nonetheless, it is very satisfactory.

Flare control is generally excellent, even with bright light sources in frame. It is possible to hit a spot where some flare becomes interesting, but almost all of the time, there is no flare to be found.

Vignetting is minimal, the actual figures being:

 

Aperture   f/1.4 -1.4 f/2 -1.2 f/2.8 -1.2 f/4 -1.2 f/5.6 -1.1 f/8 -1.1 f/11 -1.1 f/16 -1.1

 

Sigma 15mm f/1.4 DC Contemporary Sample Photos Previous Next

 

Sigma 15mm f/1.4 DC Contemporary Aperture range Previous Next

You can view additional images in the Equipment Database, where you can add your own reviews, photos and product ratings.

 

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Value For Money

The [AMUK]Sigma 15mm f/1.4 DC Contemporary|Sigma+15mm+f/1.4+DC+Contemporary[/AMUK] lens is priced at £449 - it is part of a group of f/1.4 primes:

• [AMUK]Sigma 12mm f/1.4 DC|Sigma+12mm+f/1.4+DC[/AMUK], £519
• [AMUK]Sigma 15mm f/1.4 DC|Sigma+15mm+f/1.4+DC[/AMUK], £449       
• [AMUK]Sigma 16mm f/1.4 DC DN|Sigma+16mm+f/1.4+DC+DN[/AMUK], £389 (Replaced by 15mm)
• [AMUK]Sigma 23mm f/1.4 DC|Sigma+23mm+f/1.4+DC[/AMUK], £479      
• [AMUK]Sigma 30mm f/1.4 DC DN|Sigma+30mm+f/1.4+DC+DN[/AMUK], £319
• [AMUK]Sigma 56mm f/1.4 DC DN|Sigma+56mm+f/1.4+DC+DN[/AMUK], £419

A very well-priced range that offers excellent VFM.

 

 

Sigma 15mm f/1.4 DC Contemporary Verdict

The new 15mm lens is 50% lighter, 30% shorter and has a reduced filter size from 67mm to 58mm, when compared to the 16mm f/1.4 lens that it replaces. The performance is still maintained. The handling is enhanced by the inclusion of a control ring/aperture ring. This all adds up to an excellent lens, especially suitable for street/reportage, landscape and astrophotography. It is, of course, designed for APS-C format crop sensor cameras. There is no built-in image stabilisation, but provided that the camera body has IBIS, this is not an issue.

In this Canon RF fit incarnation, it mimics the classic full-frame 24mm lenses, probably the most useful of the wide-angle lenses without becoming so wide as to make handling difficult. This is something that has evolved, as tastes have moved on from 35mm being a wide angle, to 28mm and then to 24mm, all in full frame terms.

Equally well, there has been a resurgence of compact prime lenses and these are often presented in small groups from ultra-wide to short telephoto, with very similar form factors and consistent balance that is so useful for videographers as well as stills photographers.

In summary, another fine new lens from Sigma that is Highly Recommended.

 

Sigma 15mm f/1.4 DC Contemporary Pros

• Excellent central sharpness
• Very good edge sharpness
• Low distortion
• Low CA
• Fast, accurate and virtually silent AF
• Dust and splash-resistant construction
• Low vignetting
• Low flare
• Excellent handling
• Light and compact

 

Sigma 15mm f/1.4 DC Contemporary Cons

• No IS

 

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  What Is It?

Looking at the Histogram on your camera can help you improve the overall exposure of your images and it’s a tool that’s available on most models. It’s a graph that represents the range of tones that are in the image you’ve taken so you can analyse the shot to make sure the exposure is correct before you move on to take a photo of something else. The left side of the graph shows the darker tones and the right the lightest.

You can set your camera to show a histogram at the same time you preview your shots, see your camera’s manual for more information on how to do this.

  Why Should I Use It?

Even though the histogram looks at the tonal range of your shot, it’s a quick way for you to see if your shot is really over or underexposed. If your shot’s underexposed it will look too dark while an overexposed will look a lot brighter than it needs to be and really light areas can look blown out as they lack detail.

  What Does It Mean?

If the graph is occupying mostly the left-hand side it means your image has more dark tones than light (underexposed) and if it’s shifted to the right, there are more lighter tones (overexposed) which means you could have really bright areas that look blown out.

A 'good' histogram that shows an even exposure will peak more towards the middle and get lower to either end.

Also, as a side note, when you playback your images there’s an option you can set that makes the highlighted areas ‘blink’ so you can pinpoint their exact location. Check your camera’s manual for the instructions on how to do this.

 

  When To Use It?

How often you check your histogram is up to you but generally, cameras are quite good at setting the exposure for most scenes. However, there are a few scenarios that can confuse your camera and these are the times it’s worth checking the histogram. For example, if you have a scene that varies drastically in tones so you have really bright areas as well as dark shadows.

The same goes for times when you’re using the same settings for a series of shots that you want the exposure to be the same for each. This could be taking a series of portraits that you’re going to combine into a multi-portrait that shows one person in several different locations in your shot. If the exposure isn’t the same in all the shots they won’t blend together seamlessly and it either won’t work or it’ll mean you have more post-production work to do.

There are times when the readings on the histogram would be right, your shot isn’t correctly exposed, however you may have done this on purpose so it can be ignored. When is this true? Well shooting a silhouette would give you a histogram that isn’t considered ‘correct’ likewise for a shot where the ground and sky are of a similar tonal range such as one a beach or when it snows.

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

Leading bag manufacturer Billingham launched a brand-new leisure range marking a deliberate shift from its traditional photographic bag collections.

The new range introduces three non-photographic bag designs, created with everyday versatility in mind while retaining the brand’s signature build quality and attention to detail. The collection is designed to appeal to customers looking for practical, stylish bags suitable for daily use, travel, and leisure.

The range comprises of two handbags and one tote bag, whose names have been inspired by the unsung heroes of the film set.

The three new styles are:

• Dolly Grip – Refined, functional and beautiful. This small handbag is designed for effortless everyday style.
• Key Grip – A perfectly balanced medium-sized handbag designed for everyday use.
• Best Boy Tote – A spacious statement-making tote, perfect for work, travel or everyday use.

Both the Dolly Grip and Key Grip will be available in four colour combinations:

• Khaki Canvas/Chocolate Leather
• Sage FibreNyte/Black Leather
• Black FibreNyte/Black Leather
• Burgundy Canvas/Black Leather

The Best Boy Tote will be offered in two colourways:

• Sage FibreNyte/Black Leather
• Black FibreNyte/Black Leather

Across all three designs, the range shares a consistent set of practical features, including a removable shoulder sling, multiple handy zip pockets, and an internal brass key loop, making each bag both functional and adaptable to different lifestyles.

The launch represents a notable evolution for the manufacturer, expanding its product offering beyond photographic use and into a broader leisure market, while continuing to design and manufacture from its factory in the West Midlands.

The new leisure range is now available online at www.billingham.co.uk and through a few selected retailers, with UK SRP (including VAT) as follows: Dolly Grip at £289.00, Key Grip at £359.00, and Best Boy Tote at £426.00.

Photo by cattyal

 

The most popular approach to flower photography is to include the whole flower but by getting in very close or by choosing a less conventional crop you can create a rather exciting image. Plus, it's a technique you can try all year round as you can just buy your flowers from the supermarket when there's none showing their heads in your garden.

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1. Work Near A Window 

A greenhouse is a great location for shooting close-ups of flowers as there's plenty of light, you're sheltered from the wind and if the windows are slightly dirty the light will be nicely diffused. If you don't have a greenhouse work indoors next to a set of patio doors or a large window and use a net curtain or muslin to diffuse the light.

 

2. Direction, Apertures & Focus 

Position your vase/flower pot so you can work directly above it then begin experimenting with different apertures and shooting distances to change the overall effect. Start with a nice wide aperture to minimise your depth of field and switch to manual focusing as you can get in closer than your camera thinks. Although, it’s not even really necessary to have any part of the image in focus as the flower colour and shape can produce attractive abstract swirls of soft colour.

If you don’t have the ability to get in close then try some creative cropping. The sweep of a single Lily petal or the shape of an Iris lend themselves to close crops.

  3. Multiple Exposures  If your camera has it, try experimenting with the Multiple Exposure Mode. This mode allows you to take several shots on the same 'frame' which the camera then combines to create one shot. Having the lens sharply focused then defocusing as you move from exposure to exposure will give you a soft, dreamy look to your photograph.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Competition Forum

 

A breathtaking black and white landscape shrouded in fog and mist has been awarded our Photo of the Week accolade.

Captured by mlseawell at Arches National Park in southern Utah, this atmospheric image titled "A Hidden Land" is the result of an early morning well spent. Rolling hills and distant mountain ridges peek through thick layers of mist, with the fog sitting heavy across the valley and giving just enough away to keep you looking. The further you look, the more the landscape seems to hold back, and that tension is what makes this image so compelling.

Shot in black and white, the image strips the scene back to its raw essentials, letting tone, texture and light do all the talking. It is the kind of photograph that reminds you why some early mornings are worth every effort.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we’ll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

 

When the sun's not coming out to play you have two choices: you can go home and twiddle your thumbs or you can stay out and make the most of what's on offer. If you choose the latter, here are a few photography projects you could have a go at.

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1. Beach / Coast

The coast has a completely different feel when not drenched in sunshine. The sea can merge with the horizon making it seem like it stretches on for miles and the dark shades and moody feel really suit a seaside resort that's out of season. Even more so if you have boarded up beach huts and empty amusement parks to sit against a dark, moody sky.
 

2. Buildings

Dull days give factories and old buildings more character as there are generally fewer shadows, you'll be able to pick detail out in chimneys that reach out into the sky and the gloomy day will further enhance the feel of the industry and in the case of a boarded-up building, abandonment.

   
3. Close-Ups

Bright days when the sun is high in the sky can be awkward as colours will be too harsh and you'll have deep, dark shadows. Whereas grey days, when there's plenty of clouds, is nature's way of giving you a giant softbox to work with. This weather's particularly good for photographing flowers and shrubs so get outside with a macro lens compact camera which features a Macro mode. You'll have to use a slightly slower shutter speed, though, so make sure you pack your tripod.
 

4. Reflections

Flat light can leave buildings looking a little boring but if you turn your eyes to water, their reflections in the ripples can produce a great abstract shot. The reflection on its own can make interesting, slightly surreal images and all you need to do is make sure there are some interesting shapes reflected in the water.
 

5. Go Mono

A shot that looks dull and boring in colour can be transformed into a great moody mono with a little help from Photoshop. Just make sure you have some strong shapes for your black and white conversion. Go a little further and add a bit of grain and a ragged border and your mono will be moodier than a teenager!

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Archie2022 (Day 20 - Waterfall Photography).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 15

Self Portraits

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Day 16

Vertical Lines

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Day 17

Photos With Vignettes

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  Day 18

People Shots

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Day 19

Park Photography

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Day 21

HDR Photography

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to dke (Day 4 - Flower Photography).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 1

Frost Photography

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Day 2

Commute Photography

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Day 3

Glass Photography

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  Day 5

Car Photography

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Day 6

Football Photography

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Day 7

Food Photography

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

   

The idea of movement isn't usually a thought that first springs to mind when you try to describe what a landscape shot is. However, when you start to think of popular landscape topics such as waterfalls, rivers, trees, clouds and the sea, you suddenly realise movement, which makes shots more dynamic, crops up more often than you think.

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Slowing your shutter speeds can create a sense of movement in your landscape shots. Just remember you'll need to use a smaller aperture to limit the amount of light that reaches your camera's sensor. If you don't, you'll end up with a shot that's overexposed. If you find your shots are still a little on the light side, fit an ND filter to further reduce the amount of light going through your lens. For shots where you want to exaggerate the power/strength of your subject or for shots that have people/vehicles moving or birds in-flight, you'll need quicker shutter speeds, a steady hand and good panning technique all of which we'll look at later on.

  1. Waves

For shots of waves crashing against cliffs and sea walls you'll need a quick-ish shutter speed, around 1/125 should help you capture the power on display. Just remember, unless you want a soaking, to keep yourself and your kit out of the wave's reach. Have a lens cloth handy and remember to wipe your kit down thoroughly once you're back home.

For shots where the waves turn into a mass of soft, blue and white blur use exposures which are 5 seconds or more. If it's a particularly bright day make sure you have an ND filter to-hand and use the smallest aperture and ISO possible. If you want the waves to have a little more shape to them use a slightly shorter exposure. How short you go will depend on the amount of shape you want and how choppy the sea is on the day so you may end up experimenting with a few different exposures before you land on the one that gives you the shot you're after.

 

 

2. Waterfalls

We've covered waterfalls in a previous article so here are just a few quick tips to get you started. For a more in-depth look, take a look at our previous technique: Shooting waterfalls.

• What shutter speed you use will be determined by how much blur you want, the focal length you're using and the amount of light available.
• Pick an overcast day when you're going to be using longer exposures. Your shot is less likely to have contrast problems too when there's a touch of cloud cover.
• An ND filter can help you extend your exposure times while a Polarising filter will reduce the amount of glare/reflection coming off the water.
• Turn the waterfall's movement into a mass of blur - 1/8 sec longer
• Faster shutter speeds will enhance the power/force of the waterfall, freezing the movement of the water as it cascades and splashes on rocks.
• Have a go at photographing water bubbles.

 

  3. Clouds

Cloud formations can appear and vanish again even before you've thought about taking a shot so if you do spot an interesting one make sure you snap it straight away. Keep an eye on your histogram to make sure your shot doesn't have areas which are overexposed and if the formation is really spectacular cut some of the foreground out, moving the horizon down so the sky fills more of your shot. Use slower shutter speeds to blur the movement of the clouds and look out for trails left by planes too as the crisscrossing lines can make an interesting abstract shot.

 

4. Birds and People

If you want to capture birds in-flight you'll need a quick shutter speed, continuous autofocus and a good panning technique. As soon as you see a bird come into shot lock your focus on it straight away and follow it through the frame, panning even after you've taken your shot. To freeze the movement you'll need to use a shutter speed around 1/500sec but if you want to blur the movement of their wings try something slower around 1/30sec.

When it comes to people, how fast your shutter speed is will depend on what they're doing. For example, someone who's water skiing will be moving a lot quicker than someone rowing across a lake.

For more tips on panning and capturing people moving take a look at our articles:

• Panning tips
• Capture motion
• Shutter speeds explained

      5. Trees

Leaves blowing in the wind are an obvious way to capture movement in a forest but for something artier, try creating a drag landscape. For tips on how to do this take a look at our articles:

• Drag landscapes
• Drag landscapes in the woods

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Competition Forum

 

As the sunset is still at a reasonably early hour at this time of year, make the most of it and have a go at twilight photography as you can capture some lovely pastel shades that contrast well against strong sunset shots. 

 

1. Timings Are Crucial 

To capture your twilight imagery you need to be set up and ready for when the sun starts setting, that way you'll be able to start taking your shots just as the sun falls below the horizon and continue until it goes dark. You'll notice that the colours in the sky will change from bright, sunset shades, through to a deep blue before turning black and it's that middle part where the sky takes on the dark blue shade that you want to try and shoot. Annoyingly, it can be the hardest part of twilight to capture images of but when you do, it does produce cracking shots. 

 

2. Gear Choices 

A camera that performs well in low light will help but really, any DSLR will be fine. You'll also need a tripod as exposure lengths will be long and working tripod-free will just result in shake spoiling your shots. You may also find a remote/cable release handy, plus pack a Grad ND filter if you're planning on capturing a few shots at the start when they can appear to be brighter than the land/subject in front of your lens.

Pack a zoom lens to give you plenty of shooting options and a torch/head torch should have a place in your bag to help your return journey when it'll be dark.

Remember to wrap up warm as temperatures can drop dramatically after the sun has set and you'll probably find a head torch useful, too. 

 

3. Plan Your Shot 

By arriving before the sun's actually set will give you the opportunity to take a good look around and actually think about the scene you are photographing. Play around with focal lengths, apertures etc. and try different compositions to see what will work best. Having previous knowledge of a fitting location where there's good foreground interest can help so make a note of locations you think are suitable for twilight photography when you see them.

 

4. Check Your Framing & Camera Set-Up

Once your camera's on a tripod, re-check the framing to make sure you're happy with it and remember to hook up your remote / cable release if using one. Try to stick to lower ISOs, although many cameras have a phenomenally high ISO range nowadays and can perform well at the higher end. However, when you're using lengthened shutter speeds, you shouldn't need to use higher ISOs.

When it comes to apertures, as you'll most likely be shooting a land or cityscape try f/8 and work from there to ensure you have good depth-of-field. Due to low light levels, autofocus may struggle so set it manually and lock focus once you're happy with the result.

Take a test shot but don't worry if it doesn't look too great yet; you're just making sure the framing etc. is OK. Once the sun has set, exposure times will run from a few seconds to start and up to or even over 30 seconds after 20-30 minutes or so. 

 

5. Work Fast 

As the light in the scene will change quickly, the key to this type of photography is to keep taking photos; adjusting the exposure length as you do to capture as many different results as possible. You'll probably have to work faster than you expected but if you hit the right moment, it's well worth it. 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Be it a Sunday lunch you've cooked at home, a selection of groceries found on a stall or a collection of spices you've taken out of your kitchen pantry, food is something that's easily accessible which makes it a great subject for photographers. You can create still life pieces, get creative with props or just really focus in on the food item itself. Don't be afraid to experiment and remember to upload your fab food shots to the ePHOTOzine gallery or the competition forum to win top prizes.

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To get you thinking about food as a photographic subject, we've brought our food photography related pieces together so you can brush-up on your technique before raiding the fridge for interesting food items worth photographing.

  1. Food Photography: Top Tips For Instagram Food Photography Likes

 

Helge Kirchberger and 2-star Michelin-chef Jörg Bruch, with the help of the COOPH team, take you back to basics to show you how subtle changes can make all the difference in your food photos.

 

2. Seven Top Creative Ways To Use Coffee In Your Photos

 

You can eat coffee beans so we're rolling with this one! Coffee might be a lovely drink that powers you through the day but when the weather's a bit grey outside, it can also keep you warm indoors as you can focus your lens on beans and grains rather than fighting the chill outdoors. 

 

3. How To Take Awesome Travel Food Photography Shots

 

Instead of just capturing shots of family members in pools and on the beach, why not turn your attention to food photography and capture some mouth-watering images of the plates you're served and stalls you pass on trips. 

 

4. Serve Up Beautiful Food Photography With The Help Of Hugh Johnson

© Hugh Johnson

If you're one of the many astronomic photography fans who enjoy sharing the culinary delights online, you'll probably be interested in perusing this article with tips from renowned food photographer Hugh Johnson.  

 

5. Man Vs Food: The Difference Between Photographing People & Plates

 

Although my university training prepared me for portraits, still lifes, landscapes and anything else you can imagine, I’ve definitely noticed an increasing emphasis on food photography and have adapted and expanded my skills to capture Cuban sandwiches, crab Benedicts and vibrant vegetable platters. While many of the skills necessary for attractive human portraiture applies to food, there are also some key differences we’ll explore here. 

 

6. Food Photography Basics For Smartphone Photographers

 

Taking good food photos isn't as hard as you may think. In fact, with the right light and a few homemade accessories, even your smartphone can help you capture images that look good enough to eat.

 

7. Ten Top Tips For Taking Better Photos Of Food

 

Here we share 10 basic but essential tips to help you capture better photos of the food on your plate. If you're at a restaurant, generally, you'll find food is well presented so you don't have to worry about playing the role of a food technician, however at home, it's a different story. 

 

8. Food Photography Lighting Tips From Taylor Mathis

 

You don't need expensive lighting gear to take beautiful pictures of your food. Using the powers of the sun, you can create captivating and mouthwatering images.

 

9. Jamie Oliver And David Loftus' Food Photography Tips

 

Photographing food is a trend that has swept across social media sites over the past year, and the topic is a firm favourite with bloggers all over Europe, so how can you get the most out of your DSLR to make your food photos look good enough to eat, and impress your food-loving friends?

 

10. Creative Fruit Photography Tips & Tricks

 

Photographer Markus Pettersson has captured a series of vibrant still life images with his Hasselblad H5D-40 and he's put a pretty awesome tutorial together on how you can capture similar shots

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Competition Forum

Image without HDR

 

When shooting HDR (High Dynamic Range) images there are two ways you can produce them. The first is in-camera with a built-in mode and the second is manually where the photographer produces various bracketed exposures and combines them in software once back in front of their computer. This isn't a technique just for advanced camera users either as you can also do HDR with images from compact digital cameras so long as you can control the exposure.

But before we look at 'how', we need to look at 'why' this feature is useful for photographers.
 

Why HDR?

A photographer could choose to shoot HDR images just to be a little more creative or because the scene they are trying to capture won't look at its best without it.

What we mean by this is the camera's sensor doesn't see how we do so if you meter for the brighter areas of the scene then chances are you'll lose some shadow detail. Do the opposite and highlights can end up looking 'blown out'. However, by working with a built-in HDR mode or shooting an HDR image manually you'll be capturing a series of exposures, known as a bracket, that will be combined into one image that has a better dynamic range (highlights and shadow detail). 
 

HDR In-Camera

Select cameras feature a built-in HDR mode which does the work for you. This captures a wide range of tones, from shadows to highlights to produce an image with a more balanced exposure. Take a look at your camera's manual to see if your model has this function built-in. Using an HDR mode can make a big difference to your images with more detail and colour becoming visible.

 

 

HDR Image

 

HDR Manually

When shooting, it’s vital that you keep the camera as still as possible between each of the shots, so as to produce identical images. This makes the blending process much easier. Mounting your camera on a tripod is the simplest way to ensure your shots stay lined-up. It'll also help if you use a cable or remote release so you don't have to touch the camera when starting an exposure. If you don't have one, use your camera's built-in self-timer.

Try to avoid adjusting your zoom between shots too as it'll be a pain trying to line them back up again and once you have your focus point, switch to manual focus (if not using it already) so the camera doesn't refocus after taking your first shot. You may want to lock the focus and switch to manual exposure to help ensure everything remains consistent throughout. It's also worth switching to aperture priority mode as this will ensure that the aperture doesn't change from shot-to-shot. 

Most cameras will have an auto-bracketing feature which makes the photographers job slightly easier as all they have to do is pick the increments the exposures are going to differ by and the camera sorts the rest. If you've checked your camera's manual and this feature isn't offered, you can use exposure compensation and bracket manually. 

Three images, at two stop intervals, should produce good results but this will depend on the contrast range in the scene you're capturing. Taking between 3 - 7 shots are common for this type of photography so do take the time to access the scene to see how many shots will produce the best result for you. Use zero as your base exposure then take your +2 and - 2 exposures and check the results. It's worth checking your camera's histogram when setting your base exposure to ensure the highlights and shadows aren't clipped. Take a look at our article on using histograms on your camera for more information on this. 

Once you have a set of images that cover the scene's full contrast range you can open the exposures on your computer in an HDR software program, various are available and bring them together in one image. Adjustments can be made to the image to produce a more accurate representation of the scene or you can go for a hyper-real shot where elements are over-cooked. Do take care with this, though, as not all scenes will work with the latter.
 

When To Use HDR

HDR won't work for every situation, you need to judge if it's needed. For example, If you have a landscape scene that's evenly exposed and well-lit you won't need to use HDR. However, if you have a scene where the camera can't handle all the different exposure levels present, HDR can help you capture a more balanced exposure. having said that, it's worth using a longer exposure before reaching for the HDR controls to see if it'll give you the sharpness and detail you're after.

You can always take a few test shots, paying particular attention to shadow areas, to see if any detail is lost before working on your HDR image.

As mentioned, do take care in post-production too as a strong HDR effect won't work for everything. Go for subtle then add more if you think the image needs it. 
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

                                                                                                                           

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When we stretch the concept of the superzoom full frame lens from 28-200mm, we end up with this fine looking Tamron 25-200mm. This is a significant advantage for those who require a wider field of view, whilst maintaining a very useful 200mm at the telephoto end. This is the 2nd Generation version of this lens. It looks good, balances well with the 42MP Sony A7R III used in this review, and the focal length range seems ideal for general purpose shooting, wildlife, landscapes and travel. The wide f/2.8 aperture at the 25mm end also bodes well for use in low light. Let's see if the lens lives up to its potential, both in the studio tests as well as the great outdoors.

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Handling and Features

Weighing in at a modest 575g and measuring just 121.5mm x 76.2mm, the moisture sealed body sits well on the Sony A7R III. If we start our tour of the lens at the front, we have a provided petal lens hood that bayonets smoothly into place, with a positive click stop that ensures it stays put with no need for a retaining catch. Within the bayonet fitting is a conventional 67mm filter thread. Most of the Tamron mirrorless lenses utilise the same filter thread, useful in avoiding having to stock several sizes of filter or lens cap. The hood will be most efficient at 25mm, whilst avoiding any vignetting, and less so as we move towards the telephoto settings, but this cannot be helped, and it also has the very useful function of protecting the front of the lens against knocks. Regardless of flare reduction, there is a strong case for always using a lens hood.

 

 

There is a wide, easy to grip, zoom ring that is clearly marked with accurate settings of 25mm, 35mm, 50mm, 70mm, 100mm, 135mm and 200mm. The ring is smooth in operation and does extend the lens barrel, so there is some mass of lens to move. It will never be electronic-smooth as a consequence, but it is definitely well damped, a cut above the norm. A lock switch is provided just behind the ring but the lens showed little sign of extending whilst being carried. There is also an AF lock button at the opposite side of the barrel at the same point.

The final ring is slimmer, is electronic and is used for manual focus. All the usual Sony focus options are supported and these are selected via the camera menu.

Focusing is down to 0.16m (6.3”) at 25mm, for a maximum magnification of 1:1.9. or around half life size. At 200mm this becomes 0.8m (31.5”), for a maximum magnification of 1:3.9, or around one quarter life size. Whilst most current macro lenses focus to 1:1, this zoom lens focuses as close as vintage half life size macros traditionally would be expected to do. This is very useful and confirms the universal applications that it is aimed at.

 

 

Optical construction is 18 elements in 14 groups, coated using Tamron's BBAR-G2, the second generation of their Broad Band Anti-reflection coatings. The front element also has a Fluorine treatment to help repel dirt, grease and moisture. A series of internal seals completes the moisture resistant construction. The diaphragm comprises 9 blades and results is a nicely rounded aperture. This raises our expectation of some ultra smooth bokeh.

Last but certainly not least is a USB-C socket, used for connection to a smartphone and also on the PC version for updating the lens software. Tamron Lens Utility Software enables various control functions. Usefully, the AF lock button can also be programmed via this route to toggle between AF and MF.

In use, the lens behaves impeccably. AF via the VXD (Voice coil eXtreme-torque Drive) voice coil motor is fast, accurate and virtually silent. With the Sony body even focusing between bars of a cage is possible much of the time, something that many cameras and lenses can be totally defeated by. For universal use when travelling, this lens is just so versatile and so easy to use that it should cover almost every conceivable eventuality.

Now let's see how well things hold up in the technical tests.

 

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Performance

Sharpness is looked at first, and the images in general look crisp, colourful and have plenty of contrast. They look good, and for most users that totally fulfils what they might expect.

At 25mm, central sharpness is very good at f/2.8 and f/4, rising to excellent from f/5.6 all the way through to f/16. The edges are consistently very good all through the range, from f/2.8 to f/16.

At 70mm, central sharpness is very good from f/4.5 right through to f/16, just dropping to good at f/22. The edges are good at f/4.5, very good from f/5.6 to f/16 and good at f/22.

At 140mm, central sharpness is fair from f/5.6 to f/11, good at f/16 and f/22 and fair at f/32. The edges are fair right through the range from f/5.6 to f/32.

As with many wide range zoom lenses, the longest focal lengths drop off in sharpness, but the Tamron, given a small amount of Photoshop sharpening still delivers great looking nature shots even at 200mm and f/5.6. This is always the dilemma – some lenses are able to deliver the goods in the field but are not really designed for the closer distances of lens testing charts.

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 MTF Charts Previous Next

How to read our MTF charts

The blue column represents readings from the centre of the picture frame at the various apertures and the green is from the edges.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Sony A7R III body using Imatest. Want to know more about how we review lenses?

 

CA (Chromatic Aberration) is very impressively under control throughout the range and further correction in software is unlikely to be necessary.

Distortion measures just -0.81% barrel at 25mm, +0.10% pincushion at 70mm and +0.12% pincushion at 140mm. This renders the lens suitable for copying and for architectural shots and is again very impressive, particularly so in a zoom lens.

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Chromatic Aberration Charts Previous Next

How to read our CA charts

Chromatic aberration (CA) is the lens' inability to focus on the sensor or film all colours of visible light at the same point. Severe chromatic aberration gives a noticeable fringing or a halo effect around sharp edges within the picture. It can be cured in software.

Apochromatic lenses have special lens elements (aspheric, extra-low dispersion etc) to minimize the problem, hence they usually cost more.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Sony A7R III body using Imatest.

 

Bokeh is the smoothness of gradation in the out of focus areas in an image. This is an aesthetic judgement rather than a measurement, but we know attractive bokeh when we see it. Here we find really very beautiful, smooth out of focus backgrounds, relaxed and natural with not a trace of raggedness. 

The flare performance is also excellent, clearly the design, internal baffling and coatings are all combining to do an excellent job of suppressing internal reflections. 

Vignetting is very well controlled.

 

Aperture 25mm 70mm 140mm f/2.8 -1.8     f/4 -1.4   f/4.5   -1.1   f/5.6 -1.3 -1.1 -0.7 f/8 -1.3 -1 -0.6 f/11 -1.2 -1 -0.6 f/16 -1.2 -1 -0.5 f/22   -0.9 -0.4 f/32     -0.3

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Sample Photos Previous Next

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Aperture range Previous Next

You can view additional images in the Equipment Database, where you can add your own reviews, photos and product ratings.

 

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Value For Money

The [AMUK]Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2|Tamron+25-200mm+f/2.8-5.6+Di+III+VXD+G2[/AMUK] lens is priced at £729.

There are no obvious alternatives that match the exact specification, but even looking at the lens in isolation, it looks terrific value for money.

 

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Verdict

The original 28-200mm lenses were a revelation in their day, offering incredible versatility and probably focusing closer than most alternatives as well. Quality and fine detail may have been less on the optical engineers' minds, as the technology of the day did have its limitations. Fast forward to today, though, and we can now see extended ranges such as this very fine 25-200mm from Tamron. Sharper, faster focusing, closer focusing and even more versatile at a very reasonable price point. What's not to like?

As with all lenses, it's important to understand what they are designed for, what they will do well and what they are not best suited for. This lens is a fantastic travel companion, with a wider than average field of view, focusing closer than most and with a fast, bright f/2.8 aperture. Tonal quality is excellent and images have punch and impact. At the longest focal lengths sharpness does fall off, as is almost always the case, but the lens still delivers sharp, punchy images well suited to wildlife, nature and portraiture.

In summary, a very fine lens that delivers very satisfying results and handles with consummate ease, all at a price that is impressively keen. Highly recommended.

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Pros

• Good to excellent sharpness
• Minimal distortion
• Fast, accurate and virtually silent AF
• Excellent flare resistance
• CA well controlled
• Versatile extended zoom range
• Moisture and dust sealing
• Magnification 1:1.9 at 25mm
• Modest vignetting
• Beautiful bokeh
• Affordable pricing

 

Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 Cons

• Loses fine detail at longest focal lengths

 

[REVIEW_FOOTER]R_features=4.5|R_handling=5|R_performance=4.5|R_value=5|R_overall=4.5|A_level=4.5|A_text=Highly recommended – Punchy results from this easy to use and universally useful lens, all at a very keen price.|E_id=8027[/REVIEW_FOOTER]

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