DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY NEWS FROM ePHOTOzine

 

Photographing birds of prey in the wild isn't something that's easy to do, however as the UK is home to some excellent birds of prey centres where photographers have the opportunity to shoot up close with these majestic birds when armed with the right kit and technique. 

At centres, the birds are trained to fly close to visitors which gives photographers, with a bit of patience, the chance to capture images of birds of prey in flight as well as photos of other natural behaviour they demonstrate.
 

1. What Gear Will I Need? 

Thanks to the close range, photographers can generally capture shots of larger birds of prey with shorter lenses, however, for shots of birds in flight, you'll need a lens that has a longer reach.

For portraits, use a tripod but when in flight you may find this kind of support doesn't give you the fluidity of movement you need. Plus, these centres are popular locations and you can find yourself in a crowd where tripods won't be a welcomed feature. If you do have room for a tripod, put a ball head on it as this will allow you to adjust the position of the camera quicker and easier. A pistol grip could also be useful as they are ideal for pursuing and capturing fast-moving subjects.

Some places have hides which offer enough space for tripods so you won't be fighting for elbow room. 

 

2. Make Sure You Follow The Centre's Rules

Centres have different rules when it comes to displays. Some allow you to move around while others don't so do check before you start taking your images. It's important to pick a good shooting spot before the display begins so do have a scout around the location well before the scheduled start time.

 

 

3. Capturing Shots Of Birds In Flight

Photographers with fast prime lenses are at an advantage with this but this doesn't mean you shouldn't try if you have a different piece of kit. It can be a little hit and miss and will take some perseverance to get right but there are a few things you can do to increase your chances of capturing a good shot.

Birds tend to take off and land into the wind so if you can position yourself so the wind is blowing from behind you, chances are you'll be able to capture a head-on shot of your subject in flight.

It's also worth manually focusing on a spot you know the birds will fly through/into as with some practice, this should improve your chances of capturing a good shot.

A bird flying across you is easier to track the path of than one flying towards you as you can pan with its movement and its path won't change as quickly. Continuous shooting will increase the chances of you capturing a shot with the bird in-frame, but depending on your camera autofocusing may struggle. 

Aiming to capture a shot just before a bird lands tends to be a little easier, as Linda Wright explained in a previous article: "Birds stall just before they land – slowing almost to a stop and spreading their wings wide – so this is a good moment to aim for and easy to predict."

Do remember that each subject flies at a different speed and often has different characteristics of flight. Understanding this will help you improve and modify your technique accordingly.

For more tips on capturing shots of birds in flight, take a look at this article: Photographing Birds In Flight

 

4. Master Your Shutter Speeds

When it comes to shutter speeds, faster is good, although slower speeds can result in some interesting blurring of wings if you want to take a more artistic approach.

Check your exposure, taking a reading from roughly where you'll be aiming before the action begins can help, and go for a higher ISO rather than risking a wider aperture if you find light levels to be too low. 

 

 

5. Check The Position Of The Sun

Note where the sun is for when you're shooting with your lens towards the sky as you don't want to pan and find it's shining down your lens. It's dangerous to look directly at the sun and can be very painful so do take care. 

 

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This is something everyone can have a go it. It doesn't matter if you live in a mansion or a flat or usually shoot landscapes or portraits as this will give you the chance to think out of the box a little and really help you improve your photography.

Of course, if you live on the coast or in the Highlands or Lakes, you have got it slightly easier than some. But there are pictures to be captured everywhere, you just have to get out there and find them!

If you really don't fancy shooting near your home pick a location you love or know well and see how only having a few meters to work in will make you think differently.

  Gear Suggestions

 

If you're not travelling far you can set out your full array of lenses on your side and return to pick up what you need although your standard zoom will do a perfectly good job.

If you do have a variety of lenses to pick from your macro lens will be good for giving the ordinary a unique twist while a longer telephoto will get you close to birds in the garden without having to be sat on the branch next to them. If you're out in the garden you may need a tripod when using a longer lens but otherwise working hand-held will be fine.

 

What To Shoot?

 

Look at everyday objects differently. See how a fork, TV remote or even a shoelace look close up through a macro lens. Or try setting yourself a little challenge: shoot household objects, certain packets or how about items beginning with a particular letter or number? Try shooting candids of neighbours or how about limiting the number of pictures you take?

You can go on a mini safari in your garden, photograph birds from your window or shoot the flowers that are now decorating our beds. Have a go at photographing micro landscapes on dull days or how about capturing raindrops as they fall down your windows or land on plants? If you don't mind early starts, you can shoot some photos of morning dew or spend some time with your pets, photographing their antics.

 

As the months warm-up you'll be able to spot Ladybirds to photograph but while the weather's still chilly, why not stay indoors and shoot some still life work: kitchen utensils, cutlery and food.
 

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    We've spoken before on how lines are great tools for guiding the eye through an image but don't think these have to always be horizontal or vertical as quite often, diagonal lines can add more interest and depth, guiding the eye across the image.
  1. Where Should I Look For Them? 

Rivers, walls and cracks in the ice are just three examples of how you can create diagonals within your landscape shots. Just remember you may have to alter the angle, height or position you're working at to see these natural elements take on the shape you need.

 

2. Use Diagonal Lines As A Guide

The eye often looks at the bottom left of an image first before working across the shot to the top right corner so by having a line which follows this path, intercepting interesting elements as it goes will unknowingly guide the viewer through your shot. They're particularly useful in shots where you have lots and lots of different elements that without a 'guide' would just look chaotic and the eye wouldn't know what to look at first. Try using multiple diagonals to guide the eye to one spot in the image by intersecting them where you want the attention to fall.

 

 

3. Don't Split Your Shot Into Two

If you position your diagonal so it flows from one corner to another your shot can look like it's split in two and won't work right compositionally. Instead, try shifting the line up slightly so it starts just above the bottom corner instead.

 

4. How Many Are Too Many?

Don't get too carried away using too many diagonals as your shot will just end up looking busy and the eye won't know where to focus. However, a few repetitive lines such as those left by a tractor in a field or the shapes left in the sand by the wind can work well as abstract landscape shots. Just shoot from a higher viewpoint and use a longer focal length with a smaller aperture to maximise depth of field. At the coast, try photographing footprints left in wet sand or the patterns left by the tide as it moves down the beach.

 

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Fish Eyes by Sophia Spurgin

 

Winner of the 2026 London Camera Exchange Photographer of the Year, Sophia Spurgin, has  today collected a Canon RF 400mm prime lens from the LCE team at their Strand, London store.  Sophia beat 14,500 entrants to take top honour in this year’s competition with her stunning image  ‘Fish Eyes’ captured on a trip to Vietnam on a Canon EOS R5 Mark II camera. 

A retired teacher from Hertfordshire, Sophia is  a keen outdoor photographer, and the Canon RF 400mm F2.8L IS USM was top of her wish list. A super-telephoto model offering a fast f/2.8 aperture, exceptional portability and optical IS, the RF 400mm is an outstanding low-light performer, perfect for wildlife, sports and action photography. The much sought after lens is rarely in stock at UK retailers and required shipping directly from Canon in Japan.

Sophia Spurgin commented, “I’ve never owned a lens of such quality and wanted to mark my win  with something significant. I had never considered prime lenses previously, but now I’ve been able  to obtain this incredible equipment thanks to LCE. I’m looking forward to testing it out during my  travels this year.” 

 

Sophia Spurgin, LCE Photographer of the Year 2026 overall winner, holds her grand prize, the Canon RF 400mm f2.8L IS USM lens. © London Camera Exchange

 

LCE POTY comprises 14 different categories including the publicly voted ‘People’s Choice’ and  ‘Emerging Talent’ dedicated to photography students. Sophia was shortlisted in three categories  and was crowned winner of both the Travel category with ‘Fish Eyes’ and Wildlife category with 

‘Fighting Foxes in the Rain’ – as well as taking first place in the overall competition. She scooped a  total of £3,500 in LCE vouchers, to spend on equipment of her choice. 

Lee Harasyn, managing director of LCE, commented, “We’re thrilled that Sophia has been able to  acquire her dream lens as a result of winning LCE Photographer of the Year 2026, and can take  the next step up in her hugely successful photographic journey. We hope she’ll inspire others to  enter the competition next year and we can’t wait to see the images she’ll capture with this  fantastic piece of kit.” 

The LCE POTY 2026 Awards were presented in a ceremony at The Photography & Video Show at  the NEC, Birmingham. A gallery showcasing the finalists’ images was located close to the show’s  entrance and many of the shortlisted images were included in a special edition commemorative  book. Winners received a share of the £10,000 prize fund and a unique trophy to take home. There  are plans to tour the images at other locations around the UK this year. 

For more information, please visit the LCE POTY website.

 

About London Camera Exchange 

Founded in Guildford in 1956, London Camera Exchange is an employee-owned business and is  celebrating its 70th anniversary in 2026. With 26 high street stores nationwide, the company  delivers award-winning service and impartial expert advice. LCE stocks an extensive range of  cameras, lenses and optical gear from top brands – and is the go-to destination for trading in or  upgrading photographic equipment. Whether visiting in-store or online, LCE’s dedicated team is  always on hand to help customers capture their next great shot.

 

A mountain landscape that showcases the scale and texture of the Canadian Rockies has earned our Photo of the Week award.

Three Sisters by Jasper87 captures a snow-laden scene where the three peaks dominate the horizon. The tall evergreens sit in front of the mountains while the frosted branches of the trees on either side provide a fine texture throughout the scene. There is a great sense of balance in the image as the light shows the jagged surfaces of the rock and the heavy clouds gathering around the summits.

The detail in the icy branches adds a layer of depth that guides you toward the peaks. Small patches of blue sky break through the cloud cover to add variety to the palette of white and grey tones. This shot captures the quiet power of a mountain setting and serves as a wonderful example of landscape photography.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we’ll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

Make the most of the flowers currently in bloom and have a go at a bit of creative flower photography. Below you'll find links to flower photography tutorials with advice on using macro lenses, dealing with messy backgrounds, working on a budget and for when the weather turns, tips on photographing flowers indoors. Each feature also has a picture-perfect flower shot next to it for inspiration - enjoy!  

 

1. Backlighting Flowers For Photography

 

2. Four Ways To Shoot More 'Arty' Themed Flower Images

 

3. Flowers - An Alternative Approach

 

4. Six Outdoor Flower Photography Tips Every Compact User Needs

 

5. 3 Top Tips To Improve Bluebell Photography

 

6. Abstract Flower Photography Tips

 

 

7. 10 Top Tips On Photographing Daffodils

 

8. Take Better Photos Of Public Gardens With These 5 Tips

 

 

9. Eight Techniques To Improve Your Garden Photos

 

10. 4 Essential Tips On Photographing Snowdrops

 

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Excire’s product range comprises AI-powered photo and video management software. Excire Foto 2025 is a really powerful standalone asset management software for Mac and Windows. It doesn’t have any editing capabilities, but it can manage and organise a large photo collection very efficiently. We tested it recently and you can check out that review here.

You won’t be surprised to learn that Excire Search 2026 has a similar feature set with excellent AI-driven image management skills, but it works differently having an intimate relationship with Adobe Lightroom Classic. So, for example, perform a search in Excire and the results are shown as a Lightroom Collection, which means you can then rate, select and delete as normal. It’s also worth mentioning that the Excire apps work locally so there’s no risk when it comes to privacy.

 

The Excire Search Panel shows as a separate window when Adobe Lightroom Classic is opened. The single image on view in Search 2026 is the one active in the Lightroom’s Library module and if it needs initialising a warning note shows.

 

Quick Verdict

Excire Search 2026 at £199 / $229 is a significant investment and whether it’s worth the cash is largely dependent on what you shoot and how you like to work. You could argue that Excire’s face and people search skills plus AI culling has more potential for productive people and social photographers than scenic shooters. 

What you shoot is one thing but so is how much you shoot. Frugal shooters probably have less to gain than those who are more trigger happy.

My photography covers a diverse range of subject matter and I shoot a healthy number of frames whenever I go out which makes keeping up with tasks such as keywording and image culling a challenge. Furthermore, while my workflow is reasonably well organised, finding a particular picture can be time-consuming. 

While I am relatively new to Excire Search 2026, using it for this review, I found it to be a very useful image management solution. Excire’s face search, people search and AI keywording tools are very powerful and I particularly enjoyed its Search by Text Prompt skills. Speed is also a virtue even working with large Lightroom catalogues.

 

+ Pros

• One-time purchase
• Easy to use
• Excire runs locally
• Search by Text Prompt is clever
• Face and people search
• Auto keywording works well especially with people photos and is a huge time saver
• Keywords and aesthetic ratings can be automatically transferred to Lightroom
• AI assisted culling 
• Some search tools work with videos

- Cons

• It costs £199 / $229 but that is for a lifetime licence
• Initialisation takes a while with large image collections, but it is a one-off process
• Auto aesthetic rating has limited appeal 
• Limited to single image view
• Auto keywording is less effective with scenes and locations but it still works

 

 

For photographers relying on Adobe Lightroom Classic as their workflow mainstay, Excire Search 2026 is a fully compatible plug-in and brings several great features to the party. Notably, powerful search tools and auto keywording which Lightroom Classic lacks. If you use another editing or workflow app, the standalone Excire Foto 2025 is the app for you. The two apps use the same AI technology so both perform to a high level and have broadly similar search features.

Both apps are available for outright purchase, costing £199 / $229 each or the bundle of the two is available for £299 / $329 instead of £398 / $458. Both are available on a free 14-day trial and there’s no subscription option.

 

The Excire Search 2026 interface is very simple. Across the top are various view controls including Highlight Faces while on the right are the apps’ search and culling tools in Lightroom. During searches a progress bar shows in Lightroom and the results appear in a Lightroom Collection.

 

Excire Search 2026 Getting started

Once installed, open Adobe Lightroom Classic and you can have the Excire Search panel appear as a separate window automatically, by using the drop-down menu (Library>Plug-in Extras>Open Excire Search Panel) or use quick keys Alt+X (Windows) / Option+X (Mac).

How you work with Search 2026 and Lightroom together is a personal decision and depends on your screen set-up. For single screen users, you can have the two apps side by side with the Lightroom side panels closed to save space. This works well especially during culling where you can view and check image sequences conveniently. When you’re not using Excire, hit the up arrow in the bottom right of the panel and it’ll close to an unobtrusive floating strip. If you have a dual monitor system, you can have Excire running on one and Lightroom on the other.

In Lightroom’s Library module (Excire doesn’t work with other modules), click on an image and it will appear in the Excire Search Panel. Using the left and right arrow keys, it’s possible to advance through images with each image taking less than a second to appear, so it’s respectably fast. However, it’s not possible to rate or star images through Excire.

There’s a selection of viewing tools ranged across the top of the interface so you can magnify images and pick out faces, and on the right side are the various search and culling tools. We will dig deeper into these features later in this review.

 

On a single monitor set-up, having Lightroom and the Excire Search Panel sitting side by side is a good way of working. Here you can see the focus check feature working. The green boxes tell you focus is good with yellow and then red indicating a sharpness problem.

 

Excire Search 2026 key features

• Photo and video asset management app, no editing capabilities
• Excire Search Panel
• Only available with a lifetime licence, no subscription option
• Runs locally
• Range of search tools: Text Prompt, People, Face, Keyword, Aesthetic, Similarity, Duplicate Search
• Auto keywording
• Auto focus checking
• Recognises faces, objects, colours, emotions, abstract concept and famous landmarks
• AI-assisted culling 
• AI Aesthetic scores
• Supports Raw and JPEGs
• Available for Mac and Windows
• £199 / $229
• 14-day free trial version available
• excire.com

 

Initialisation is the process of Search 2026 analyzing images so its search functions work. Keywords and aesthetic scores are also generated, and these can be transferred automatically to Lightroom.

 

Excire Search 2026 Initialisation

Clearly, to start with, none of your images are initialised and that’s the first step. Do this in Lightroom by going to Library>Plug-in Extras>Initialise Photos. The process means images are analyzed to enable Excire’s search tools, plus images are automatically keyworded and given an aesthetic score, and you can choose to have these automatically transferred to Lightroom. Or you can do it manually afterwards.

In Excire’s Foto 2025 app, before initialisation, you have to choose where the Excire database sits. In Search 2026, there is no need for that as the database is stored in the same folder as the Lightroom catalogue.

The initialisation process takes time. For reference, a Mac Studio M2 Max with 32GB RAM running Tahoe 26.3.1 was used for this review. 

I started by initialising an existing Lightroom catalogue of 40,167 images and the whole process took just over five hours. If you’re working with larger Lightroom catalogues, it makes sense to run the process overnight and that’s what I did with my largest Lightroom catalogue, which comprises 127,232 images. While the process of initialisation takes time, you only have to do it once, so in that context it’s not an issue. 

Furthermore, once you’ve caught up and existing catalogues have been initialised, keeping the Excire database up to date is not too time-consuming. For example, a portrait shoot comprising over 3074 images - Raws and JPEGs, so 6148 files in total - took a little over 17 minutes to initialise.

 

A Search by Text Prompt using the word ‘bridges’ found bridges, details of bridges and piers. The search took around 15 seconds.

 

Excire Search 2026 Search tools

Search 2026 has an impressive line-up of search tools: Text Prompt, Duplicates, Keyword, Example Photo, Faces, People, and Aesthetics. Each has selectable parameters such as how strict or loose you want the search to be and the maximum number of images you want found. Depending on the tool, other filters such as similarity are also available.

Perhaps the most ingenious is Search by Text Prompt. In the text box, you can type in a specific subject such as bridge, insects, or trees, or a condition which might be sunset or night. But you can also use descriptions and abstract concepts so you can search for images that show happiness, tranquillity, or peaceful times, or depict a style such as psychedelic or film noir.

Searches are quick and depend on the catalogue size. In my 127,232 image catalogue, I did a search for bridges with the Restrictive/Loose slider at 50 and a maximum number of 1000 images. The search took 15 seconds and in that selection, most were bridges which included detail shots and general views but also I got other subjects including piers.

Out of curiosity, I wanted to see how Excire Search 2026 worked with locations. I searched for London and the limit of 5000 images was found in just under 30 seconds. A quick skim through the results showed that around 85% were of London, with the rest made up of shots of other cities including Venice and Newcastle. Next, I tried a search for Cambridge with the Restrictive/Loose slider at 1 and got 266 images with around 60% correct. I had not keyworded most of these images, so it was Excire’s advanced skills that did the work.

Essentially, Search by Text Prompt proved to be a very useful and effective tool and must be tried to be appreciated.

Cutting edge facial recognition technology is used by Search 2026 to find faces and people and even with large Lightroom catalogues, searches take seconds.

 

Of the search options, faces and people will probably be the most used, so I tried them next. Bring up the Search for Faces dialogue box and with its simple graphics, you can narrow down the search to the number of people in shot, their age, gender and whether they are smiling or not. My search for two smiling female adults found 655 images and I got a mix of street pictures and set-up portraits. Some shots were also of single people and I got the occasional bloke too, but again, the majority fitted the search criteria.

For the Search for People function, you need a reference photo to start with. So, with a face you’ve found using Search for Faces or a face you already have in Lightroom’s Library module, click on the reference image so it becomes active in the Excire Search Panel. Clicking on the Highlight Faces icon in the top bar brings up a focus box overlay so you can check sharpness and then clicking the Search for People icon brings up the dialogue box. Here you can set the similarity limit from Restrictive to Loose, filter by face count and keyword and use key qualities such as smiling and eyes open. Right-click on the magnifier icon and you can skip the dialogue box.

This is a very useful tool if you need to quickly find pictures for a client or of a family member. Setting the Restrictive/Loose similarity limit to a low figure helps with accuracy.

Finishing briefly with the last three search options, Search by Keyword works with Excire’s keywords and those you might have already applied in Lightroom, and it can even search for images with a dominant colour. The Duplicates and Example Photo are self-explanatory, and both have potential if you’re working with large catalogues.

Overall, Excire’s search tools proved themselves to be highly capable. They weren’t infallible but they were competent enough to save time and effort compared with manually searching through large catalogues.

 

Excire checks focus for you. The greener the box outline, the sharper the focus; with softer images, green gives way to yellow and then red. You can see here the box has a hint of yellow, so focus wasn’t spot-on; it was shot at f/1.4 so there wasn’t much depth-of-field.

 

Select the Sequences or Visual similarities culling folder in Lightroom and the Excire Search Panel Culling group view shows a single image from each folder. This also works on other culling group types, i.e., people. Click on a thumbnail and you see the contents of the folder back in Lightroom.

 

Excire Search 2026 Culling

Manually sorting out the best photos from a day’s shoot is a time-intensive process, but it must be done. Excire Search 2026 brings AI automation to the process so you can quickly funnel down thousands of shots to essential keepers for editing.

Excire’s culling tools are extensive and configurable. Hit the Start Culling Project button, and you’ll see a four-tabbed dialogue box and here you can decide what sort of images you want to end up with. 

Start with the Grouping tab, where you choose one or more grouping options and this works independently of the Smart Selection tab. People, content, visual similarity, date and sequences are the key options.

Then in the Smart Selection tab, pick the Relevant grouping in the drop-down menu and there are various attributes (People, Content, People + sequence and more) to apply to pick the best photos from each group.

Under the Rejections tab, Excire has the power to reject blurred, poorly exposed shots as well as those where the subject’s eyes are shut. 

Ultimately, what Excire’s culling process does is take a large batch of images – up to 10,000 – and breaks them down to more manageable, smaller groups to work with.

Let Search 2026 take the strain when it comes to image culling. Shown here are two of the four menus in the Start Culling Project dialogue box with the inset showing the resulting collection of folders in Lightroom.

 

I set Excire to work on 611 portraits of the same model and two minutes later, it had created, among other things, 88 sequences, two capture groups, rated five photos with five stars and rejected 103 shots. 

All the images are put into a Lightroom Collection that you can then check through, rate and process. Certainly, Excire 2026 did well and it did pick out poor exposures and eyes shut shots, but of course, it can’t appreciate what you were trying to do on a creative level, so it did reject some of my close-up profile shots that were deliberately slightly underexposed. That’s no problem, though, and checking through the Reject folder and hitting U in Lightroom to unflag those shots sorted that.

Of course, it’s important to check through Excire’s selections and groupings but even identifying the blurred shots and incorrect exposures saves time. Also, it’s no problem to run Smart Selection again with different criteria and there’s a button to do that.

 

Out of 611 shots of Dolly, Excire gave a rating of five stars to just five photos. Clicking on the Selection Collection in Lightroom means you can check the images and in Excire, you can see the green focus box if the Highlight Faces icon is clicked. Hit the thumbnail and you get a magnified view for a close check.

 

Excire Search 2026 Keywording and Aesthetic rating

Keywording is time-consuming. Excire Search 2026 has AI-powered auto keywording that’s done during initialisation. There’s the option of having keywords show in Lightroom’s Keyword and Keyword List panels and are identified as Excire 2026 and sit alongside your own keywords.

In my shoot, I had a model posing with a wine glass, so the images were keyworded with Food, Drink as well as the attributes you would expect, so Portrait, Face and Adult were also applied. Interestingly, photos of models in a long, white frilly dress were keyworded Bride.

During initialisation, every image is also given an Aesthetic score out of 100, so the higher the score the more aesthetically pleasing the image, according to Excire. The score is produced by Excire’s AI technology which has been trained by expert photographers and hundreds of thousands of images. This rating appears in Lightroom in the Metadata palette (in the All Plug-in Metadata menu), although it doesn’t appear as a Library filter. That means if you want to sort images by Excire’s Aesthetic rating in Lightroom, you need to go to Library>Plug-in Extras> Search by Aesthetics, where you can search by the most or least aesthetic rating. You can also sort by Aesthetics with Excire's culling tools (though it can only be applied to a set of grouped images).

Excire generates keywords automatically during initialisation. To give you an idea of the breadth and depth that Excire goes to, here are the keywords under the headings of Animal, Architecture, Nature and People.

 

Excire Search 2026 Verdict

Excire Search 2026 is a very capable app and for busy photographers vested in an Adobe Lightroom Classic workflow, it represents a compelling proposition. Yes, at £199 / $229 it’s not cheap, but then you are paying for an outright purchase and it does bring powerful image management features to Lightroom and the two apps complement each other nicely. It’s only with culling that there’s any function duplication, but Excire’s version has more options.

On the whole, there’s much to appreciate and enjoy in Excire Search 2026, so do try out the free 14-day trial here and see what it can do for your workflow.

 

Excire Search 2026 Pros

• One-time purchase
• Easy to use
• Excire runs locally
• Search by Text Prompt is clever
• Face and people search
• Auto keywording works well especially with people photos and is a huge time saver
• Keywords and aesthetic ratings can be automatically transferred to Lightroom
• AI assisted culling 
• Some search tools work with videos

 

Excire Search 2026 Cons

• It costs £199 / $229 but that is for a lifetime licence
• Initialisation takes a while with large image collections, but it is a one-off process
• Auto aesthetic rating has limited appeal 
• Limited to single image view
• Auto keywording is less effective with scenes and locations but it still works

 

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1. Pick A Strong Subject

As silhouettes don't have any detail and are, essentially, just an outline, picking a subject that has a recognisable shape and strong detail around the edge will produce shots that are more interesting. Possible subject choices include:

• Big wheels at fairgrounds or those found in cities.
• Statues which can be found in most parks and gardens.
• Trees, particularly on misty mornings.
• Tunnels or bridges make great frames for subjects when silhouetted.
• People but remember that shooting them side on will show more shape when still. 
• People in action - if they're jumping or forming an interesting frame with their legs and arms, shooting straight on can work well.

  2. Choose A Light Source 

Any subject that is surrounded by bright tones can easily appear as a silhouette. The most obvious light source to use is the sun as you can use it at the beach, in town, in your garden or even inside as long as you're working near a large window or close to a set of patio doors. But really you can use any light source, you just need to make sure it sits behind your subject.

 

3. Switch The Flash Off

When you take your camera out of its bag and use auto mode to take a shot of your subject sat against a bright background, generally the flash will fire to lighten the foreground and even out the exposure. This is usually fine but as we want to deliberately underexpose our subject, you need to make sure the flash is turned off.

 

 

4. Underexpose Your Shot When working in auto mode, most point and shoot cameras will work out the exposure and where it needs to focus when you press the shutter button halfway. So to trick it into creating a silhouette, simply point the camera at the brightest part of the scene you're photographing, press the shutter halfway down and don't let go of it. Re-frame the shot then press the shutter button the rest of the way to take your shot. This should fool the camera into giving you the exposure you want but you may have to try exposing from different parts of the image to create the silhouette you're looking for. Try using the Sunset Mode too to further enhance the silhouette you're trying to create.
  5. Check The Shot's Focus

The problem with half-pressing the shutter button to get the exposure you need is that the camera will also focus on that spot too which can mean your silhouette can lack crispness. If this happens and you can adjust the focus manually, pre-focus before you take your meter reading. You could try using Landscape mode as this will let the camera know you want to use a small aperture so your shot has front to back sharpness. If your camera features exposure compensation you'll be able to select -1 or -2 to deliberately underexpose your shot. This means you shouldn't have any problems with focusing either as you won't have to move the camera.

 

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    Wonky horizons are the bane of many landscape and cityscape photographers as a horizon that's slightly off-tilt can spoil what's otherwise a perfectly good shot. Of course, there will be times when holding your camera at an angle so the horizon line is deliberately not straight but if you do want to do this, make sure it's really obvious as otherwise, it'll just look like you forgot to check your frame before hitting the shutter button.   How To Straighten Horizons    1. Line it up with the bottom or top of your frame   The easiest way to ensure you have horizontal horizons is to line it up with the bottom or top of your frame, either in your viewfinder or on the LCD screen. Some cameras also have a digital spirit level feature which will indicate to you when the camera is level  - both on the horizontal and vertical planes. It can be displayed in the viewfinder or on the back monitor when using Live View, along with all your other settings. When the marker is in the middle of the gauge and turns green, you know you're level.     2. Rule of thirds grid  If you don't have a digital spirit level, have a look in your camera's menu options to see if there's a rule of thirds grid. We know this isn't designed for this purpose but the grid will have horizontal lines on it that can be a handy guide when you're looking for a quick way to check the horizon.          3. Use a spirit level Another option is to purchase a spirit level that sits on your camera's hot shoe and to use a tripod as you're more likely to move / not hold the camera straight when you shooting hand-held.      4. Post Production  Of course, you can always straighten your images in whatever editing software you use as well but it's good practise to get it right in-camera whenever possible.    

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

With warmer weather finally arriving, it's a good time to take your camera on a planned photo walk. This, of course, could be on a paid-for type of course but you can also design your own. Staying as close or venturing as far as you like from your home.

 

1. Check The Weather

Have a look online and on the TV the night before you leave and on the morning of your walk. If you're off hill walking low cloud's not good news if you want to walk higher up and blistering, bright sunshine isn't a photographer's friend no matter where you walk. There's more chance of you dehydrating too on a warmer day so either wait for cooler temperatures or pack plenty of water if you're still going to head out in it.
 

2. Dress For The Weather

Stick your head out of the door and see what the weather's like and if it is sunny do still pack a waterproof just in case.
 

3. Tell People You're Going 

Make sure someone at home knows where you're going and give them an estimated time of when you'll be back so if you do get lost, they'll know to come and find you. Take your mobile with you so they can contact you but do remember you can't get a signal in some remote locations.
 

4. Plan A Route

Don't be over adventurous as you, plus kit and stopping to take photos means, generally, you won't have the time to walk very far. A quick, short route that circles back on itself will be fine, in fact, a one/two-hour walk that takes you into a town/village or just around the area you live in would be perfectly good if you've not tried a photography walk before. If you do want to venture into the countryside you might not want to climb up to many steep hills on your first walk but you don't have to get too high to shoot interesting sweeping vistas. Try walking along the side of a river or through the woods instead.
 

5. Capture A Variety Of Imagery 

Of course, there will be plenty of wide landscapes to capture out of the city but don't overlook shooting a few close up shots too. Look out for flowers, interesting patterns in bark and insects on your trail. If you see something in the distance, a waterfall for example, but don't have the time or energy to get closer to it use the pulling power of a longer focal length to bring it to you. This will help isolate it from the wider scene and also bring detail into the shot that may not have been seen if you shot it with a wide lens. Closer to home get up higher to stop problems with converging verticals and this will also give you the chance to capture some cityscapes. In between the buildings look for reflections and interesting detail/patterns roof tiles, brickwork, fences and other objects create.

 

 

6. Pack The Right Lenses

Wide-angle zooms are good for capturing sweeping landscapes with interesting foregrounds while telephoto zoom lenses are good for picking out detail and compressing perspective. To save on weight pack just one zoom lens that covers all the focal points you need. For close up work, pack a macro lens.

7. A Tripod Is A Must 

It's always a good idea to take a tripod along, particularly for landscapes, where the built-in spirit level will help you ensure your horizons are straight. You'll also need one if you're planning on stopping to shoot some slow shutter speed shots of lakes, rivers and waterfalls. If you're planning a long-ish walk you'll need a light-weight model. Pack your remote shutter release with your tripod too for those slow shutter speed shots where shake will really be noticed.
 

8. You'll Need A Good Pair Of Shoes

You need a pair of shoes/boots that are comfy, it's a good idea to make sure they're waterproof and you'll thank them at the end of your walk if they support your ankles. Having a good sole which gives good traction is also a must if you're heading off the pavement.
 

9. Remember The Filters

Find the room in your camera bag for a polarising filter and an ND filter as they don't take up too much space but are very helpful tools on sunny days when you need to use slower shutter speeds or when reflections are a problem. An ND Grad filter can be useful too for balancing out the exposure of the sky and ground.
 

10. Pick The Right Camera Bag 

If you're off on a long walk, as well as having space for your camera and lenses make sure there's room for spare clothing, water, food and a compass.  But don't carry a bag that's too big, though, as walking is tiring enough on its own without having to carry a large bag that's half empty.

 

 

11. Always Carry Spare Batteries And Memory

You don't want to run out of power or space to store your photos when you're only halfway through your walk so always pack extra.

 

12. Don't Forget The Torch

If you're planning on photographing sunrises you'll be setting your kit up and walking while it's still dark and without a torch, this can be a little tricky. So your hands are free, take a head torch with you to light the way. Of course, if you're staying closer to home you'll have street lights so this item's not something you'll need in your bag.

 

13. Other Essential Accessories You Will Need 

Take a lens cloth to wipe dust and moister off your lens, a lens hood will help stop glare, a compass will guide you along your chosen route and a map will stop you getting lost. If you're heading out for quite a few hours make sure you take food, water and plenty of snacks with you. Make sure the clothing you're wearing is lightweight and it's often better to layer up rather than heading out in just one coat. If it's a sunny day pack your sun cream as even if there's a slight covering of cloud, the sun will still get you if you're out in it all day.

 

14. Find A Friend To Walk With You 

Taking a short walk on your own is fine but if you're going on a four-mile hike take someone else with you so if you do get lost or worse still injured, you won't just have yourself to rely on. If you're going with a none-photographer they may also help you carry your equipment and hold your bag while you're taking your shots. Do go with someone who has a slight interest in photography though as they can help you look for good locations to shoot in/of and if they don't have an interest in photography at all they'll just get bored of stopping and waiting for you to take your photos.
 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to p1yu5h (Day 3- 'Dandelions').

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 1

City Shoot

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Day 2

'Quick' Theme

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Day 4

Lighthouse In The Landscape

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Day 5

Trains

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  Day 6

Hedgerows

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Day 7

Seaside Captures

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Day 8

'Old vs New' Theme

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

 

Low-light photography always comes with a tradeoff: raise the ISO, and you get the shot, but also noise. In fleeting moments, whether shooting wildlife, handheld street scenes, or live events, there’s no second chance to adjust settings or reshoot. Capturing the moment comes first, and improving image quality happens later in post-processing.

While AI image denoisers are designed to reduce image noise while preserving natural texture, different tools strike this balance in various ways. To help you find the best fit for your workflow, I’ve tested several leading photo denoising software across common real-world scenarios, comparing how each handles the delicate line between noise removal and detail retention.

 

How AI Denoising Restores Images with Natural Details

Traditional noise reduction often removed grain through heavy smoothing, which could leave images looking soft and lose important texture, especially in low-light photos. Instead of simply blurring noise, modern AI tools like Aiarty Image Enhancer intelligently separate noise from real detail to preserve edges, texture, and structural integrity. It is designed for real-world photography workflows, helping recover clean image quality from high-ISO, low-light, or compressed photos.

 

Test methodology:

To ensure a practical comparison, all images were captured in real-world low-light conditions rather than a controlled studio:

• ISO range: 3200–12800 
• Formats: Mix of RAW and JPEG 
• Shooting conditions: Handheld, low ambient light, no additional lighting
• Aiarty is used as the starting reference in this testing. You can get a free trial to test it on your own files, with several other leading tools compared below to show how different approaches handle real-world denoising.

 

Case Study 1: Wildlife (Fur Detail Under Low Light)

Wildlife photography often requires high ISO settings during the "golden hours" of dawn or dusk. The challenge lies in separating fine fur or feather textures from noise, especially in underexposed areas. Traditional tools often smudge these textures, leaving backgrounds blotchy and subjects soft.

Using a squirrel image as an example, where noise appears in both the background and fur, Aiarty Image Enhancer maintains natural and detailed look of the squirrel’s fur, with clear texture instead of being turned into flat areas.

 

Testing Aiarty Image Enhancer: More-Detail GAN v3 model, x2 upscaled, 0.95 Strength

 

You can also control how strong the denoising is with the Strength option. By adjusting the Strength slider, photographers can retain a hint of organic grain for a more "atmospheric" shot or opt for a 100% clean, clinical output for high-end prints.

 

Testing Aiarty Image Enhancer: denoise strength 50% vs 100% 

 

Case Study 2: Low-light Indoor Photography

Indoor scenes with mixed artificial lighting, such as portraits or interior shots, frequently suffer from grain across smooth surfaces like skin, walls, and furniture. Aggressive image noise reduction often results in a "plastic" look where skin textures are over-smoothed and fabric details disappear. 

Aiarty Image Enhancer effectively reduces image noise while preserving subject detail and natural texture. It cleans up grain in low-light interiors without sacrificing the natural micro-textures of skin or wood, ensuring that lighting transitions remain smooth and balanced.

 

Testing Aiarty Image Enhancer: Real-Photo v3, slightly color corrected

 

Case Study 3: Night Photography (Gradient Noise and Color Artifacts)

Night photography presents a unique challenge: managing noise in vast, smooth areas like dark skies and deep shadows. High ISOs often introduce chroma noise (color speckling), which can cause banding in gradients and a loss of depth in the shadows.

While many photo denoising tools struggle with shadow depth, Aiarty Image Enhancer eliminates color artifacts while keeping gradients fluid. Skies remain clean and even, and shadows retain their tonal depth, preventing the "flat" look common in over-processed night shots.

 

Testing Aiarty Image Enhancer: More-Detail GAN v3, slightly color corrected

 

2026 Best AI Photo Denoisers Compared

Aiarty Image Enhancer is a powerful AI denoise and upscale tool. Designed for real-world photos, it effectively removes noise while preserving fine details and natural textures. 

That said, there’s no one-size-fits-all solution for image denoising. Different image denoising tools are optimized for different needs—whether it’s RAW photo processing, fast batch cleanup, or advanced AI-driven enhancement workflows.

 

Tool Primary Focus Denoise Approach Price Aiarty Image Enhancer AI-based enhancement Noise reduction + detail reconstruction Lifetime license (with free trial) Adobe Lightroom RAW workflow Sensor-level AI denoise Creative Cloud subscription only DaVinci Resolve Signal processing Temporal + spatial noise reduction Lifetime license (Studio version) Topaz Photo AI Intelligent Automation Denoise + sharpen pipeline Subscription DxO PureRAW Camera calibration Camera-profile-based denoise Lifetime license + upgrade fee ON1 NoNoise AI General-purpose AI Adjustable AI denoise for RAW/JPEG Lifetime/subscription

 

Tips: To get the best results, match the AI image denoiser to your editing habits. If you want to avoid the "subscription trap" and prioritize long-term value, Aiarty Image Enhancer currently offers a 49% off lifetime license ($79, originally $155), available for 3 machines (PC/Mac), includes free lifetime updates, and is backed by a 30-day money-back guarantee.

 

Adobe Lightroom

For those already within the Adobe ecosystem, Lightroom offers a seamless experience by integrating its AI Denoise tool directly into the familiar Detail panel. The workflow is impressively straightforward: a single slider adjustment generates a new, enhanced DNG file, allowing you to continue your RAW editing without interruption.

Under the hood, Lightroom performs sophisticated RAW-level processing that balances image noise reduction with color and tonal consistency. The results are highly predictable and professional, prioritizing a stable, clean output over aggressive texture reconstruction.

 

 

DaVinci Resolve (UltraNR / Neural Noise Reduction)

If you already use DaVinci Resolve for video, you’ll be pleased to know its new Photo Page brings that same Hollywood-grade photo denoising to your still images. It’s a fantastic "two-for-one" tool that lets you clean up noisy photos using the UltraNR engine without ever leaving your project timeline.

Rather than trying to "invent" new textures, the DaVinci Neural Engine focuses on high-end signal cleanup. It uses a mix of spatial and temporal analysis to remove noise from photos, effectively scrubbing away that gritty luminance and "rainbow" chroma noise while keeping edges like hair and eyes sharp. It’s particularly impressive in deep shadows or underexposed night shots, providing a clean, cinematic look that feels like a natural photograph rather than a digital reconstruction.

 

 

Topaz Photo 

Built around an all-in-one enhancement pipeline, Topaz Photo applies AI models to denoise, sharpen, and upscale images with minimal manual adjustment, focusing on fast automated results. The idea is straightforward: load a noisy image, let the model decide, and get a clean result quickly. Different AI models handle RAW and non-RAW images separately.

When applied to real images, it removes noise from images and produces clean results with minimal manual input. Because AI image denoising and sharpening are handled together, the final appearance can vary depending on how each model balances smoothing and detail enhancement.

 

 

DxO PureRAW

DxO PureRAW takes a RAW-first approach to image enhancement, combining camera and lens profiling with AI-based processing tailored to specific sensor characteristics. Within this workflow, DxO relies on DeepPRIME models to denoise images. Using camera and lens profiles together with AI-based processing, they handle image noise reduction, demosaicing, and optical corrections in a unified step. Newer versions like DeepPRIME 3 and XD3 further improve noise suppression and detail recovery in high-ISO images.

This calibration-heavy workflow delivers exceptionally clean RAW files with superior noise suppression, providing a purer "digital negative" that is particularly effective for high-ISO images shot in difficult lighting.

 

 

ON1 NoNoise AI

Available as both a standalone tool and plugin, ON1 NoNoise AI applies AI-driven noise reduction to RAW and JPEG files while offering adjustable control over detail preservation and smoothing intensity.

The tool uses AI-based noise reduction to clean up high-ISO and low-light images while attempting to preserve fine detail and sharpness, with adjustable intensity levels that allow users to control how aggressively noise is removed. While it prioritizes a balanced, natural look for everyday photography rather than deep texture reconstruction, it remains a popular AI denoiser for its ability to preserve color fidelity in challenging low-light shots.

 

 

Conclusion 

AI has transformed noise reduction from a tedious chore into a professional-grade shortcut. While tools like Lightroom and DxO focus on RAW consistency, and others lean toward automation, Aiarty Image Enhancer stands out for its superior balance of noise removal and genuine texture preservation.

For photographers who need powerful, easy-to-use image noise reduction that restores natural detail without complex manual steps, Aiarty is a top-tier choice. It offers the precision and speed required to turn noisy, low-light shots into clean, professional results with just a single click.

 

What Is Mood?

Mood essentially relates to the lighting in a shot. Giving something mood usually means we are trying to make it dark and brooding – making it moody. But mood can relate to any lighting situation, to give your photo any mood/feeling.

For landscape photography, mood usually relates to the weather. A cloudy, unsettled day will create mood in a way most of us expect it to be - dark and brooding. Although the opposite, where streaks of the sun break through the cloud to shine light on parts of the green landscape is equally as good, it's just the mood/feeling is different. 

 

Gear Choices

To take good moody landscapes, you're going to need a tripod as dark days may be good for the style of shot you're trying to create but the lack of light can lead to slower shutter speeds and working without a tripod can result in shake. 

 

 

Be Patient

This type of photography requires patience. To get the best shots, you need to wait until there is a break in the weather to get some really interesting lighting effects from the turbulent sky. Of course, mood doesn't have to be cloudy, but with landscapes, it's more of a challenge to portray mood on bright, sunny, cloudless days. 

When the right light does arrive, work quickly as it can be gone again before you know it. The key to this is always to be ready, having your gear out and framing in-mind before the right light does show its face. 
 

Be Prepared

Check the weather forecast the night before as there's no point heading out if you find the weather isn't going to be right. You also need to have the right type of location as you'll find some subjects will work better in dark, moody shots than others. 

 

 

Convert Your Shots

Black and white is another way to create mood in your photography. Taking photos of a gnarly tree, for example, in black and white will look so much more foreboding than a shot in colour. You can shoot black and white in-camera although, if you shoot in colour, you can convert your shots to black and white in your chosen editing software, giving you more control over the tones, highlights and shadows in the shot.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

Landscape photography's all well and good, but what do you photograph when the skies are leaden and the rain's really set in for the day. That's when I pick up a tripod and head off for a 'rust fix' and there are plenty of museums and collections around the country that are perfect for this type of day.

 

Think In Textures & Patterns 

The secret when visiting collections of rusty vehicles is to try to forget what it is you are photographing, by that I mean not to look at them as a lathe, excavator, or drill; but to view everything as simply shape, pattern and texture. Indoor locations such as old sheds and workshops should be explored, too, as even though they may seem to be filled with junk, if you look around carefully there will be a wealth of goodies to point your camera at.

It's worth leaving the camera in your bag and walking round for 15 minutes, just looking to see what might work photographically – pick out maybe a pile of spanners sitting on a workbench, or if outside, select one vehicle and look over it carefully, choosing details that will make strong, abstract, colourful and interesting pictures.

Raindrops on the surface add another texture, and wet paint and rust enrich the colours. If you are working inside using light coming through a window behind the items you are photographing, a reflector can be invaluable to bounce light from the window back into the shadows. Be careful not to rush around trying to photograph everything – you will more than likely be disappointed with the results, spend time working around each subject, trying various angles and looking close to create strong, abstract, colourful and interesting pictures.

 

Why's A Tripod An Important Tool?  

Because the 'undercover' work (and if it's pouring with rain, that's probably the best place to be) tends to be in darker locations, a tripod is an essential piece of kit. Lighting levels are low and shutter speeds can be quite long, but I'm not a huge fan of flash in these places – firstly, it tends to kill the natural lighting, second, if there other people looking around, a continual flashing can be annoying for them. I keep my ISO fairly low for this work, as non-moving subjects taken using a tripod are no problem up to 30-second exposures – or beyond if you have a remote release with a timer.
 

Work With Custom White Balance Settings 

Be careful of lighting – often there is a mixture of diffused daylight coming through the windows, and fluorescent lighting in the ceiling. The ideal solution is to turn off the lights, but this wouldn't go down too well with others, so make full use of your camera's custom white balance settings.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to TheShaker (Day 18- Weather).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 17

People In The Landscapes

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Day 19

Lighthouses

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Day 20

Numbers & Letters

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Day 21

'Arty' Theme

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  Day 22

'Fun' Theme

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Day 23

Flotsam

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

amaran has a reputation for creating excellent lighting solutions for today’s image creators. Its latest introduction is the Halo series, a range of great value COB (chip on board) lights. The five-strong family comprises the Halo 60x (63W output), 100x (100W), 200x (200W), 300x (305W) and the top of the range 600x, a 610W unit tested here. With an impressively high output coming from compact, space-saving designs, the Halo series is attractively priced, making great light attainable to content creators of all budget levels.

There’s no denying that the amaran Halo 600x monolight has a handsome profile. Key features include two control knobs on the rear, a light stand mount which doubles as a carry grip and brolly holder, and an internal cooling fan with silent mode.

 

Quick Verdict

If you need a powerful, no-nonsense monolight, look no further than the amaran Halo 600x. It’s solidly built and user-friendly whether using the on-board controls or the amaran app to fine-tune its output. Its design is well thought through too with some nice touches such as its light stand mount, which can accept a brolly spindle and works a comfortable carrying handle.

However, design and ergonomics count for nothing if the Halo 600x didn’t deliver a capable performance, but there’s nothing to worry about on that score. It has a prodigious amount of power that’s tightly controllable in terms of output and colour temperature and its colour performance is impressive too.

 

+ Pros

• Powerful
• Controllable down to 1% output
• 2700-6500K
• Accurate colour temperature output
• Integral cooling fan
• Bowens modifier mount
• Option of app control
• Special effects
• Design and build quality
• Support of amaran’s accessory and modifier system
• DMX control (Digital Multiplex control – remote control)

- Cons

• To be honest, at this price and with this level of performance, nothing
• A carry case would have been nice, but of course, that would impact the price

 

 

 

The amaran Halo series is the perfect companion to amaran’s flagship Ray series which features four monolights; the top of the range Ray 660C has a 660W output. In terms of lighting, the Ray series provides a full-colour output and an even wider colour temperature range (2300-10,000K) powered by the OmniColor light engine. The Ray 660C retails at £694 / $699.

By comparison, the Halo family features bi-colour lights offering core lighting needs in simple to use units that are perfectly at home, on location or in a full-blown professional studio. The Halo range-topping 600x retails at £462 / $469.

amaran offers a full range of Bowens fit lighting modifiers including softboxes (rectangular and octa), spotlights, barn doors and lantern diffusers. 

In this review, we used an amaran Lantern 90 (£104 / $99) and an Octa Dome 60 (£83 / $89).

Unmodified, the Halo 600x’s head gives a light spread of 85° and it accepts Bowens bayonet fit modifiers. The light mount stand has a hole for a lighting brolly stem and is contoured to serve as a carrying handle.

 

amaran Halo 600x Hands on

Pick up the Halo 600x, and I challenge you not to be impressed with its build quality but it’s not heavy, so it’s reasonably portable. The unmodified head gives a light spread of 85°, and it’ll accept Bowens fit lighting modifiers. 

A 5m mains cable with an angled connector comes with the Halo 600x, so just plug this in, and you are ready to go. Turning the unit on and off is done with a push button, and the central TFT screen keeps you informed about power output and colour temperature. Altering output is done with the top right knob and is controllable in 1% steps within the 1-100% power range, while the bottom button handles colour temperature from 2700 to 6700K. There’s no need to dive into a menu.

A free app available for iOS, Android and desktop (Mac and Windows) allows remote control of the Halo 600x via Bluetooth, and there’s a USB-C port for more advanced DMX control. The Halo series is amaran’s first COB light to offer DMX control via USB-C on every model for convenient integration into studio lighting consoles. There’s built-in NFC too.

Hit the bottom left button and that takes you to more settings and functions including the unit’s special effects, that includes fireworks, lightning, paparazzi and strobe.

The modifiers used for the test were the amaran Lantern 90 and the Octa Dome 60. In the Lantern’s case, it’s designed to give a soft, even spread of light across a broad area, while the Octa Dome 50 gives a tighter circle of light and comes with a diffuser cover and a cloth grid. Both are very quick to set up, but the Octa Dome 60 deserves a special mention for its innovative design. Assembling octa-type softboxes is traditionally fiddly and takes effort but to erect the Octa Dome, all you do is push the blue plastic tab into place. No strain and no having to mess around with stiff supporting rods.

I tried the amaran app on my iPhone. Pairing the light and app was easy and re-connected reliably each time I came to use the light. Controlling power, colour temperature and special effects was straightforward, so it was a convenient way of working if you can’t get to the Halo 600x’s control knobs or see the control panel.

Running at a high power for long periods even when a modifier was attached, was no issue. The unit grew warm but not hot, so the cooling fan did a fine job and was quiet too. 

 

The Halo 600x has a range of special effects that can be fine-tuned to suit.

 

amaran Halo 600x Key Features

• Price £462 / $469
• High-power COB light
• Mains powered
• Bi-colour chipset
• Separate brightness and colour temperature knobs
• CCT 2700-6500K output
• Range of special effects
• 96+ CRI
• 97+ TLCi
• Bowens modifier mount
• Beam angle, no modifier 85°
• Built-in active cooling fan
• On-board controls, by amaran app, DMX via USB-C
• Max power consumption 610watts
• Max light output 32,500 lux at 1m, no modifier
• TFT screen
• IP20 weather resistance rating
• Firmware upgradable
• Size including mounting bracket 24.2x14.1x16.5cm 
• Weighs 2.91kg
• Comes with 5m mains cable
• amarancreators.com

 

Simple but efficient, that sums up the Halo 600x’s control panel. The two knobs on the right control colour temperature (top) and output level (below) with the on/off push button (top left) and CCT/effects and other settings (below left). At the centre is the TFT readout panel. Here, it's just showing that a mains lead is connected.

 

amaran Halo 600x Output

Look through the amaran Halo 600x’s long specification list and you’ll see that the bare head at 1m at full power pumps out 32,500 lux at 4300K, the colour temperature that gives maximum output. This sounds impressive but what does that mean in practice? Using a Gossen lightmeter set to ISO 100, I got an exposure reading of 1/30sec at f/16.5 and ISO 100 at 1m and that dropped to f/8 at 3m. That’s an impressive amount of light, but of course, an unmodified head doesn’t give a flattering light, so I turned to amaran’s diffusers for a kinder look.

Adding the Octa 60 fitted with the outer diffuser sheet only, at full power, ISO 100 and at 1m, the meter reading was 1/30sec at f/11.8 and this dropped to f/5.6 at 3m. This remains a very useable amount of light.

Next, it was the turn of the amaran Lantern 90, a larger modifier that produces a lovely light. At 100% output, 4300K, 1m and at ISO 100, the meter gave an exposure reading of 1/30sec at f/11.7, so essentially the same at the Octa Dome 60. Moving out to 3m and the aperture dropped to f/5.6, again the same as the Octa Dome 60.

Trying different output levels showed that the power drop-off was consistent. As an example of this, without any modifier, the Halo 600x at 5600K, 1m and full power gave a meter reading of 1/30sec at f/16.6 and this dropped to f/11.6 at 50% power and f/8.0.7 at 25% power.

The cooling fan has three modes: Smart, High and Silent. My testing was done with the Halo 600x in its High mode, which did a great job of dissipating heat. The head does get warm in use, but not hot, so it’s still comfortable to change modifiers without burning your fingers.

Fan noise is not really an issue, but it is audible in a quiet environment, so if noise is a concern, there’s a silent mode, but this comes at a cost of output. With the Lantern 90 fitted and at 4300K, full power, ISO 100 and 1m, the meter reading was f/30sec at f/4, so that is over three f/stops less power than normal mode. Adjust output from 100% downwards and the output stays constant until you fall below 10%, and then it drops another one f/stop to f/2.8. At 3m, the reading is 1/30sec at f/1.4.3 throughout the output range until you dip below 10%, where the meter reading is 1/30sec at f/1.0. 

The Halo 600x’s two knobs give precise control of output in CCT mode, from 1 to 100%, and colour temperature from 2700 to 6500K.

 

amaran Halo 600x Colour performance

To test its colour performance and stability at different output settings, we used the Halo 600x in a practical scenario, using a simple set-up that included a colour test chart. The Halo 600x was fitted with the amaran Lantern 90 modifier and pictures taken of the test scenes at different output levels - 10%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% - and at a range of colour temperatures - 2700K, 3200K, 5500K and 6500K. Two cameras were used, the Canon EOS R5 and the Sony A1 II, and each was set to a manual white-balance value to match the Halo 600x’s colour output.

From this test, it’s safe to say that the Halo 600x gives a more than respectable and stable colour performance through its output range with minimal colour variance.

To see the results in more detail, please click on the thumbnails below.

 

Our test scene comprised test charts, natural colours and neutral tones, so any colour shifts would be easily identified.

 

Power at 10%

Power at 25%

Power at 50%

amaran Halo 600x at 2700K

Canon EOS R5 manual WB

set to 2700K, unedited RAW

Power at 75%

Power at 100%

amaran Halo 600x set to 2700K, Canon EOS R5

 

Power at 10%

Power at 25%

Power at 50%

amaran Halo 600x at 3200K

Canon EOS R5 manual WB

set to 3200K, unedited RAW

Power at 75%

Power at 100%

amaran Halo 600x set to 3200K, Canon EOS R5

 

Power at 10%

Power at 25%

Power at 50%

amaran Halo 600x at 5600K

Canon EOS R5 manual WB

set to 5600K, unedited RAW

Power at 75%

Power at 100%

amaran Halo 600x set to 5600K, Canon EOS R5

 

Power at 10%

Power at 25%

Power at 50%

amaran Halo 600x at 6500K

Canon EOS R5 manual WB

set to 6500K, unedited RAW

Power at 75%

Power at 100%

amaran Halo 600x set to 6500K, Canon EOS R5

 

Power at 10%

Power at 25%

Power at 50%

amaran Halo 600x at 2700K

Sony A1 II manual WB

set to 2700K, unedited RAW

Power at 75%

Power at 100%

amaran Halo 600x set to 2700K, Sony A1 II

 

Power at 10%

Power at 25%

Power at 50%

amaran Halo 600x at 3200K

Sony A1 II manual WB

set to 3200K, unedited RAW

Power at 75%

Power at 100%

amaran Halo 600x set to 3200K, Sony A1 II

 

Power at 10%

Power at 25%

Power at 50%

amaran Halo 600x at 5600K

Sony A1 II manual WB

set to 5600K, unedited RAW

Power at 75%

Power at 100%

amaran Halo 600x set to 5600K, Sony A1 II

 

Power at 10%

Power at 25%

Power at 50%

amaran Halo 600x at 6500K

Sony A1 II manual WB

set to 6500K, unedited RAW

Power at 75%

Power at 100%

amaran Halo 600x set to 6500K, Sony A1 II

 

The amaran Halo 600x has a USB-C port for DMX control, there’s NFC and Bluetooth connectivity for control with the free amaran app.

 

amaran Halo 600x Verdict

The amaran Halo 600x is a powerful, reliable monolight that’s built to withstand the bangs and bumps of everyday photographic life. It performed exceptionally with no issues arising during our test period. 

The Halo 600x ran for several hours with the fan set to its High setting and it didn’t overheat, even when a modifier was fitted. 

In terms of light, the Halo 600x delivered plenty of power even when fitted with a modifier, and that light was colour consistent at different output levels. 

Ultimately, unless you need a full colour RGB light, the amaran Halo 600x is a great value, high performing monolight with much to commend it. With no serious shortcomings to report, it comes highly recommended for creators of all levels.

 

amaran Halo 600x Pros

• Powerful
• Controllable down to 1% output
• 2700-6500K
• Accurate colour temperature output
• Integral cooling fan
• Bowens modifier mount
• Option of app control
• Special effects
• Design and build quality
• Support of amaran’s accessory and modifier system
• DMX control (Digital Multiplex control – remote control)

 

amaran Halo 600x Cons

• To be honest, at this price and with this level of performance, nothing
• A carry case would have been nice, but of course, that would impact the price

 

 

[REVIEW_FOOTER]R_features=4|R_handling=4.5|R_performance=4.5|R_value=5|R_overall=4.5|A_level=4.5|E_id=8016[/REVIEW_FOOTER]

 

 

Due to the size of the UK, we're usually not a million miles from the coast where you'll find fishing boats and tourist boats galore to photograph. Further inland, there are rivers with boats, canal and inland waterways or even water-sports centre where you can capture action-packed images as well as shots of pedalos and canoes.

 

1. What Kit Should I Choose? 

For most boat photography a standard zoom of the 35-80mm range is fine. It's usually wide enough to get the whole boat in shot and long enough to crop in on sails, hull, lifebuoy on the side or other finer detail. You may prefer a longer lens 80-200mm if the boat is further away or to shoot small detail like mini flags, portraits of crew etc. and a lens with a close focus ability is good for detail in ropes, paintwork etc. when the boat is moored.

A polarising filter is a must to ensure reflections are reduced on the paintwork and to deepen a blue sky and cut down on reflections in the water. A graduated filter is useful if the boats are set against a bright sky, although watch for darkening of the mast and upper sails on yachts and such like.

If you plan on shooting panoramic photos of harbours and marinas, pack your tripod. 

 

2. Head To A Harbour 

Harbours conjure up picturesque scenes with colourful boats offset against beautiful blue skies, reflected in the waters below.  To get this sort of picture you need a sunny day with still waters. Use a polarising filter to make the colours more saturated and choose viewpoints without too much clutter. A single boat in the foreground makes a more impressive shot than one where several boats are fighting for your attention.

 

 

3. Wait For The Tide 

As the tide goes out you can photograph moored boats grounded in mud, or on the beach. Use the mooring ropes as a lead-in up through the photo. A small aperture is needed to ensure everything from the front of the rope to the distant boat is sharp. Shots will be more dramatic if you shoot from a low angle and include a brooding sky. Use a graduated grey or ND filter to darken the sky.

 

4. Walk Along A River Bank 

If you aren't near a coastal location you may have a river running nearby that has boats on it. You may get sailing boats, small cargo boats, river authority working boats or even barges. There will usually be speed limits of around 5mph which means that you don't need to worry about panning skills or the need for ultra-fast shutter speeds to shoot boats on rivers. For more impact shoot from a low angle (at the side of the river on a low bank point is best). Try to include interesting landmarks in the background, trees or the odd building at the edge of the frame to hold the viewer inside that frame and focused on the boat.

If there's a bridge find a position where you can use that as a frame as the boat passes under, but watch the exposure. The light under the bridge will be lower than the outside so it's easy to underexpose if your meter picks up the brighter area as the important part. Switch to spot metering where possible and take a meter reading from the sidewall of the bridge and use that as the starting point.

 

 

5. Make A Canal Your Focus

Canals run through many countries too. With these, you not only have boats to photograph but also the activities surrounding them. Barges are usually hand-painted and are very colourful. They often have matching watering cans or flower pots that are crying out to be photographed.  Shoot with a telephoto and wide aperture to blur the background. Focus on small areas of paintwork for patterns and interesting window displays. Find a spot where there's a lock and then you can photograph the activity as the barge is taken to the next water level.

 

6. Interested In Watersports? 

For those who prefer a little more action consider a day out at a water-sports centre. These locations are usually on man-made lakes around the country and offer sports enthusiasts opportunities to sail, water-ski or jet-ski. It's at these locations where you can shoot the speed. For the best results, it helps if you pan with the craft.

Experiment with the shutter speed to get the right amount of motion. Follow the boats and shoot as it reaches a central point of your pan. This will blur the background but if you are keeping at the same speed as the boat as you pan it will be sharp. Try to avoid moving the camera up or down as you pan.

Some have rapids for canoeing. here a fast shutter speed can be used to get the water droplets frozen as they splash around the canoe. Take shots as the canoeist comes up from a 360 roll water will be dripping off his face and he's likely to have a great air gasping expression.

 

 

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The idea of shooting old and new can be applied to various subject matter but one of the easiest ways to find subjects which can be used to interpret the theme is in the city. In most cities, new buildings are going up around older structures all of the time so it won't take you long to find a vantage point that gives you the chance to capture something new and something old in one frame.
 

Where To Start?

 

Out in your town/city, it's probably easier to look at buildings as a whole first, searching for old structures that stand next to or across from new structures made of metal and glass. How about looking for new shops in old buildings such as the stalls in Camden's stable market? Or looking for building sites where new buildings are getting created in front of structures that have stood for a long time?

After photographing whole buildings look a little closer for reflections of old brick-work in glass or new signs sat next to or even on older structures. You could try having a look through archives or even your relatives' photo albums to see if you can find shots of buildings you can go and re-create now and sit them alongside each other to show how much/little it's changed.

 

Keep It Simple

 

Try to eliminate as much of what's surrounding your old and new items as possible. This means cropping in with your lens or using your editing software to remove some of the distracting objects once you're back at your computer.

 

What Else Is There To Photograph?

 

1. People - Look for young and old people, a grandparent sat with their grandchildren for example.
2. Vehicles - Look for an older car sat in a line of more modern models or how about shooting a scrap yard with the piles of old, rusted cars and the employee's newer cars out the front? Don't enter the scrap yard though, just shoot from the road.
3. Technology -  Try shooting someone sat talking on a smartphone with an old fashioned telephone in the background. If you have an old games console in your loft, get it out and try a few still life shots of it next to a Playstation.

 

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The Viltrox AF 35mm F1.2 LAB N FE is a premium Sony mount lens that combines a classic aperture ring with modern, high speed autofocus. Its weather sealed design and advanced 15 element optics ensure sharp results in any environment, serving as a rugged choice for professional photographers and videographers. With a bright F1.2 aperture, it delivers beautiful background blur and excellent low light performance for high quality creative results.

 

From Viltrox:

Viltrox today announces the launch of its AF 35mm F1.2 LAB N FE, a full-frame ultra-large-aperture autofocus prime lens for Sony FE mount cameras. Designed to coexist alongside the original AF 35mm F1.2 LAB, the new version builds on its proven performance while introducing a more streamlined appearance without a display. It’s paired with a traditional aperture ring featuring marked stops that provide precise, tactile control preferred by many photographers.

 

Flagship Lenses & Sophisticated Optical Structure

The flagship 15-element, 10-group optical structure (including 3 HR, 5 ED, and 2 UA elements) delivers exceptional edge-to-edge sharpness, preserving fine detail even under heavy cropping, while effectively controlling chromatic aberration in high-contrast or backlit scenes.

 

Significantly Faster Autofocus with Quad HyperVCM

Powered by Viltrox’s Quad HyperVCM motor system, the lens delivers significantly faster autofocus performance compared to traditional STM systems. With micron-level precision, fast focus transitions, and support for face and eye detection, it ensures reliable subject tracking, which combined with its quiet operation and smooth focus transitions make it well suited for video production.

 

F1.2 Ultra-Large Aperture

The F1.2 aperture affords increased light intake for cleaner low-light imaging and a shallow depth of field, while the 11-blade diaphragm delivers a smooth, rounded bokeh with a natural and pleasing rendering.

 

 

Professional Handling and Workflow Efficiency

Designed for intuitive control, the aperture ring supports click and de-click switching for both photo and video use, while the AF/MF switch enables quick mode changes. Two customizable buttons provide direct access to frequently used functions, improving responsiveness during shooting.

 

Engineered for Durability in Demanding Environments

The lens incorporates a sealed structure to resist dust and moisture, ensuring reliable performance in challenging outdoor conditions. A water- and smudge-resistant front coating enhances usability, while the full-metal housing and precision-plated brass mount provide long-term structural strength.

 

Close-Up Precision and Consistent Focal Sharpness

A minimum focusing distance of 0.34m enables detailed close-up shooting, while the dual floating focus design maintains consistent sharpness and resolution across the focusing range, from close-up to infinity.

 

 

Availability

The AF 35mm F1.2 LAB N FE will be available alongside the original AF 35mm F1.2 LAB, offering photographers and filmmakers the flexibility to choose the control style that best suits their workflow. 

 

More details and how to buy

For more information, please visit: https://viltrox.com/products/af-35mm-f1-2-fe

Amazon Store:

• The US site: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GWJ4RP2B
• The European site: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0GWJ4RP2B

MSRP: 999USD / 999EUR / 869GBP

 

About Viltrox

Viltrox, established in 2009, is a globally-recognized leader in camera lenses and adapters, specializing in high-performance equipment for photography and cine. The company’s portfolio includes cinema and autofocus lenses – such as the LAB, Pro, EVO, and Air series, launched since 2018 – along with monitors, adapters, and lighting solutions.

Driven by innovation, the company expanded further into cine in 2022 with the "EPIC" anamorphic and "LUNA" zoom lenses, offering cost-effective solutions for filmmakers worldwide. Renowned for their exceptional optical quality, reliability, and accessible pricing, Viltrox products reflect a commitment to engineering excellence and user-centered design, empowering content creators in both still and motion photography. For more information, please visit: https://viltrox.com

 

As an island nation, many of us live fairly close to the coast and as well as tidal patterns in the sand, surf, sand dunes, grasses and breakwaters, the coast is host to a certain amount of flotsam. Although, rightly, we consider flotsam as undesirable rubbish, it doesn't necessarily mean that it won't make a good photographic subject. In fact, a day on the beach finding flotsam can be a great photographic challenge.

 

Where To Look For Flotsam

 

Finding flotsam is not too difficult, selecting what to take and making anything of it photographically is the most challenging aspect. Apparently the most common piece of flotsam is the humble cotton bud, but they're not the most exciting photographically. I like to look for shapes and textures – from rubber gloves to tin cans, which work best in close up using parts rather than the whole, giving a more abstract appearance.

I once found a broken plastic "beach" tennis racquet, and a few metres away from a smashed tennis ball – they simply had to go together. A partly submerged skateboard made another great subject – because only the end of it was sticking out of the sand it had a really discarded feel.

Old nets from fishing boats snagged on breakwaters can look good too, and washed up wood that has been eroded into smooth sculpted shapes by the sea can look fabulous.

 

The Best Light

 

Ideal lighting is probably hazy sunlight – enough to give some shape to your subject, but not too much to create harsh shadows – as with everything, there are exceptions, and will be many subjects that suit either very overcast or very sunny conditions. I do find a reflector can help with bouncing light back into shadows.
 

Safety First

More than anything though, be careful on the beach, windblown sand is not the best thing to get inside your camera so make sure lens changing is kept to a minimum, and shield your camera from the wind when you do change lenses. I turn my back to the wind, and use my body to protect the whole camera – I also make sure that I change lenses as quickly as possible, to leave the camera exposed for the shortest possible time.

Tripods, no matter how stable, can sink into the soft wet sand, so ensure they don't fall over, and lastly, be aware of the tide tables, check them on the internet, and don't get caught out by tides coming in fast whilst you're concentrating on pictures.

So next time you're at the beach, keep a lookout for other people's rubbish, which can become your art!

 

 

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