DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY NEWS FROM ePHOTOzine

As well as having practical uses, fisheye lenses can be a lot of fun. The distortion produced by this type of lens allows the user to take interesting, quirky shots of everyday objects, turning what can be quite simple shots into top creative captures. Plus, you don't have to own a fisheye lens for your DSLR to have a go at this technique as there are plenty of gadgets out there that will turn your Smart Phone images into fish-eye masterpieces. Here are 8 top examples of fisheye photography that you can take some inspiration from next time you're out with a really wide-angle lens. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Samsung Electronics today announced the launch of its new microSD Express card lineup, the P9 Express, designed to deliver next-gen gaming experiences and optimised for leading platforms, including the Nintendo Switch™ 2.

Based on the PCIe interface and NVMe protocol, SD Express technology significantly enhances data transfer performance compared to UHS-I cards, making it ideal for environments that demand high-capacity processing and fast data transmission.

The P9 Express is especially valuable for hardcore console gamers who frequently enjoy a diverse range of games and Downloadable Content (DLC), often demanding additional storage capacity beyond the internal storage. To meet different gaming needs, it is available in both 256GB and 512GB options. It also provides an ideal solution for multiple users sharing a single console, where ample capacity is required for several different game installations, helping gamers overcome limited internal storage and enjoy a wide variety of titles without compromise. When used with a dedicated SD Express interface, the P9 Express delivers sequential read speeds up to four times faster than UHS-I), enabling creators and professionals to efficiently move large volumes of data from devices to PCs, laptops, or workstations). This combination of high-speed performance and reliability makes the P9 Express an excellent choice for both immersive gaming experiences and demanding professional workflows, such as editing, rendering and managing large media files.

By leveraging ultra-fast transfer speeds, Host Memory Buffer (HMB) support, and advanced Dynamic Thermal Guard (DTG) technology, originally developed for SSDs, the P9 Express delivers a smooth gaming experience comparable to playing directly from internal storage. DTG technology intelligently monitors and regulates the card’s temperature, preventing overheating and maintaining consistent performance, even during long gaming sessions. HMB enhances performance by efficiently utilising the host system’s memory to accelerate data access, further improving responsiveness during gameplay. With maximum sequential read speeds of up to 800MB/s—up to four times faster than conventional UHS-I cards—this combination ensures stability, allowing gamers to stay fully immersed in gameplay without throttling or interruptions.

To protect valuable data—whether it’s saved game progress for gamers or large media files for creators and professionals—the P9 Express features safeguarding against water immersion, extreme temperatures, X-ray exposure, accidental drops, dust, and pressure. These robust protections ensure data integrity and sustainable performance, giving users peace of mind during extended gaming sessions as well as demanding professional workflows.

The 256GB and 512GB) models will be available for purchase in November. The manufacturer’s suggested retail prices (MSRPs) are £58.59 for the 256GB model and £99.99 for the 512GB model.

For more information — including warranty details — please visit the Samsung website.

 

Skylum, a leading innovator in photo editing software, announces the fall update for its award-winning image editing program Luminar Neo. This version includes powerful enhancements to existing features as well as innovative new additions such as a Luminar Neo ecosystem, Restoration, and an AI editing assistant.

 

New features in Luminar Neo software Luminar Neo Ecosystem and Spaces

With Luminar Neo Ecosystem, users' devices connect to form a powerful cross-device editing ecosystem. This allows users to access and edit images on any of their devices. Seamless transfer of photos and adjustments between mobile devices and desktops, for example, allows creatives to implement their initial ideas and inspirations directly on their mobile devices while on the go. Back at their desk, they can continue the work process.

With Spaces, hobbyists and professional photographers can share personalized, curated web galleries that inspire, connect, and bring their work to life with their community, customers, and other creatives—without needing their own website.

Available to Ecosystem Pass holders and with Cross-Perpetual and Max-Perpetual licenses.

 

Professional-quality photo restoration

A new photo restoration feature allows users to restore historical or aged photos that show cracks, stains, or discoloration. Monochrome, color-cast, or faded photos are given a new lease on life with natural colors. Users can breathe new life into their old, valuable family and souvenir photos, for example. All it takes is a scan—or even just a photo of the original.

Available to Ecosystem Pass holders, in the 2025/2026 Upgrade Pass, and in Cross-Perpetual and Max-Perpetual licenses.

 

AI Assistant: An intelligent chatbot provides editing tips

Another new feature is an AI Assistant integrated into Luminar Neo, which provides editing tips, shares inspiration, and assists with specific steps through continuous image analysis. If users get stuck or need creative inspiration, the assistant is there to help.

Available to Ecosystem Pass holders, in the 2025/2026 Upgrade Pass, and in Cross-Perpetual and Max-Perpetual licenses.

 

Free upgrade for all existing users: Light Depth

The AI-powered “Relight AI” feature, which specifically adjusts light and exposure in a photo to balance the subject and background, has been replaced by the new, even more powerful “Light Depth” feature. Lighting conditions can now be specifically adjusted to achieve a more dramatic effect. Users can add virtual light sources and move them three-dimensionally within the image space for a realistic effect.

Available to all users

 

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Availability and pricing

The new features and enhancements will be available in early November 2025 with the next product update.

• Existing customers can access the new Ecosystem with the Ecosystem Pass for €69. New customers can access the Cross-device Perpetual for €109 and Max Perpetual licenses for €129.

• Restoration and the AI Assistant are included in the Ecosystem Pass, the 2025/2026 Upgrade Pass for €49, and also in the Cross-device Perpetual and Max Perpetual licenses.

• The new Light Depth feature will be available to all users upon release.

• Owners of the Ecosystem Pass and the 2025/2026 Upgrade Pass can also look forward to the 2026 Spring Update in spring 2026.

For more information on prices and access, please visit the website.

 

Black Friday Special

• Existing customers: The Ecosystem Pass and the 2025/2026 Upgrade Pass are available at a 50% discount for a limited time.
• New customers can get the Cross-device Perpetual, Max Perpetual, and Desktop Perpetual licenses at a 77% discount for a limited time.

 

Luminar Neo is available for purchase on the official Skylum website, as well as in the Microsoft Store and the Apple Mac App Store.

For more information on pricing and subscriptions, visit the Skylum website.

The self-timer feature is something which is available on most camera models and it's a shutter delay that when activated, stops the shutter from firing and taking the picture when the shutter button or release is pressed for a designated amount of time. This delay is useful for a number of reasons which are listed below. 

 

1. Close-Up Work

The other advantage of having a timer is to save you having to use a cable release when the camera is mounted on a tripod or resting on a secure base. You set the timer and the delay means there's no hand contact that could potentially cause camera shake when the shutter is pressed. The 10-second delay is not really necessary for this, so that's where the shorter delays come in handy.

 

 

2. Self Portraits And Group Shots

The idea is you can take self-portraits without having to be seen stretched out as you fire the camera at arms' length. All you do is activate the timer, press the shutter release and move in front of the camera, strike a pose - all within the timer's limit - and then you'll be the focus of your photo.

It can also be used to ensure you're in a family or group shot. You can arrange a small or larger group of people and allow space for yourself, activate the timer and move into the shot. This saves you having to give the camera to the waiter or tourist to take the photo, preventing an embarrassment or even potential theft!

 

3. Low Light Photography 

As with close-up work, your camera's self-timer can be used to reduce the chances of camera shake spoiling your shots when working in low light. At this time of year, your self-timer will be useful in dark woodland where you may be photographing close-ups of fungi. Again, you won't need a really long delay, a couple of seconds will be fine. 

 

 

4. Check Your Focus

There are a few things to do to help improve your photos when using the self-timer. The first is ensuring accurate focus. If you're doing a self-portrait you won't be in the photo when you press the shutter and as a result, the picture could end up blurry as the camera could lock focus on the background. One way around this is to point the camera at something that is at the same distance that you will be when the photo is taken. Press the shutter release and recompose before running in front of the camera. In a group shot this is easy - make sure you either focus on a person to the side if you're going to be in the centre or focus on the centre person and join the group at the edge.

 

5. Check The Edges Of The Frame

The other thing to avoid is a table edge being in the frame when you are taking a group shot in a restaurant or bar and decide to use a nearby table as support. The camera, when set to wide-angle, may pick up an edge of the support. Move the camera so it's right at the edge of the table, making sure it's balanced well and cannot fall off!

Another problem you may be faced with when resting the camera on a flat surface is that the height may not be right when you look through the viewfinder and often the heads or feet of your group will be cut off. If this happens, try and angle the camera so all of your group is in the shot.

 

‘Forest’ by BathBun stood out in the Gallery this week, earning the title of ‘Photo of the Week’ (POTW).

This is a fantastic shot and a fine example of great photography. Taken along the Oregon coast, it presents a group of Sea Palms growing on rocks washed by the tide. The long exposure turns the rushing water into soft white streaks, giving the scene a dreamy, almost misty look. The dark forms of the Sea Palms rise above the flow, adding contrast and focus to the scene. The monochrome treatment enhances the mood, giving it an atmospheric and fascinating feel. It is well seen with great subject choice, fine balance and a well-deserved POTW.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2026, we’ll crown our 2025 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

 

Leading up to Halloween you may like to spend some time in your local graveyard... you will find plenty to photograph and much of it will be in the detail. You should remember that graveyards are, by their very nature, places that should be treated with respect, but don’t let that put you off: as long as you behave yourself you shouldn’t get into too much trouble.

  1. Kit Choices 

A zoom lens with close focusing capabilities will be useful and a tripod will certainly improve the quality of your pictures. If you fancy doing something a little more dramatic you could also consider using some 'off camera' lighting, either a flash or even a torch.
 

2. Detail Is King Here

First, look around for interesting details, there shouldn’t be any shortage of these. They could be stone, lichen or moss, text on the gravestones, sculpture, ironwork, trees or the flowers left on the graves. When you have found something that interests you, look at it carefully and decide how best to make a picture out of it. Consider where the light is coming from, what angle will best suit the subject and how tight you should frame it. It is these decisions that will make the pictures ‘work’ or not. If you are getting in really close then try using different apertures: isolating the detail by shooting wide open or stopping right down to get the subject sharp from front to back. 

 

3. Think About What Distractions 

When you are looking at detail, it is usually best to try and frame in such a way that there is no distraction in the foreground or background – unless you are making some specific use of them. To do this, you may need to get right in close. If your camera then struggles to find something to focus on, try switching to manual, focus as close as the lens will permit and then move the camera to get the subject sharp.

  4. Don't Be Afraid Of The Dark 

You can also get some spooky results by waiting until it is dark and then shooting with the camera on a tripod and ‘painting’ with a torch. Get the camera focused on what you want to photograph, a gravestone for instance, set the ISO to around 200 and the shutter to ‘B’ then do a test, open the shutter and ‘paint’ with your torch. With digital cameras, you can see the result straight away so review the picture and adjust the amount of time you take to do your ‘painting’. If your torch is not bright enough you might start to get problems with noise, but it is easier to get subtle shading if you have a little longer so don’t use a super bright torch. It may take a while to get it right, but it’s very rewarding when it works.   

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Arkwright (Day 18 - Backlight).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 19

Cross Polarisation

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  Day 20

Vista and View

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Day 21

Bad Weather Landscape

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Day 22

Kitchen Item

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  Day 23

'Busy' Theme

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Day 24

Town Architecture

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

  As photographers, when we think of mood, we think of stormy, dark and dramatic, but mood can equally relate to any lighting type that evokes a feeling. Photographically then, mood can readily be associated with weather conditions – calm and misty mornings, dramatic cloudy days with sunbeams and often, the most dramatic mood can be obtained on those days you might think offer less promise – as it only takes a break in stormy clouds to give a magnificent, moody image.

 

How To Capture Mood In Your Images

To capture dark and dramatic mood successfully, be prepared to wait for breaks in the weather, sometimes you just have to sit out the rainy spells – in the car if you're lucky; but when the weather breaks you can be rewarded with a few minutes really exciting lighting.

When the light does come, be prepared to work quickly. Good lighting doesn't wait for the photographer, and often its over just as quickly as it arrived, so think in advance whether you are going to need a graduated ND filter, or if you need to bracket the shot to put together an HDR (High Dynamic Range) picture. Don't wait for the light before considering that you need a filter or need to bracket exposures to cope with the contrast range, as when the light's gone – it's gone. Checking your histogram after the event to find that your exposure is wrong it's too late – you can't bring it back.

For misty, early morning moody images, again the weather forecast is an essential pre-planner – there is no point sleeping in to find that you've just missed a delicate, moody sunrise. Similarly, there is little point getting up early to find the weather isn't ideal.

The key to capturing mood is to pick the right day and location – as is all landscape photography, but the real secret is to be fully prepared for when the "mood" arrives.

Photo by Joshua Waller 

 

Objects which look like they’re growing out of people’s heads, unwanted ‘hot spots’, unsightly rubbish and general clutter are just some of the things which can spoil a shot thanks to them pulling attention away from your main subject. However, with a few simple adjustments, you can have clutter-free backgrounds that’ll leave all attention where it’s meant to be, as shown in the image below.

 

1. Make Sure You Check The Frame

Ok, it may seem like something rather obvious to list, however, it’s a simple step some of us forget to do, especially when we don’t have much time to take the shot. But taking the time to study the background of the frame can stop unsightly highlights and objects spoiling your shots.

 

2. If Possible, Remove Clutter

So, you’ve checked the frame and seen there are a few unsightly elements which means the next step is to remove them. In some places this can physically mean picking objects up and moving them out of frame, however, this isn’t always possible as you’re not always taking photos in locations where you can just pick up and move objects as you wish. When working in locations such as this, you’ll have to do one of the following that’s listed further down the page instead.

 

 

 

3. Move Locations Or Positions

Try hiding the distracting object with your subject or if it’s not possible, see if moving a couple of steps to the left or right may help. Again, it’s a simple and quite obvious thing to do but it can make a huge difference to the overall look of the final shot.

 

4. Be Patient

If you’re shooting in a busy town centre or in another location where there are lots of people walking through your shot, set your gear up, position your subject and just wait for your background to clear. If you have people trying to be a nuisance, pulling faces and generally being annoying in the background, just patiently wait for them to move on as they’ll get bored a lot sooner than you will.

 

5. Change Your Depth Of Field

Using a larger aperture to throw your background out of focus (and creating bokeh) can hide distracting objects and allow all attention to fall on your subject which is pin-sharp. However, areas that are overexposed and strong colours can still pull the eye towards them even if they are blurry so just be aware of that and check for any objects that may do this.

 

 

6. Adjust Your Zoom

Cropping some of the background out by using your zoom to pull your subject in so they fill the frame more will remove distracting objects and ensure your subject is the main point of focus.

 

7. Move Your Feet

Don’t just think you can use your zoom to get closer to your subject. Move your feet to find a different angle, a better background or to simply ‘zoom in’ closer to your subject.

 

Photo by Joshua Waller 

 

8. Use Simple Backgrounds

Plain walls, studio backgrounds and even the sky can be used as backgrounds and they won’t distract your viewer. For smaller items, use pieces of card, paper or material as backgrounds which you can slip behind your subject, hiding whatever unsightly items are behind it.

 

9. Change Your Angle

If you can’t move your subject you’ll have to move. Try shooting from a lower position so you can use the sky, for example.

 

10. Edit In Post Production

Even though it’s always best to get it right in camera, you can edit your shots during post-production to fix your background. You can, among many other things, clone, crop, remove backgrounds completely and adjust brightness levels of all or parts of your shots. Take a look at ePHOTOzine’s techniques for more editing tips.

 

Image Credit: Society of International Nature and Wildlife Photographers (SINWP)

 

The Society of International Nature and Wildlife Photographers (SINWP) is urging photographers worldwide to submit their best bird images now - the Bird Photographer of the Year 2025 competition closes on 31 October 2025.

This prestigious contest, run in aid of the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB), has raised over £16,138 to date through past competitions.

With entry priced at a minimum of £1 per image, 100% of donations go directly to the RSPB to support their vital work in protecting avian wildlife and habitats.

“We are thrilled by the response so far, but time is running out,” said Colin Jones, SINWP CEO. “We strongly encourage all bird photographers - from hobbyists to professionals - to enter their best work before the deadline. Together, we can make a significant contribution to the RSPB and elevate awareness of birds and their conservation.”

 

Key Competition Details

Closing date: 31 October 2025

Entry fee: Minimum £1 per image (no maximum)

Prizes: The overall winner receives the Bird Photographer of the Year 2025 trophy and certificate, one year’s free professional membership of SINWP, a copy of the Anthropics Collection, among other rewards.

 

For details on how to enter see here https://sinwp.com/bird/

If you’ve been waiting for the right time to upgrade your action camera, this might be it. DJI’s new Osmo Action 5 Pro Essential Combo has just dropped in price, and it’s easily one of the most capable compact cameras we’ve seen this year. With waterproofing, class-leading stabilization and crisp dual touchscreens, it’s built for anyone who wants to capture life’s fast moments without the bulk or cost of a full setup.

This deal is time-sensitive and stock may fluctuate rapidly.

View this deal here - Click here to view / purchase the DJI Osmo Action 5 Pro Essential Combo on Amazon

Why this deal matters: You get DJI’s latest 1/1.3″ sensor, dual OLED touchscreens, advanced stabilization, and waterproof capability in a more minimalist, cost-optimized package.

What We Like

• Pro-grade imaging in compact form – The 1/1.3″ sensor (with ~2.4 µm effective pixel size) gives you better low-light performance and an improved dynamic range over older action cams. Amazon
• Dual OLED touchscreens – Front and rear displays make framing, monitoring, and adjusting settings far more intuitive (especially for vlogging or POV mounting). Amazon
• Top-tier stabilization / horizon correction – DJI’s 360° HorizonSteady keeps your footage level even through aggressive motion. Amazon
• Waterproof & rugged – Rated IP68 to 20 m without a case, enabling you to go underwater or in the elements straight away. Amazon
• Decent battery life in cold / extreme conditions – The included Extreme Battery Plus (1,950 mAh) is quoted to last ~4 hours (3.6 hours at –20 °C) in constrained conditions. Amazon

Things to Watch Out / Caveats

• Essential bundle only – You get core components (camera, battery, frame, mount) — no extra accessories (e.g. extra batteries, filters) are included. Buyers wanting a full kit may find the “Adventure / Pro” bundles more complete.
• Price volatility — Because this is a new release, prices and stock may vary quickly; what’s true now may shift tomorrow.
• Regional warranty / import risk — If buying from Amazon US (or a non-local retailer), check warranty coverage and shipping / import fees for your region.
• Lens / accessories ecosystem still expanding — While DJI’s action ecosystem is mature, some niche accessories or third-party mounts may lag behind more established brands.

Performance & Use-Case Expectations

From DJI’s specs and our understanding of similar models:

• For action sports, motorcycling, biking, surfing, skiing — this camera should deliver smooth, stable footage with horizon correction, even in challenging light.
• For vlogging / POV shooting, the dual screens and voice commands give you more flexibility than many prior action cams.
• For underwater / extreme environments, the IP68 rating allows direct use without housing, but for deeper dives or rugged conditions you might still prefer a protective housing.
• For hybrid content creators who mix action clips with B-roll / studio content — it’s a solid companion, though image quality will still be behind larger sensor mirrorless cameras in low light.

If you don’t need the advanced features (dual screens, stabilization, 4K/120), a more basic action cam may suffice — but this deal narrows the premium gap.

Who Should Buy & Who Might Wait

Buy now if you:

• Want a premium action cam without paying for full “Pro / Adventure” bundles.
• Regularly shoot in motion, extreme angles, or want excellent stabilization.
• Value compact form + versatile mounting over carrying large rigs.

Consider waiting if you:

• Already own a capable action cam and only need incremental improvement.
• Want more included accessories out of the box.
• Are cautious of buying from overseas sellers (warranty / returns risk).

Check the Deal Here

Click here to view / purchase the DJI Osmo Action 5 Pro Essential Combo on Amazon

Prices and availability are subject to change — always verify before ordering.

Final Thoughts

This is a strong entry-level “Pro” deal not the full package, but enough to unlock many of DJI’s headline features at a leaner cost. For creators who don’t want to carry extra gear, the Essential Combo makes smart trade-offs.

If you spot a better regional offer (UK / EU) or see stock changing, drop a comment below and we’ll update if a better deal emerges.

ePhotozine may earn a commission from qualifying purchases via our links.

The zoom lengths on compact cameras keep growing and even though this makes more photographic subjects accessible to compact users, it does bring one problem and that's camera shake.

Manufacturers do install modes and features to help combat the issue, such as the shake reduction, but there are still a number of things that you can do to ensure your images are sharp every time.

 

1. Use A Support

When you think of a camera that sits on a tripod your first thoughts will probably be of a DSLR but just because you're using a camera with a body much smaller than a DSLR doesn't mean you shouldn't use a support. This can be a tripod, monopod, something smaller such as a Gorilla Pod or even a beanbag. 
 

 

2. Use Your Camera's Self-Timer

Even when you're using a support the small action of pressing the shutter button can still move the camera slightly and cause shake. As a result, when shooting a static subject you can use your camera's self-timer function so there's a delay between you pressing the shutter button and the exposure beginning. 
 

3. Increase The ISO

As longer shutter speeds mean the camera has to be held still for longer periods of time, shake can be a problem, particularly when working hand-held. To increase the shutter speed you can switch to a higher ISO but do take care when increasing ISOs as noise will be introduced at some levels. Where possible, try to stay below ISO400. If long shutter speeds are a must, always use a support as working without one will just result in shake spoiling your shots.
 

4. Check The Image On Your LCD

As images can be previewed on the built-in LCD screens available on compact cameras it means that shots can be checked for sharpness before leaving the location you're shooting in. However, it's not always that easy to tell if a shot is sharp by just checking the screen so if your camera has the option, it's always worth using the zoom magnifier when previewing to get a closer look at the shot. 

 

 

5. Edit In Post Production

You can slightly sharpen images in various pieces of editing software but don't overdo it as the shot won't look right. Boosting the contrast a little can help as well, but again don't go too mad with it. There are ways to reduce noise, too if high noise is a problem. 

A – Aperture

When it comes to picking an aperture, you don't want to go too wide as this will shorten your shutter speeds so choose an aperture around f/8 or f/11 to start and go from there.

 

 

B – Bulb

Using the BULB setting will keep the shutter open until you take your finger off the shutter button (this is when a release is handy as you can keep the shutter open without having to touch the camera). This can be useful for light trails as you'll be able to take more control over the length of the exposure, stopping and starting it more precisely.

 

C – Compact Camera

If you're an owner of a newer compact camera you may be thinking you won't be able to try this technique but you could be wrong as many modern compacts now offer longer shutter speed ranges.

 

D – DSLR

Even though you can use a compact you're probably still better using a DSLR or an advanced smaller camera that has the power of a DSLR without the body size. This way you can guarantee you'll have the longer shutter speeds needed, plus the option of using Bulb mode (model depending).

 

E – Exposure times

There's no exposure time that's set in stone for this technique so you'll need to experiment until you find a shutter speed that gives you the results you're looking for. Although, a 10-30-second exposure should capture light trails perfectly.

 

F – Find A Location

It's often worth scouting for locations in the daytime so you're not wasting time when the sun's setting searching for ideal spots.

 

Photo by David Pritchard

 

G – Guide The Eye

Compositional rules still apply here so don't forget the power of using lead-in lines in your shots. The light trails can be used as a line to lead the eye through the image to a point of interest which could be a town, city or building glowing in the background.

 

H – Height

Find a spot, after the sun begins to set, where vehicles will pass under/by you with their lights on. The most obvious is a bridge but any high vantage point will work. You could also find a spot that looks over a road that winds down the side of a hill so car lights are turned into sweeping s shapes. 

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

 

I – In The Car

Give the light trail technique an extra twist by shooting from a moving car. Obviously, you can't drive and control the camera at the same time so you'll need a willing friend to help you with this technique. For more tips on this form of light trail photography, have a read of this: Photographing Light Trails From A Car

 

J – Juxtaposition

To really create a sense of movement and pace, shoot your light trails in a built-up area where you can juxtapose still buildings, trees and other objects with the light trails created by traffic.

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

 

K – Keep Checking The LCD

As you'll be experimenting with shutter speeds you should view your images on the LCD screen after capture to see if the shutter speed you used was long enough. For example, you may find the light trail ends half way through the image rather than carrying on until the car has exited the frame which means you need a slightly longer exposure time to capture the full length of the light trails.

 

L – Low ISO

Keep your ISO as low as possible (100 if you can) so noise doesn't cause you too many problems.

 

M – Mount Your Camera On A Support

Due to the length of the shutter speeds you need to use some kind of support. A Tripod's best but you can use a monopod if you prefer.

 

N – Night

You may think that well after the sun has set is a good time for capturing images of light trails and there's nothing wrong with capturing shots at this time, however twilight and just after the sun has set can produce some rather cracking results. Not only will there be more ambient light but there will also be more traffic around which means more chances to get the shot right.

 

Photo by David Pritchard

 

O – Overexposed

Keep an eye out for spots of light such as street lamps overexposing as these bright dots of light spoil your images.

 

P – Patience

You can't expect to set-up, press the shutter and have the perfect shot so patience is very important for this technique. You could find yourself waiting a while for traffic to actually pass through your frame or for the ambient light to be just right, plus with the trail and error approach you could be outside a while.

 

 

Q – Traffic Queues

Find points in your town where you can guarantee large amounts of traffic will flow through. Crossroads can be perfect as they will create lines that criss-cross and move around each other in various directions.

 

R – Roundabouts

Instead of straight lines, why not set-up near or above a roundabout which will give you the opportunity to capture circular patterns of light in your shots.

 

S – Street Level

To give your light trail shots a different twist, don't head for a high vantage point. Instead, take a stroll around the streets, looking for locations where you'll be able to capture light trails from lower angles.

 

Photo by David Clapp

 

T – Trigger – Remote Or Cable

To reduce camera shake, trigger your camera without actually touching it via a remote / cable release. If you don't have one, you can use your camera's self-timer on its shortest setting.

 

U – Underexposed

If you find the shot's underexposed open up the aperture and just make it smaller if it's too bright. Try not to go too wide with your apertures, though, as this will result in more of the shot appearing out of focus. If you find the light trails to be too short you'll need to use a longer shutter speed to extend them through your shot.

 

V – Very Warm Clothing

Don't forget your warm clothing as temperatures are starting to drop lower as we head towards winter.
 

W – Wide-Angle Lens

If you're working from a car, you need to fix the camera, with a wide-angle lens on a tripod into the passenger seat well or back seat of the car. This will mean you'll be able to see the whole windscreen through the viewfinder. When using wider lenses out in the field for this technique, a lens hood will be useful for shielding the lens from ambient light.

 

X – X-Factor

Light trail photography is a great way to add drama and punch to your night-time urban shots and with a little practice, it's rather simple to master.

 

Photo by David Clapp

 

Y – You Should Consider Using Manual Focus

Due to the low light level and lack of contrast, your camera lens may end up continuously searching if you try to use auto focus so switch to manual for more control.

 

Z – Zooming & Panning

Get creative and experiment with zoom or try panning after pressing the shutter to introduce different effects. After all, this is a fun technique, plus you want to capture something original.  

 

   

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

© Ralph Robinson / Nikon Comedy Wildlife Awards

 

Nikon has revealed the highly anticipated shortlist for the 2025 Nikon Comedy Wildlife Awards. This year’s selection consists of 40 standalone images, 3 portfolio entries and 10 video entries – a captivating mix of inspiring and delightfully funny images, reminding us of the world’s most beguiling wildlife.

Among the colourful contenders for funniest wildlife image of 2025 is a dancing gorilla, a choir of lions and a quick-thinking frog on lookout duty! This year, there are also 10 amazing videos of wildlife’s most comical moments caught on camera, with highlights including a surfing heron and an orangutan getting up to mischief. The expert judges will be busy over the coming weeks deciding their favourite comedy critters.

The world’s most entertaining wildlife photography competition received a record number of entries this year. With nearly 10,000 submissions from 108 countries received, they all compete to win top prizes, including Nikon’s Z6III full-frame mirrorless camera, Z50II mirrorless camera and Nikon’s brand-new compact cinema camera, the ZR. The winner will also secure a once in a lifetime, one-week safari trip courtesy of Alex Walker's Serian in the Masai Mara, as well as some of the best-selling photography rucksacks in the business from ThinkTANK.

Founded in 2015 by photographers Paul Joynson-Hicks MBE and Tom Sullam, the awards combine exceptional wildlife photography with the power of humour to spotlight conservation. Every image is authentic, with no AI or digital manipulation allowed.

Comedy Wildlife is teaming up again with sustainable conservation organisation, the Whitley Fund for Nature (WFN), which over the past thirty years has invested £24 million in 220 conservation leaders in 80 countries. An inspiring effort which the awards are thrilled to champion.

Stefan Maier, Nikon Europe Senior General Manager Marketing says: “The Nikon Comedy Wildlife finalists are in, and we’re excited to share with you the brilliant images showcasing unique talent of photographers from every corner of the globe. These images combine wit and wonder to celebrate nature’s character, while emphasising the urgency of conservation. At Nikon, we’re proud to support a competition that sparks joy while reminding us why our wild world is worth protecting.”

Tom Sullam, Comedy Wildlife Competition Co-founder says: “We had an awesome year last year and are absolutely delighted to be able to partner with the Nikon team again for 2025. Their ongoing support has supercharged the competition, reaching more people in more countries than ever before, helping us raise awareness of animal and habitat conservation and crucially, highlight the fundamental importance of having wildlife on our planet and in our lives. These inspiring and funny photos and videos do just that. It’s a privilege to be part of this exciting journey, making us all laugh and we can’t wait to announce the winners in December.”

The Overall Winner, Category and Highly Commended Winners will be announced on Tuesday 9th December at a special awards evening in London. This will be followed by a one-week, free exhibition from 10th-16th December, where Nikon will showcase the 2025 Award Finalists at the Gallery@Oxo.

 

© Alison Tuck / Nikon Comedy Wildlife Awards

 

Competition categories include: 

• Alex Walker’s Serian Mammals Category 
• Spectrum Photo Birds Category 
• ThinkTANK Reptiles and Amphibians Category 
• Fish and Other Aquatic Species 
• Insects Category 
• Nikon Young Photographer (up to 25yrs.) 
• Nikon Junior Category (up to 16 yrs.) 
• Amazing Internet Portfolio Category 
• Nikon Video Category 

 

This year’s shortlist is being reviewed by Nikon Creators Cameron Whitnall, Hannah Stitfall and Roxy Hemadani. They’ll be joined by TV presenter Kate Humble, actor and comedian Hugh Dennis, renowned wildlife photographer Will Burrard-Lucas and Nikon Ambassador Daisy Gilardini, as well as wildlife expert and co-founder of the Born Free Foundation, Will Travers OBE, and passionate conservationist, Bella Lack.

For more details, please visit the official Nikon Comedy Wildlife Awards website.

The Fujifilm X-T30 III in the hands of Will Cheung at a pre-launch event held at Fujifilm’s House of Photography.

 

Fujifilm’s popular line-up of X Series cameras has a model for every conceivable type of image-maker from entry-level shooter to high-end multi-media producer. 

The new X-T30 III replaces the X-T30 II, which is no longer in production and naturally retains key attractions of its predecessor including the same compact dimensions and rangefinder-style design. Equally naturally, the new model has several important features and performance upgrades which we will cover in this First Look.

The target consumer for the X-T30 III is predominately the stills photographer who wants a fully featured but lightweight camera to record their family, travel and daily snaps. Introduced alongside the X-T30 III is the XC13-33mm f/3.5-6.3 OIS zoom, which has a full-frame equivalent range of 20-50mm, and of course, it can be partnered with any interchangeable lens X Series camera. 

The X-T30 III is competitively priced at £829 / $999 body only or £999 / $1149 with the XC 13-33mm f/3.5-6.3 OIS lens.

 

The stylish X-T30 III will be available in three finishes: Black, Charcoal Silver and Silver. Body price is £829 / $999 and the X-T30 III kit with the XC13-33mm f/3.5-6.3 OIS zoom lens is £999 / $1149.

 

Fujifilm X-T30 III Features

The X-T30 III is an APS-C format 26.1 megapixel camera in a rangefinder-style body. The sensor is the tried and tested back-illuminated X-Trans CMOS 4 and it is partnered with the high-speed X-Processor 5 processing engine. This processor can process pictures twice as quickly as the previous model and uses the latest subject detect autofocus, which uses deep learning technology. The system can automatically recognise and track human subjects but it can also detect a wide range of subject types including animals, birds, airplanes, cars and insects. Performance with humans has been enhanced to cope with people wearing glasses or masks. The X-T30 III uses an improved, 5th generation AF algorithm, the same as that used in the flagship X-HS2. This algorithm can deal especially effectively with moving and small subjects.

 

The X-T30 III shares the familial look of Fujifilm X-T models and build quality rates highly especially considering its budget price tag of £829 / $999 body only.

 

Film Simulation picture settings have played a major part in the success of Fujifilm cameras, so it’s no surprise to see them playing a key role in the X-T30 III. It has 20 Film Simulations including Reala Ace, and while these settings can be accessed traditionally via the menu, this camera allows instant access to them using a dedicated control dial. This has six permanently assigned simulations, three positions that can be populated as desired with personal favourite recipes and quality settings and one setting that mirrors the picture style assigned in the menu. The dedicated dial makes it incredibly easy to add individualism to your shots as you shoot with the dial a constant reminder of what picture mode you have set and what’s on offer.

 

The X-T30 II’s menu structure will be familiar to Fujifilm X-series users and newcomers will soon get to grips with the easy to navigate layout. Control layout is also typically Fujifilm and the buttons and dials are reassuringly positive in use.

 

For users who prefer ease of use, an Auto Mode Selector delegates the camera to detect the scene and set optimal shooting settings for the best results. Auto is one option and there are 14 others including portrait, landscape, night, fireworks and flowers.

For those users looking to shoot action and nature, the X-T30 III can shoot at impressive burst speeds while pre-shot capture is available too. A burst speed of 30fps is possible with a 1.25x crop using the electronic shutter and this drops to 20fps with the full format. Select the mechanical shutter and burst speed is still an impressive 8fps and you’ll get 38 shots using lossless compressed Raw. Pre-shot capture with the electronic shutter works from 8fps for full-format images up to 30fps with a 1.25x crop.

While the X-T30 III is primarily aimed at still shooters, it still has a rich vein of video features that include 6.2K video at 24, 25 and 30P, 4K at 24, 25, 30, 50 and 60P and Full HD at 240P, and video can be shot with digital image stabilisation for smooth footage even when shooting while walking.

 

Turn the camera on and you get a warning to twist the XC13-33mm f/3.5-6.3 OIS to its working position. On its own the lens weighs in at just 125g and sells for £329 / $399.

 

Fujifilm X-T30 III Key Features

• Prices: £829 / $999 body only, X-T30 III with the XC 13-33mm f/3.5-6.3 OIS lens £999 / $1149, XC 13-33mm f/3.5-6.3 OIS £329 / $399
• Available from November 2025
• Black, Charcoal Silver or Silver options
• APS-C format
• Back-illuminated 26.1MP X-Trans CMOS 4 sensor
• X-Processor 5
• Mechanical shutter 30secs to 1/4000sec
• Electronic shutter 30secs to 1/32,000sec
• Face/eye detection AF
• Subject detection automatically recognises animals, birds, cars, motorcycles, bicycles, airplanes, trains, insects, and drones
• Native ISO range 160-12,800, extendable to ISO 80-51,200
• 20 Film Simulation modes including Reala Ace and Nostalgic Neg
• Accepts 1xSD UHS-I card
• 425 frames from a fully charged battery (economy mode)
• Rear 3in LCD monitor 1.62million dots
• 6.2/30P internal recording in 4:2:2 10-bit quality
• High speed video at 4K/60P and 1080/240P
• Built-in pop-up flash GN7/ISO 200/m
• Body measures 118.4 x 82.8 x 46.8mm
• Weighs 338g with battery and SD card

 

Fujifilm X-T30 III Handling

The X-T30 III’s control design follows in the footsteps of previous X Series cameras and means key settings are visible immediately. The Auto setting brings in optimal settings for a wide variety of subjects automatically including portrait, portrait enhancer, landscape, night, fireworks, snow, flowers and text.

 

There is much to like about the X-T30 III’s handling, not least the fact that it’s like putting on your favourite slippers. I own several Fujifilm X-T cameras and have used and tested all the models over many years, so picking up the X-T30 III, everything felt comfortable with key controls exactly where you expect to find them. Clearly, the target market for this camera will not have the same deep association with X Series cameras but the X-T30 III’s design and layout is so clean that familiarity won’t take long. The same level of usability applies to the camera’s menu which is straightforward to navigate and not too deep.

Good handling starts with the on/off switch, which is perfectly placed for the right forefinger, so you can walk around with the finger poised ready to flick the camera on and by the time it is raised to the eye, you’re ready to grab the shot. 

 

No problems with the X-T30 III’s handling. The contoured handgrip provides a secure purchase and it’s no problem just walking around with the camera in hand ready to shoot. Control design and layout also rate highly making the whole package great to use.

 

One key design innovation over its popular predecessor is the provision of a dedicated Film Simulation dial, which sits on the far left of the body. With six permanent settings and four slots that you can fill as you please, that means ten of the 20 available Film Simulations are instantly available to call on.

I had the XC13-33mm f/3.5-6.3 OIS to try with the X-T30 III. This lens, equivalent to 20-50mm in full-frame, is a manual retracting zoom and in its parked state, it really is quite small and it doesn’t grow much when extended to its working position. It works well and AF with the X-T30 III was accurate and swift. Its Optical Image Stabiliser has a 4-stop benefit. The X-T30 III itself does not have an in-body image stabiliser.

 

Portability rates highly in the X-T30 III with its light, compact body. Here it is shown partnered with the new XC13-33mm f/3.5-6.3 OIS, a compact manual zoom with the wide end giving the full-frame equivalent of 20mm.

 

Fujifilm X-T30 III Sample Photos Previous Next

 

Please note that the photographs shot for this First Look were taken with a pre-production camera and the firmware of production cameras that go on sale in November might be different. The lens used was the XC13-33mm f/3.5-6.3 OIS lens, again a pre-production sample.

I shot JPEGs and Raws for this preview but only out of camera JPEGs are shown here because there was no Raw processor available at the time.

 

The X-T30 III features a dedicated Film Simulation mode dial with six fixed presets. Around its base, there’s a lever to activate the integral flash.

 

Standard/Provia

 

V Vivid/Velvia

 

S Soft/Astia

 

CC Classic Chrome

 

RA Reala Ace

 

A Acros

 

Fujifilm X-T30 III Film Simulation modes

The X-T30 III has a complement of 20 Film Simulation modes which includes the filter variants in the monochrome settings. The dedicated Film simulation dial has six permanent presets: STD Standard/Provia; V Vivid/Velvia; S Soft/Astia; CC: Classic Chrome; RA Reala Ace; A Acros. Three FS settings let you set other modes you enjoy using and the C mode is for the mode selected within the Film Simulation menu. The long and the short of it is that you have instant access to ten of the 20 available colour settings. Within the bracketing menu, there is the usual option of producing three shots with different colour settings at one shutter button push.

As expected, the Film Simulations performed to the usual high standard as you can see from the sample shots taken at the six fixed settings below. The sample JPEGs were taken with the XC13-33mm f/3.5-6.3 OIS lens at 33mm with an exposure of 1/240s at f/6.3 and ISO 1000 – it was a very dull day!

 

Fujifilm X-T30 III ISO Previous Next

 

The sample camera we used was pre-production so not suitable for a full ISO test. However, to give us some idea of the camera’s performance in this key area, we did shoot a scene at a range of speeds. The resulting files are out of camera JPEGs taken a default level of in-body noise reduction.

A full ISO test will have to wait for a production sample of the X-T30 III but we were impressed with what we found. The level of noise even at ISO 12,800 was well controlled and didn’t impact on image quality greatly, as you can see from the enlarged sections below. Colours looked good with the standard Provia Film Simulation mode and detail looked crisp and nicely rendered.

 

Fujifilm X-T30 III Initial Verdict

The Fujifilm X-T30 III promises to be an excellent camera at a budget-busting price. It’s sure to appeal to budding creatives and newcomers to mirrorless plus it will also attract more experienced photographers wanting a great value and well specified camera. Existing X-System users might also consider the X-T30 III as a capable back-up body.

Whatever the situation, the X-T30 III has all the credentials you would expect of a Fujifilm X Series camera and of course, it buys you entry into the brand’s eco-system with the support of a huge range of lenses. Speaking of which, the new XC13-33mm f/3.5-6.3 OIS is an interesting proposition with its 20mm (35mm equivalent) wide end, and its compact stature makes it a fine companion for this camera and others within the Fujifilm range.

Visit our Equipment Database to see more images of the Fujifilm X-T30 III along with specs. 

 

Britain is full of wildlife, and autumn's a great time to get out and capture a few shots of the small mammals, birds, deer and other creatures that can be found here.
 

1. Birds

As we head towards winter it gets harder for birds to find natural food so by placing feeders in your garden with different types of food in (fat and nuts) you'll be able to attract different species of bird that you can photograph. An important side note to remember is to not remove the feeders when you've finished as the birds may have become reliant on your garden as a source of food.

Capturing shots of these small, shy creatures isn't as easy as dashing out into your garden with your camera and snapping a quick shot. You need to place branches near feeders to give you more natural-looking shots, wait patiently and quietly for your subject to land and you'll need to know your gear well before heading out onto your lawn. Long lenses are essential if you want to capture frame-filling shots and for pin-sharp images, a tripod is a must.

For more in-depth tips on photographing birds, take a look at these articles:

• Photographing Garden Birds
• How To Photograph Birds In Your Garden
• Tips On Photographing Garden Birds
• Tips On Photographing Robins

  2. Spiders And Webs

Spiders seem to be everywhere at this time of year and they make great photographic subjects themselves (if you don't mind getting close) but for those who like to keep a bit more distance, have a go at photographing their webs instead. They're very photogenic on a frosty morning or after it's rained. For more tips, take a look at this technique: Spider Web Photography.
 

 

3. Mammals

Many of the mammals, big and small, are shy so long lenses, patience and the ability to stay hidden are generally a must when photographing them.

Squirrels, who'll be on the hunt for food at this time of year, are a popular photographic subject but do take something waterproof with you when heading out to photograph them as you can end up laying on the damp ground to get a shot of them foraging for food. Using bait is a good way to attract squirrels and you can place it in front of less busy backgrounds so you capture a better-looking shot. Fore more squirrel photography tips, take a look at this article: Photographing Red Squirrels.

It's mating season for deer which means there are plenty of action shots waiting to be captured of males fighting. Their antlers look particularly impressive at this time of year and their shape can look great when silhouetted against the morning light. Throw in some mist and autumnal shades and you have the recipe for a successful wildlife shoot starting to come together. You will need a long lens so you don't spook them and it's safer for you to work with quite a bit of distance between you and your subject anyway. Remember to approach from downwind and if you have it, camouflage clothing will help you blend in with your surroundings more.

October to December is breeding season for a lot of seal colonies around the shores of Britain and this is when they come to shore, making locations like Donna Nook on the east coast very popular with wildlife photographers. If you are planning a trip to photograph pups and their mothers please always put the animals' welfare first and respect the location you're photographing. You'll generally need a telephoto lens to capture a decent image, although some seals can be found close to paths. Take a monopod if you're planning on walking and don't always shoot from a standing position as getting low down will give your shots a better perspective.

For more seal photography tips, take a look at these articles:

• Photographing Seals
• Seal Photography  

 

Architecture photography is something that's accessible to all and with so many ways to capture structures that line our streets, it's a project that you probably won't get bored of anytime soon. You can shoot skylines at night, look for interesting patterns in small detail, use the height of skyscrapers to add drama to your shots or how about simply making a project about your own home? Don't just think this is a town or city project either as you'll find interesting structures at the coast as well as statues and monuments that are well worth capturing images of. Whatever you decide to do, here are 36 tutorials crammed full of tips to help you improve your architectural photography skills. 

 

1. 6 Top Architectural Night Photography Tips

When buildings are illuminated at night their shapes and features are enhanced in a very different way than by daylight and it's a great time to take photographs. The most challenging thing is getting the exposure and colour balance right, which we'll help with, otherwise, the standard rules of composition apply which we'll cover briefly first.

 

2. Tips On Taking Photos From Heights In Cities

The beauty with photography is you're not restricted with how you can take a photograph. You can play with as many lights as you can afford, add filters, gels and play with numerous other gadgets to alter the look of your photograph. But even though there are all these toys waiting to be played with, one of the simplest ways to change the way your image looks is to get up high.
 

3. Why Stairs & Steps Draw People To Photograph Them

Stairs and steps may sound boring, however, when you start thinking about the materials they're made from and the shapes and styles that exist, you'll soon realise there's plenty of steps to keep you and your camera occupied. Be it a graphical shot of an industrial set of steps leading up the side of a metal structure or a spiral staircase in a grand house, if you keep your eyes open, you'll soon realise there are many interesting sets of steps and stairs around you that will make an interesting image.

 

4. Guide To Capturing Better City Skyline Shots

City life's not for everyone but as the sun begins to set find yourself a vantage point where you can see most of the city skyline and you'll soon have a photograph that may make you rethink your dislike for cities. One of the best times for photographing city skylines is when the sun's begun to set so there's still a touch of blue in the sky but the light's not too harsh so make sure you're on your chosen vantage point well before sunset.

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

 

5. Nine Top Tips For Better Bridge Photography

Most of us use bridges every single day and while it is true that many - big and small, old and new - of them aren’t worth photographing, there are a great many that are extremely photogenic. These are impressive structures that often dominate the area in which they are situated.

 

6. Capturing The Best Of Britain's Architecture 

Britain's bursting with structures and buildings that photographers are naturally drawn to thanks to their postcard-perfect looks and history. It also helps that many of the buildings are in locations that are perfect for a day out, making them subjects photographers can shoot and their families can enjoy too.

 

7. Master Urban Abstracts With These 8 Tips

Capture something you may not have normally noticed by shooting abstracts in the city. To help you out, here are a few tips to get you thinking more creatively about buildings and how you can focus on patterns, textures and shape rather than the structure as a whole. 

 

8. Four Top Tips On Exploring The Urban Jungle

For many of us, when we decide to get out and about with our cameras we automatically turn to the countryside. But with the majority of the population living within easy reach of a major Town or City, is that really the right decision? It’s great fun just walking around a city taking shots of literally everything but if you want to capture great images you need to go with a plan and a bag of kit including a couple of lenses and a tripod.

 

 

9. Give Your City Shots A Creative Twist With These 6 Tips

Thanks to modern architecture that favours glass and steel over bricks and mortar cities are full of reflections which give us an alternative way to photograph the places we live in. 

 

10. Five Tips On Shooting Beach Huts Shots With A Twist

Who said the buildings and structures you capture only have to be inland? Beach huts are a popular feature of the British coastline and provide photographers with colourful detail that's often overlooked. While many of us shoot with a wide-angle and get the huts dramatically stacked in a row under a broody sky there's an alternative option of moving in close for a more abstract shot.

 

11. Seven Easy Ways To Improve Your Stately Home Shots

Stately homes are, in many cases, open to the public. Some are still lived in, with sections cordoned off from public viewing, but the rest is accessible, often with restrictions - no touching, often no flash and sometimes no photography. For those properties that do allow photography, you have the opportunity to photograph grand designs, walls with magnificent paintings, and rooms with exquisite furniture and other items.

 

12. How To Approach Statue Photography In 5 Steps

From the earliest known relic, some 8000 years old, to the latest metallic monstrosities, statues are waiting to be photographed. You could visit a museum or sculpture park but as statues decorate our city streets, local parks and even churchyards, you don't have to venture too far if you don't want to. 

 

 

13. Learn How To Capture Cracking Castle Shots

Want to bring a bit of history and heritage to life? Well, capturing images of one of our many castles is a good way to start. Here are a few tips to help you perfect your castle photography technique. 

 

14. How To Capture Top Shots Of Historical Buildings

When we think of historical buildings we often think of castles and churches, but there's much more to explore. Our towns and villages are brimming with architectural delights from banks to factories to inns and market halls, all waiting to be photographed outside and sometimes (if you're lucky) inside. All you need is a little local knowledge

 

15. Photographing Lighthouse Details

Zooming in with a telephoto and picking on detail is fun to do, plus it's a great way to capture lighthouse shots with an original twist. 

 

16. Five Top Tips On Photographing Bridges

Here are 5 more essential tips on photographing the bridges that dominate our towns, cities and countryside. We look at what time of day is best, what lenses to use, how to give your shots a creative edge and more. 

 

 

17. Tips On Photographing Stained Glass Windows

Stained glass windows are a photogenic subject but they can be a nightmare to photograph. Here are a few tips to help you perfect your technique.

 

18. Photographing Church Interiors

To make the most of what our churches have to offer we have to get inside them which can be trickier than you think. Larger churches and cathedrals may have photographic restrictions (a fee payable to use a tripod, no flash etc.) and certain opening hours but generally smaller, local churches are more willing to give you access any time of the day. 

 

19. Even More Tips On Creative Capturing Castle Shots 

From ruined hill forts to beautifully preserved country houses, castles provide majestic architectural delight that we look in more detail here. 

 

20. Photographing Textures On Buildings

Towns and cities are great places for hunting down textures and once you start looking at detail rather than buildings as a whole, you'll soon find a variety of textures to fill your memory card with. Walls, steps, doors, sheds, modern metal structures, roof tiles and windows are just some of the locations you'll find interesting textures at. 

 

 

21. Church Photography In Low Light

Turn your attention to the local church – or at least one that is lit up. Not every church is so you may have to drive around to find one if you do not already know of a suitable location.

 

22. Tips On Creating HDR Exposures In Churches

Church interiors are difficult to photograph because they usually have huge bright windows and dark nooks and crannies with the rest being a mix of tones illuminated by tungsten light or candles. Fortunately, with digital photography and modern software, there is a solution, it's called HDR (high dynamic range) photography.

 

23. How To Shoot Wide Angle Shots In Cities And Towns

Take a short walk through your town and you'll find a thousand and one things to photograph but instead of walking around for hours photographing trees, postboxes and buildings one at a time try getting your wide-angle lens out to capture and emphasise a wider area of the town.

 

24. Photographing Night-Time Urban Scenes

The nights are drawing in again which means most of us are now driving home from work in the dark. It's a stark reminder that winter's on its way but all's not that bad as it does mean you can shoot some nighttime shots in and around your town before you head home for your evening meal.

 

 

25. Twilight City Photography Tips

Head to a city as the sun sets and get ready to capture twilight themed imagery that will give your architectural shots an interesting, creative twist. 

 

26. How To Shoot Patterns In Architecture

The key to this type of photography is to stop looking at buildings as whole structures and focus on the small pockets of interesting patterns and shapes they're made up of. Don't overlook the ugly looking buildings either as most of the time, once you're zoomed in and focused on one part, you'll find they're perfect subjects when you're on the hunt for architectural patterns.

 

27. Tips On Photographing Interesting Shops With Character

For a while now people have voiced how they're bored of seeing the same line of shops in every town that have repetitive signs, the same window displays and products on offer. But even though these giants are all over the country you can still find the quirky shops with interesting frames and signs to photograph.

 

28. Tips On Photographing Your Town At Night

Here's a quick tutorial that will show you how to photograph urban nightscapes. You'll find kit suggestions as well as tips on how and what to take photos of. 

  29. Infrared Architectural Photography Tips

Infrared photography isn't everyone's cup of tea, however, this technique can add a distinct and interesting twist to your city shots that others may not have thought of. 

 

30. Capture Shots Of Cathedrals And Churches With Ease

Here are a few things to remember when you're heading out on your church photography day trip. Just remember to respect your surroundings when capturing these magnificent structures.  

 

31. Quick Twilight Town Photography Tips 

Everyone likes a sunset but instead of packing your gear up once the sun's set wait around for when the sun has vanished below the horizon and you'll have the chance to capture some really creative images.

 

32. New York Times Square Photography Tips

As Times Square is a popular location for tourists, it can be hard to shoot architectural photos that aren't dominated by people. However, there are a few things you can do to capture shots that aren't so focused on the people visiting this city. 

  33. Quick Tips On Photographing The Brooklyn Bridge

Skyline shots and photos of iconic structures are something all photographers strive to shoot when in Manhattan, New York and David Clapp has headed to one of the most iconic structures in the city - Brooklyn Bridge.

 

34. Practical Photography Tips For Cities And Towns

To help you capture the magic of cities, here are a few tips on photography in general and more specific tips on photographing Krakow in particular.

 

35. Photographing Lighthouses In The Landscape

The UK's coastline has many lighthouses which are worth a visit with your camera. Some are open to the public and are definitely worth exploring, but here we discuss using lighthouses within the wider landscape.

 

36. Pier Photography Tips 

You can't visit a seaside town that has a pier without photographing this interesting and often historic architectural structure that heads out to sea. 

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to AndyPedant (Day 6 - 'Orange' Colour).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 1

Autumn Landscapes

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Day 2

Autumn Abstracts

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Day 3

Spider's Web

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  Day 4

Gardens In Autumn

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Day 5

Rainy Days

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Day 7

Autumn Reflections

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Day 8

Creative Indoor Shot

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

© Fujifilm

 

FUJIFILM Corporation has announced the global launch of the FUJIFILM X-T30 III, available from November 2025.  Available in three colour options, the X-T30 III will be the latest model in the X Series, offering outstanding image quality within a stylish, lightweight and compact body.

The X-T30 III is a mirrorless digital camera that continues the popular design of a classic center viewfinder style camera.  It boasts a compact and lightweight body weighing just 378g, features a back-illuminated 26.1 megapixel X-Trans™ CMOS 4 sensor and the high-speed processing engine, X-Processor 5. Compared to the previous model, it processes images about twice as fast and uses the latest subject detection autofocus, allowing photographers to enjoy high-quality and comfortable shooting.

Additionally, the camera includes the popular Film Simulation dial.  This dial lets users easily switch between various Film Simulation modes—like changing photo films—to enhance creative expression with intuitive dial control. 

The camera offers 20 different Film Simulations, including REALA ACE, known for faithful colour reproduction and clear tonal gradation, and NOSTALGIC Neg., which provides colourful yet soft tones. The dial has three customisable positions, which allows users to register their original “Recipes” with preferred Film Simulations and settings for versatile photo styles. 

The X-T30 III keeps popular features from the previous model such as a popup flash and an AUTO shooting mode switch lever for easy shooting and ideal for beginners. It also expands creative options with new support for 6.2K/30P video recording. 

Designed to meet the needs of first-time digital camera users as well as those looking for serious photography, the X-T30 III offers comfortable operation, intuitive shooting experiences, and refined design that bring more enjoyment to photography.

 

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Product Features

 

(1) Advanced image processing devices delivers reliable autofocus and versatile visual expression 

The camera features a back-illuminated 26.1-megapixel X-Trans™ CMOS 4 sensor and the latest high-speed image processor X-Processor 5. Thanks to improved power efficiency, battery life has achieved 425 frames per charge.

It uses the latest subject detection autofocus powered by deep learning technology. In addition to face and eye detection, it automatically recognises and tracks a wide range of subjects including animals, birds, cars, motorcycles, bicycles, airplanes, trains, insects, and drones. This allows photographers to focus on composition and timing for a more comfortable shooting experience.

The camera supports 6.2K/30P internal recording in 4:2:2 10-bit quality. It also features high speed video shooting at 4K/60P and 1080/240P. Powerful digital image stabilisation reduces not only small shakes but also strong movements like when recording video while walking.

 

(2) Compact and lightweight design with a Film Simulation dial to expand creative shooting 

The X-T30 III keeps the same size (W118.4mm × H82.8mm × D46.8mm) and weight (378g) as the previous model.  Its classic center viewfinder style follows the heritage of the X-T series, offering a compact and lightweight body that’s suitable to carry every day.

It includes 20 Film Simulations, including REALA ACE and NOSTALGIC Neg. A Film Simulation dial on the top-plate allows intuitive selection to match the subject or scene. This unique digital colour reproduction technology faithfully recreates the look of traditional photo films, making it easy and fun even for first-time digital camera users.

The dial has three customisable positions (FS1 to FS3), where users can register their favourite Film Simulation and quality settings as original “FS Recipes.” These can be quickly accessed by turning the dial, for versatile shooting styles suited to different scenes and subjects.

 

© Fujifilm

 

(3) Compact and lightweight design with a Film Simulation dial to expand creative shooting 

An Auto Mode Selector Lever on the top of the camera lets users instantly switch to AUTO mode. In this mode, the camera automatically detects the scene and selects optimal shooting settings, so the user can shoot easily without worrying about complicated controls. 

The camera has a built-in flash integrated with the viewfinder. It automatically adjusts flash output, making it effective for portraits in low light or backlit situations. 

The center viewfinder style places the finder directly above the lens axis, allowing users to aim directly at subjects through the viewfinder. This enables better focus on the subject and background, enjoying the classic shooting experience of looking through the viewfinder before taking the shot. 

It features a rear LCD monitor with a 1.62-million-dot tilt structure, which makes composing shots easy from high or low angles—perfect for travel and landscape photography. 

Ergonomically designed grip fits comfortably in the hand, offering excellent hold despite the camera’s compact and lightweight body.

The X-T30 III can connect wirelessly to Fujifilm’s smartphone printers in the Link series, enabling direct printing without using an app. Newly added support for the instax™ mini, instax™ SQUARE, and instax™ WIDE formats helps users enjoy a smooth experience from shooting to printing

 

(4) Available with the new XC13-33mmF3.5-6.3 kit lens 

The X-T30 III is available as a kit with a brand new lens, the FUJINON XC13-33mmF3.5-6.3 OIS. 

Weighing only 147g and offering an excellent selection of commonly used focal lengths, the two form a potent pairing for everyday and travel photography. 

With a fixed minimum focusing distance of 20cm, it can deliver great close-up photos, while a 4.0-stop Optical Image Stabilisation (OIS) system greatly improves low-light performance.

 

© Fujifilm

 

Availability and Pricing

The FUJIFILM X-T30 III will be available globally from November 2025 in three colour options: Black, Silver, and Charcoal Silver. Customers can choose between a body-only option or a kit that includes the new FUJINON XC13-33mmF3.5-6.3 OIS lens.

Suggested retail prices:

• X-T30 III kit with XC13-33mmF3.5-6.3 OIS lens: £999
• X-T30 III body only: £829
• XC13-33mmF3.5-6.3 OIS lens (sold separately): £329

For more information, please visit the Fujifilm website.

 

There are several places in the UK, and the rest of the world, where you may find your tripod easily fits into three small holes already made by fellow photographers with their kit. Joking aside, there are several locations that are considered to be honeypots for photographers, and often tourists, which means it can be difficult to shoot something that's different to every other shot produced in that particular location. 

You can, of course, head off in search of your own locations but this can take time and these popular, honeypot locations are popular for a reason: they're very photogenic so why should you ignore them? Instead, we've thought of a few simple things you could try to make your shot slightly different to everyone else’s. 

 

1. Change Focal Length Or Orientation

The majority of landscapes are shot with wide-angle lenses, however, if you switch your wideout and replace it with a telephoto lens you will start to shoot photos of a popular location in a slightly different way. 

Telephoto lenses allow you to be much more selective with what you include in-frame. You'll be able to focus on detail that would be lost in a wider shot, plus telephoto lenses make it easier to crop out a blank, boring sky. 

By standing back and zooming in with a telephoto lens you'll be able to compress perspective so objects in the background will appear to be closer to your foreground subjects than they do with the eye. This means mountains can look like they are towering over foreground detail, almost as if they are stacked on top of one another. 

Do take your tripod with you when using telephoto lenses as they do make camera shake more prominent. 

If you're not using a DSLR with interchangeable lenses you can switch from a landscape orientation to portrait to give your shot a different perspective and feel. 

2. Move Your Feet

It's worth scouting out your chosen location for viewpoints that show the popular spot in a different way. This could mean climbing a near-by hill, moving further down a beach or changing the side of a lake you take your photos from. 

 

 

3. Weather

In a previous article, photographer John Gravett said: “There is no such thing as bad weather, only different types of lighting.” With this in mind, try heading to a popular photographic location on days when the weather's not playing ball. Stormy days with heavy skies, rain and mist work well at the coast while foggy mornings can add an extra level of interest to an over photographed scene, particularly if you can get up high so you can shoot down over it. Landscapes can often look moody when photographed in bad weather and you can enhance the mood further by converting your shots to black & white.

Do remember to protect your equipment correctly when heading out in the rain with a waterproof cover and keep a microfibre cloth handy for drying surfaces. It's also worth packing a few lens cloths, as rain on the lens can spoil photos taken on rainy-days. 

 

4. Season

If you do a quick search online for the location you want to take your photos in you'll soon see what season most people visit it in. Do take the time to shoot at the same time of year as everyone else as some subjects, such as woods in autumn, do look particularly great during certain times of the year. However, don't be afraid to approach the same location during other months to get a shot others may not have. 

 

5. Time Of Day

If you don't want to wait for a whole season to pass, you could just try visiting your chosen location at a different time during the day. Instead of shooting a sunset, get out of bed early and use the cooler morning light in your shots. Another bonus of early mornings is there will be less people around so you won't be fighting for space and you shouldn't get people walking through your shot. In towns and cities, venture out in the evening as the sun sets to capture the outline of buildings that have shape thanks to their lights rather than shooting in the day.