DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY NEWS FROM ePHOTOzine

Fish Eyes by Sophia Spurgin

 

Winner of the 2026 London Camera Exchange Photographer of the Year, Sophia Spurgin, has  today collected a Canon RF 400mm prime lens from the LCE team at their Strand, London store.  Sophia beat 14,500 entrants to take top honour in this year’s competition with her stunning image  ‘Fish Eyes’ captured on a trip to Vietnam on a Canon EOS R5 Mark II camera. 

A retired teacher from Hertfordshire, Sophia is  a keen outdoor photographer, and the Canon RF 400mm F2.8L IS USM was top of her wish list. A super-telephoto model offering a fast f/2.8 aperture, exceptional portability and optical IS, the RF 400mm is an outstanding low-light performer, perfect for wildlife, sports and action photography. The much sought after lens is rarely in stock at UK retailers and required shipping directly from Canon in Japan.

Sophia Spurgin commented, “I’ve never owned a lens of such quality and wanted to mark my win  with something significant. I had never considered prime lenses previously, but now I’ve been able  to obtain this incredible equipment thanks to LCE. I’m looking forward to testing it out during my  travels this year.” 

 

Sophia Spurgin, LCE Photographer of the Year 2026 overall winner, holds her grand prize, the Canon RF 400mm f2.8L IS USM lens. © London Camera Exchange

 

LCE POTY comprises 14 different categories including the publicly voted ‘People’s Choice’ and  ‘Emerging Talent’ dedicated to photography students. Sophia was shortlisted in three categories  and was crowned winner of both the Travel category with ‘Fish Eyes’ and Wildlife category with 

‘Fighting Foxes in the Rain’ – as well as taking first place in the overall competition. She scooped a  total of £3,500 in LCE vouchers, to spend on equipment of her choice. 

Lee Harasyn, managing director of LCE, commented, “We’re thrilled that Sophia has been able to  acquire her dream lens as a result of winning LCE Photographer of the Year 2026, and can take  the next step up in her hugely successful photographic journey. We hope she’ll inspire others to  enter the competition next year and we can’t wait to see the images she’ll capture with this  fantastic piece of kit.” 

The LCE POTY 2026 Awards were presented in a ceremony at The Photography & Video Show at  the NEC, Birmingham. A gallery showcasing the finalists’ images was located close to the show’s  entrance and many of the shortlisted images were included in a special edition commemorative  book. Winners received a share of the £10,000 prize fund and a unique trophy to take home. There  are plans to tour the images at other locations around the UK this year. 

For more information, please visit the LCE POTY website.

 

About London Camera Exchange 

Founded in Guildford in 1956, London Camera Exchange is an employee-owned business and is  celebrating its 70th anniversary in 2026. With 26 high street stores nationwide, the company  delivers award-winning service and impartial expert advice. LCE stocks an extensive range of  cameras, lenses and optical gear from top brands – and is the go-to destination for trading in or  upgrading photographic equipment. Whether visiting in-store or online, LCE’s dedicated team is  always on hand to help customers capture their next great shot.

 

 

1. What Gear Will I Need? 

• Telephoto zoom lens – Gets you close to the window without having to climb a ladder
• Wide-angle lens – Useful for when the window's particularly large
• Tripod – In dark churches you need a sturdy tripod
• Remote release – minimise shake

 

2. Support

When you walk through the doors of a church you instantly notice how dark the interior is and as flash is banned from most historical buildings you'll be relying on long exposures to get your shot. As a result, a tripod and remote release are essential pieces of kit but if you're out for the day with the family and didn't plan on stumbling across a stained glass window you just had to photograph you need to look for a wall you can put your camera on or find a pillar you can rest against while you take your shot. Just remember to keep your arms tucked into your body and hold your breath while you fire the shutter to minimise shake.

 

Not all churches will allow photographers to use tripods or if they do there may be a fee so it's best to double-check before you start taking your shots.
 

3. Position

In an ideal world, you'd be able to use a ladder or even scaffolding to get you directly in line with the window to minimise distortion but as people would be a little upset if you started erecting poles in the middle of a church, you need to find a spot further back from the window and use a longer lens to zoom into the stained glass. If you can't find a position that lines you up with the centre of the window take the shot anyway as you can edit this as well as problems with converging verticals once you're back home.
 

4. Size

Some stained glass windows are so big that even with a wide-angle lens you can't get the whole window in-frame. You can take several shots of the window and stitch the images together when you're back home or you could forget about the big picture and focus in on the colourful detail.

Due to the size of the window and as you'll be looking up at them you will probably need a small aperture to ensure everything from the bottom to the top of the window is in focus.
 

5. Exposure

A bright window surrounded by dark interiors will confuse the camera's exposure system and you'll either get a shot where the window is too bright as the camera has compensated for the surroundings or a shot of a perfectly exposed window with black surroundings as the camera has taken its reading from the window light. One way to solve this problem is to take two shots, one exposed for the window and the other for the surroundings, then once you're back home you combine them to make one perfectly exposed shot. You must use a tripod and ensure the camera doesn't move if you do this as the slightest of nudges will mean the final shots don't line up correctly.

If you don't want to include any of the building's structure in the shot you can usually rely on the camera to meter correctly unless it's a really sunny day then you'll need to use exposure compensation.

 

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Portrait photography is a very popular subject and with so many ways you can capture a brilliant photo of a person, it's easy to see why it's one of the most uploaded genres to the ePHOTOzine Gallery. From capturing images outdoors with natural light to indoor shoots with a full lighting set-up, close-ups, candids and professional model shoots, there are plenty of themes and methods to keep a photographer occupied!

To get you off on the right path, we've put together 10 top tips all on portrait photography and, please, if you have any top tips of your own, we'd love to see them in the comments below. 

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1. Look Your Subject In The Eye

Make sure the eyes are sharp and breathe more life into your shot by adding catchlights into the eyes.

If you're photographing children get down to their eye level. This leads to a more natural posture as they don't have to look up. The shot will also be more personal and intimate, particularly if you crop in close so they're looking directly out of the frame.

2. Simple Backgrounds

Take a good look around your shot before you hit the shutter button. Make sure there are no lampposts growing out of your subject's head and that cars or rubbish bins aren't stealing your attention. Plain backgrounds will always work best, as they help place emphasis on your subject, however you can't always find a plain wall to take your shots against so make use of your camera's wider apertures and throw the distracting background out of focus.

 

3. Use Flash Outside

Bright sunlight will create ugly shadows on your subject's face so use a pop of flash to eliminate them. Try using the flash from the side as this will give the image more dimension. While on cloudy days you can leave your flash in your camera bag as the soft, diffused light the clouds help create is perfect for portraiture work.

For more tips on using flash outdoors take a look at our previous article – flash outdoors.

 

 

4. Play With Backlight

By placing the sun, window or studio light behind your subject you'll be able to create hair/rim light that lights the edge of your subject. This can really make your subject 'pop' out of the image as the outline of light acts as an extra layer keeping your subject separate from the background.

 

5. Be A Director

Most people won't know what pose works best or what light works where so make sure you talk to them, giving direction when needed. If you make the effort to have a conversion they'll become more relaxed in front of the camera too.

 

6. Don't Centre Everything

Standing centre stage may work for an actor but off the boards and in a photo that's not cropped you want your subject to be slightly to the left or right of the shot. This gives the shot a more pleasing perspective and interest. If your subject's not looking directly into the lens give your subject room to look into and if they're moving through the shot make sure there's space for them to step, run or cycle into.

Imagine a rule of thirds board that looks similar to a naughts and crosses board sat over your scene can help with composition. Take a look at our rule of thirds advice.
 

 

 

7. Create Candids

Candids are shots of people who aren't posed. This could be children playing with their toys, a groom chatting to his new bride quietly in a corner or your mum making a cup of tea. The key to candids is not taking your shot straight away. Wait until the person you're photographing has forgotten about the camera so they're focused on their activity before you take your shot. If you're out on a planned shoot try taking a few photos while you're on a break as your subject won't feel as self-conscious and you'll be able to capture a few natural-looking shots.

If you're working with children make sure they're having fun because the minute they get bored they'll turn unco-operative. Don't forget the odd prop such as balls and sweets. They'll rarely get turned down and they'll soon have them so occupied they'll have forgotten you're there with your camera.

8. Make A Frame

When something gets in the way of your shot the first thing you think to do is move but this isn't always necessary. Finding spots where branches, walls, fences, flowers and other objects can add colour and interest to your composition by creating a frame. Just remember to use a longer focal length to blur your frame so all focus still falls on your subject.

 

9. Get Closer To Your Subject

Using longer zoom lenses will let you crop tighter on your subject without distortion or having to invade their personal space. This bit of extra space will leave your sitter more relaxed and as a result, you'll end up with a more pleasant portrait. As well as having a pleasing perspective your shot's background will be nicely thrown out of focus, even if you're using a smallish aperture and your backdrops only a few feet behind your subject.

Filling the frame with your subject will create a shot that has more impact, is more intimate and if you're using a longer lens, it will help flatter their features for a more pleasing shot.

10. Shoot Reflections And Silhouettes

Your subject's reflection will give you an image that's more visually interesting. For example, getting your subject to place their hands and head on a table with a reflective surface will add depth to a shot. Be creative with the surfaces you use and look for walls and objects that are reflective as well as using the more obvious reflective surfaces such as puddles and glass.
 

All photos by Joshua Waller.
 

 

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If you've ever taken photographs with the sun in front of you, you're likely to have experience flare, which probably spoilt your photograph. However, there are several things you can do to remove it or if you're feeling creative, you can use it in your shots to add a little romanticism, mystery and warmth to your work.

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1. What Is Flare?

Flare is caused by direct light entering the lens, which then bounces around the glass elements causing a reduction in the photograph's contrast. Sometimes this will just make the picture look washed out and lacking vibrant colours, but often you would also see a series of coloured shapes across the photo. The shape is an image of the lens' aperture or diaphragm and will often be hexagonal. This is joined with streaks of coloured light crossing the picture. Modern lenses have multicoated lens elements and are designed to reduce flare but even with the most expensive products, it can still occur.
 

2. How Can I Stop It?

The easy way to prevent flare is to shoot with your back to the sun - a method that was always suggested in camera manuals before multicoated optics. The trouble with this suggestion is that there are many occasions when you cannot control where the sun is in relation to your subject. It's easy, for example, to ask a person to turn direction or change the angle that you shoot a flower from, but try shooting a castle on a hilltop or boat out at sea and you're usually stuck with no other choice than to face the sun.

Fortunately, there are things that can be done. First, make sure the sun is at least out of the frame. If this is not possible to adjust the position so that a nearby building or tree shields the sun from the camera position. Alternatively, shield the lens from the sun using your hand or a piece of card. Take care to avoid this creeping into the frame. Better still, use a lens hood.

 

3. What If I Want To Use Flare In My Shot?

 

It's easier to get flare with less expensive lenses and be prepared to work lower to the ground, laying down if it's needed to get the sun in the right position. Remember, you're trying to get the camera to do something it's designed not to do so work in manual and trust your own judgement as your camera will keep telling you your shot is blown out. Position yourself so you're shooting into the sun, just before it starts setting and remember to adjust your exposure so your subject doesn't come out as a silhouette. Don't be afraid to use overexposed backgrounds as this will add to the effect and switch to manual focus if your lens keeps searching for a focus point, which it might do as the background will be the lightest part of your shot so it probably won't want to focus on your subject. If you want to shoot some indoor portraits this technique works just as well with your subject positioned against a window or patio doors.

 

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Captured during a quiet evening on the coast, Tranquil Twilight by kenwil shows Southport Pier reaching out over the still, shallow water at dusk. The low tide sets the stage, but the real magic is the way the sky reflects perfectly on the wet sand. The vivid sunset light breaks through at the horizon, cutting through the heavy, dark clouds above. The curved lamp posts along the pier lead you right to the pavilion at the end, making for an excellent composition that feels incredibly balanced. All together, it’s a beautiful coastal shot that really nails the peaceful yet moody feel of twilight.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we’ll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

Make the most of the flowers currently in bloom and have a go at a bit of creative flower photography. Below you'll find links to flower photography tutorials with advice on using macro lenses, dealing with messy backgrounds, working on a budget and for when the weather turns, tips on photographing flowers indoors. Each feature also has a picture-perfect flower shot next to it for inspiration - enjoy!  

 

1. Backlighting Flowers For Photography

 

2. Four Ways To Shoot More 'Arty' Themed Flower Images

 

3. Flowers - An Alternative Approach

 

4. Six Outdoor Flower Photography Tips Every Compact User Needs

 

5. 3 Top Tips To Improve Bluebell Photography

 

6. Abstract Flower Photography Tips

 

 

7. 10 Top Tips On Photographing Daffodils

 

8. Take Better Photos Of Public Gardens With These 5 Tips

 

 

9. Eight Techniques To Improve Your Garden Photos

 

10. 4 Essential Tips On Photographing Snowdrops

 

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    Wonky horizons are the bane of many landscape and cityscape photographers as a horizon that's slightly off-tilt can spoil what's otherwise a perfectly good shot. Of course, there will be times when holding your camera at an angle so the horizon line is deliberately not straight but if you do want to do this, make sure it's really obvious as otherwise, it'll just look like you forgot to check your frame before hitting the shutter button.   How To Straighten Horizons    1. Line it up with the bottom or top of your frame   The easiest way to ensure you have horizontal horizons is to line it up with the bottom or top of your frame, either in your viewfinder or on the LCD screen. Some cameras also have a digital spirit level feature which will indicate to you when the camera is level  - both on the horizontal and vertical planes. It can be displayed in the viewfinder or on the back monitor when using Live View, along with all your other settings. When the marker is in the middle of the gauge and turns green, you know you're level.     2. Rule of thirds grid  If you don't have a digital spirit level, have a look in your camera's menu options to see if there's a rule of thirds grid. We know this isn't designed for this purpose but the grid will have horizontal lines on it that can be a handy guide when you're looking for a quick way to check the horizon.          3. Use a spirit level Another option is to purchase a spirit level that sits on your camera's hot shoe and to use a tripod as you're more likely to move / not hold the camera straight when you shooting hand-held.      4. Post Production  Of course, you can always straighten your images in whatever editing software you use as well but it's good practise to get it right in-camera whenever possible.    

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What Is Mood?

Mood essentially relates to the lighting in a shot. Giving something mood usually means we are trying to make it dark and brooding – making it moody. But mood can relate to any lighting situation, to give your photo any mood/feeling.

For landscape photography, mood usually relates to the weather. A cloudy, unsettled day will create mood in a way most of us expect it to be - dark and brooding. Although the opposite, where streaks of the sun break through the cloud to shine light on parts of the green landscape is equally as good, it's just the mood/feeling is different. 

 

Gear Choices

To take good moody landscapes, you're going to need a tripod as dark days may be good for the style of shot you're trying to create but the lack of light can lead to slower shutter speeds and working without a tripod can result in shake. 

 

 

Be Patient

This type of photography requires patience. To get the best shots, you need to wait until there is a break in the weather to get some really interesting lighting effects from the turbulent sky. Of course, mood doesn't have to be cloudy, but with landscapes, it's more of a challenge to portray mood on bright, sunny, cloudless days. 

When the right light does arrive, work quickly as it can be gone again before you know it. The key to this is always to be ready, having your gear out and framing in-mind before the right light does show its face. 
 

Be Prepared

Check the weather forecast the night before as there's no point heading out if you find the weather isn't going to be right. You also need to have the right type of location as you'll find some subjects will work better in dark, moody shots than others. 

 

 

Convert Your Shots

Black and white is another way to create mood in your photography. Taking photos of a gnarly tree, for example, in black and white will look so much more foreboding than a shot in colour. You can shoot black and white in-camera although, if you shoot in colour, you can convert your shots to black and white in your chosen editing software, giving you more control over the tones, highlights and shadows in the shot.

 

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to TheShaker (Day 18- Weather).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 17

People In The Landscapes

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Day 19

Lighthouses

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Day 20

Numbers & Letters

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Day 21

'Arty' Theme

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  Day 22

'Fun' Theme

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Day 23

Flotsam

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

 

 

Due to the size of the UK, we're usually not a million miles from the coast where you'll find fishing boats and tourist boats galore to photograph. Further inland, there are rivers with boats, canal and inland waterways or even water-sports centre where you can capture action-packed images as well as shots of pedalos and canoes.

 

1. What Kit Should I Choose? 

For most boat photography a standard zoom of the 35-80mm range is fine. It's usually wide enough to get the whole boat in shot and long enough to crop in on sails, hull, lifebuoy on the side or other finer detail. You may prefer a longer lens 80-200mm if the boat is further away or to shoot small detail like mini flags, portraits of crew etc. and a lens with a close focus ability is good for detail in ropes, paintwork etc. when the boat is moored.

A polarising filter is a must to ensure reflections are reduced on the paintwork and to deepen a blue sky and cut down on reflections in the water. A graduated filter is useful if the boats are set against a bright sky, although watch for darkening of the mast and upper sails on yachts and such like.

If you plan on shooting panoramic photos of harbours and marinas, pack your tripod. 

 

2. Head To A Harbour 

Harbours conjure up picturesque scenes with colourful boats offset against beautiful blue skies, reflected in the waters below.  To get this sort of picture you need a sunny day with still waters. Use a polarising filter to make the colours more saturated and choose viewpoints without too much clutter. A single boat in the foreground makes a more impressive shot than one where several boats are fighting for your attention.

 

 

3. Wait For The Tide 

As the tide goes out you can photograph moored boats grounded in mud, or on the beach. Use the mooring ropes as a lead-in up through the photo. A small aperture is needed to ensure everything from the front of the rope to the distant boat is sharp. Shots will be more dramatic if you shoot from a low angle and include a brooding sky. Use a graduated grey or ND filter to darken the sky.

 

4. Walk Along A River Bank 

If you aren't near a coastal location you may have a river running nearby that has boats on it. You may get sailing boats, small cargo boats, river authority working boats or even barges. There will usually be speed limits of around 5mph which means that you don't need to worry about panning skills or the need for ultra-fast shutter speeds to shoot boats on rivers. For more impact shoot from a low angle (at the side of the river on a low bank point is best). Try to include interesting landmarks in the background, trees or the odd building at the edge of the frame to hold the viewer inside that frame and focused on the boat.

If there's a bridge find a position where you can use that as a frame as the boat passes under, but watch the exposure. The light under the bridge will be lower than the outside so it's easy to underexpose if your meter picks up the brighter area as the important part. Switch to spot metering where possible and take a meter reading from the sidewall of the bridge and use that as the starting point.

 

 

5. Make A Canal Your Focus

Canals run through many countries too. With these, you not only have boats to photograph but also the activities surrounding them. Barges are usually hand-painted and are very colourful. They often have matching watering cans or flower pots that are crying out to be photographed.  Shoot with a telephoto and wide aperture to blur the background. Focus on small areas of paintwork for patterns and interesting window displays. Find a spot where there's a lock and then you can photograph the activity as the barge is taken to the next water level.

 

6. Interested In Watersports? 

For those who prefer a little more action consider a day out at a water-sports centre. These locations are usually on man-made lakes around the country and offer sports enthusiasts opportunities to sail, water-ski or jet-ski. It's at these locations where you can shoot the speed. For the best results, it helps if you pan with the craft.

Experiment with the shutter speed to get the right amount of motion. Follow the boats and shoot as it reaches a central point of your pan. This will blur the background but if you are keeping at the same speed as the boat as you pan it will be sharp. Try to avoid moving the camera up or down as you pan.

Some have rapids for canoeing. here a fast shutter speed can be used to get the water droplets frozen as they splash around the canoe. Take shots as the canoeist comes up from a 360 roll water will be dripping off his face and he's likely to have a great air gasping expression.

 

 

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The Viltrox AF 35mm F1.2 LAB N FE is a premium Sony mount lens that combines a classic aperture ring with modern, high speed autofocus. Its weather sealed design and advanced 15 element optics ensure sharp results in any environment, serving as a rugged choice for professional photographers and videographers. With a bright F1.2 aperture, it delivers beautiful background blur and excellent low light performance for high quality creative results.

 

From Viltrox:

Viltrox today announces the launch of its AF 35mm F1.2 LAB N FE, a full-frame ultra-large-aperture autofocus prime lens for Sony FE mount cameras. Designed to coexist alongside the original AF 35mm F1.2 LAB, the new version builds on its proven performance while introducing a more streamlined appearance without a display. It’s paired with a traditional aperture ring featuring marked stops that provide precise, tactile control preferred by many photographers.

 

Flagship Lenses & Sophisticated Optical Structure

The flagship 15-element, 10-group optical structure (including 3 HR, 5 ED, and 2 UA elements) delivers exceptional edge-to-edge sharpness, preserving fine detail even under heavy cropping, while effectively controlling chromatic aberration in high-contrast or backlit scenes.

 

Significantly Faster Autofocus with Quad HyperVCM

Powered by Viltrox’s Quad HyperVCM motor system, the lens delivers significantly faster autofocus performance compared to traditional STM systems. With micron-level precision, fast focus transitions, and support for face and eye detection, it ensures reliable subject tracking, which combined with its quiet operation and smooth focus transitions make it well suited for video production.

 

F1.2 Ultra-Large Aperture

The F1.2 aperture affords increased light intake for cleaner low-light imaging and a shallow depth of field, while the 11-blade diaphragm delivers a smooth, rounded bokeh with a natural and pleasing rendering.

 

 

Professional Handling and Workflow Efficiency

Designed for intuitive control, the aperture ring supports click and de-click switching for both photo and video use, while the AF/MF switch enables quick mode changes. Two customizable buttons provide direct access to frequently used functions, improving responsiveness during shooting.

 

Engineered for Durability in Demanding Environments

The lens incorporates a sealed structure to resist dust and moisture, ensuring reliable performance in challenging outdoor conditions. A water- and smudge-resistant front coating enhances usability, while the full-metal housing and precision-plated brass mount provide long-term structural strength.

 

Close-Up Precision and Consistent Focal Sharpness

A minimum focusing distance of 0.34m enables detailed close-up shooting, while the dual floating focus design maintains consistent sharpness and resolution across the focusing range, from close-up to infinity.

 

 

Availability

The AF 35mm F1.2 LAB N FE will be available alongside the original AF 35mm F1.2 LAB, offering photographers and filmmakers the flexibility to choose the control style that best suits their workflow. 

 

More details and how to buy

For more information, please visit: https://viltrox.com/products/af-35mm-f1-2-fe

Amazon Store:

• The US site: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GWJ4RP2B
• The European site: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0GWJ4RP2B

MSRP: 999USD / 999EUR / 869GBP

 

About Viltrox

Viltrox, established in 2009, is a globally-recognized leader in camera lenses and adapters, specializing in high-performance equipment for photography and cine. The company’s portfolio includes cinema and autofocus lenses – such as the LAB, Pro, EVO, and Air series, launched since 2018 – along with monitors, adapters, and lighting solutions.

Driven by innovation, the company expanded further into cine in 2022 with the "EPIC" anamorphic and "LUNA" zoom lenses, offering cost-effective solutions for filmmakers worldwide. Renowned for their exceptional optical quality, reliability, and accessible pricing, Viltrox products reflect a commitment to engineering excellence and user-centered design, empowering content creators in both still and motion photography. For more information, please visit: https://viltrox.com

 

As an island nation, many of us live fairly close to the coast and as well as tidal patterns in the sand, surf, sand dunes, grasses and breakwaters, the coast is host to a certain amount of flotsam. Although, rightly, we consider flotsam as undesirable rubbish, it doesn't necessarily mean that it won't make a good photographic subject. In fact, a day on the beach finding flotsam can be a great photographic challenge.

 

Where To Look For Flotsam

 

Finding flotsam is not too difficult, selecting what to take and making anything of it photographically is the most challenging aspect. Apparently the most common piece of flotsam is the humble cotton bud, but they're not the most exciting photographically. I like to look for shapes and textures – from rubber gloves to tin cans, which work best in close up using parts rather than the whole, giving a more abstract appearance.

I once found a broken plastic "beach" tennis racquet, and a few metres away from a smashed tennis ball – they simply had to go together. A partly submerged skateboard made another great subject – because only the end of it was sticking out of the sand it had a really discarded feel.

Old nets from fishing boats snagged on breakwaters can look good too, and washed up wood that has been eroded into smooth sculpted shapes by the sea can look fabulous.

 

The Best Light

 

Ideal lighting is probably hazy sunlight – enough to give some shape to your subject, but not too much to create harsh shadows – as with everything, there are exceptions, and will be many subjects that suit either very overcast or very sunny conditions. I do find a reflector can help with bouncing light back into shadows.
 

Safety First

More than anything though, be careful on the beach, windblown sand is not the best thing to get inside your camera so make sure lens changing is kept to a minimum, and shield your camera from the wind when you do change lenses. I turn my back to the wind, and use my body to protect the whole camera – I also make sure that I change lenses as quickly as possible, to leave the camera exposed for the shortest possible time.

Tripods, no matter how stable, can sink into the soft wet sand, so ensure they don't fall over, and lastly, be aware of the tide tables, check them on the internet, and don't get caught out by tides coming in fast whilst you're concentrating on pictures.

So next time you're at the beach, keep a lookout for other people's rubbish, which can become your art!

 

 

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The 70-200mm f/2.8 lenses have been staple fare for many years, an undeniably useful range of focal lengths. They are also likely to be one of the best lenses from any manufacturer's range, pushing the quality towards the technically possible limits of current optical design. When the first version of this new Nikkor Z lens was reviewed some six years ago, it might have seemed that there was very little improvement that could realistically be made, but then here we are with a second generation version II. Faster and quieter focusing, improved VR, 12mm shorter, 362g lighter, better balanced for hand held use and mounting on gimbals, ARCA-SWISS tripod foot, de-clickable control ring; the tweaks and improvements are extensive. Yes, a slightly higher price, but that is relatively small compared to the expected service life of the lens. It's all very enticing, so let's see how it all works out, using the classy 45MP Nikon Z8 camera body, an ideal camera to challenge the new lens's capabilities.

 

Nikon Nikkor Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR S II Handling and Features

Current 70-200mm f/2.8 lenses are not small, but the new lens is significantly more compact than its initial form, weighing in at just 998g without the tripod foot and 1180g if the foot is attached. The foot is easily removed and there is a cover sleeve provided that fits in its place, offering protection to the finish of the lens barrel. Measurements are 90mm x 208mm, not exactly svelte but well balanced, a handling improvement when shooting handheld or using a gimbal.

A bayonet fit petal lens hood is provided and this clicks smoothly and positively into position. There is a locking catch. The hood also has a small window that allows access to the rim of filters, so, for example, a polarising filter can be rotated without having to remove the hood. This useful idea has been around for a while. The sliding cover, however, is rather easily operated and may be found to be open when not needed. As this slightly reduces the effectiveness of the hood it would perhaps be a good idea to make the cover firmer in action. Within the bayonet mount for the hood is a standard 77mm filter thread.

 

 

First up is the smooth zoom ring, clearly marked at 70mm, 85mm, 105mm, 135mm and 200mm. The action of zooming does not change the length of the lens, but there are groups of elements being shifted so this is a physical control rather than an electronic one. There seems little impact on the balance of the lens.

The four L-Fn2 buttons are next in line, and these can be programmed from the camera body. The focusing ring is electronic, as smooth in action as we would expect, and can be operated to fine tune the AF position once the AF has locked on. This may well be rarely necessary as the super-fast AF system seems to lock on exactly where required with unfailing speed and accuracy. Some of the sample bird shots were actually shot through metal grills and the AF system had no problem dealing with this, locking on every time through the gaps. With a wide aperture, the bars just disappear in the image. This could not be said of other marques being used at the same time that failed to focus most of the time. Beyond this, there are also the four L-Fn buttons, also programmed via the camera.

 

 

The thin control ring can also be programmed from the camera body and was set to change the aperture for this review process. There is a switch to engage or switch off the clicks, and as they would certainly be heard when shooting video, the de-clicking facility is essential. The A/M switch selects between AF and MF in the usual way and the focus limiter gives an option to restrict the AF to between 5m and infinity. The implication is that Nikon expect the lens to be used for longer range photography, but an option to set a close limit as well would be logical given the close focusing ability of the lens. 

Closest focusing depends upon the focal length selected:

 

70mm 0.38m 1.25' 0.3x 85mm 0.38m 1.25'   105mm 0.5m 1.64'   135mm 0.6m 1.97'   200mm 0.8m 2.63' 0.25x

 

Just behind the control ring is the tripod foot, solid but not overly large and having an ARCA-SWISS design. This is very convenient when using ARCA-SWISS style tripod connections. The ring allows the camera to be rotated from landscape to portrait orientation. When the ring is removed, there is a protective collar provided that covers the connection area around the barrel.

Focusing is driven by Nikon's Silky Smooth VCM motors and is indeed super-fast, as well as being staggeringly accurate and virtually silent. Focus breathing is minimised with videographers in mind. VR (Vibration Reduction) offers a 6 stop advantage, although this does nothing at all for subject movement, so for wildlife, a high shutter speed may well still be needed. Synchro VR is available with selected bodies and this optimises the VR between the centre of the images and the peripheral areas. Compatible bodies are currently Z9, Z8, Z6 III, Z5 II, Zf and ZR.

 

 

Optical construction is 18 elements in 16 groups, including 1 ED, 1 Super ED, 2 Aspherical, 1 Aspherical ED, 1 Fluorite and 1 SR. The use of fluorite, an expensive option, indicates a serious intent to aim for the highest quality. ARNEO and Super Integrated coatings are used, along with meso amorphous coatings. There is also the fluorite coating for the front element to repel dust, grease and moisture. The lens as a whole is sealed against dust and moisture. The diaphragm comprises 11 blades and produces a nicely rounded aperture.

There is also compatibility with both of the Nikon Z teleconverters. TC-1.4x offers a maximum reach of 280mm. TC-2.0x offers a maximum reach of 400mm. These offer a convenient way to carry a longer lens with a minimum of bulk, although there is a loss of speed, the 1.4x converter losing one stop and the 2.0x converter losing two stops. The converters were not included and are not part of this review.

Handling is very comfortable and the only real drawback is the weight of the lens. It may be lighter than the first version but it still has a fair bit of bulk about it. However, just feel the quality of the results, and it's perhaps a small price to pay for such excellence.

 

Nikon Nikkor Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR S II Performance

At 70mm, central sharpness is outstanding from f/2.8 to f/11, excellent at f/16 and very good at f/22. The edges are excellent from f/2.8 right through to f/16 and are still very good at f/22.

At 105mm, central sharpness is outstanding from f/2.8 to f/5.6 and excellent from f/2.8 to f/22. The edges are excellent from f/2.8 to f/16 and very good at f/22.

At 160mm, central sharpness is excellent from f/2.8 to f/16 and very good at f/22. Likewise, the edges are excellent from f/2.8 to f/16 and very good at f/22.

It's pretty obvious that sharpness is just about as good as it gets and Nikon continues at the top of its game.

 

Nikon Nikkor Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR S II MTF Charts Previous Next

How to read our MTF charts

The blue column represents readings from the centre of the picture frame at the various apertures and the green is from the edges.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Sony A7R III body using Imatest. Want to know more about how we review lenses?

 

CA (Chromatic Aberration) is highly corrected for and there is no sign of any colour fringing, even when the lighting and subject conditions are severe.

Distortion is virtually banished and the lens is as close to being rectilinear as makes no difference. Many macro lenses are not this good. Figures are almost zero, being actually zero at 70mm, +0.06% pincushion at 105mm and +0.02% pincushion at 160mm.

 

Nikon Nikkor Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR S II Chromatic Aberration Charts Previous Next

How to read our CA charts

Chromatic aberration (CA) is the lens' inability to focus on the sensor or film all colours of visible light at the same point. Severe chromatic aberration gives a noticeable fringing or a halo effect around sharp edges within the picture. It can be cured in software.

Apochromatic lenses have special lens elements (aspheric, extra-low dispersion etc) to minimize the problem, hence they usually cost more.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Sony A7R III body using Imatest.

 

Bokeh is the smoothness of gradation in the out of focus areas in an image. This is an aesthetic judgement rather than a measurement, and this new lens gives us some very beautiful bokeh indeed. It is relatively unusual to see smooth bokeh along with such high resolution, but Nikon manage it with apparent ease.

The flare performance is also excellent, clearly the design, internal baffling and coatings are all combining to do an excellent job of suppressing internal reflections. 

Vignetting is very well controlled.

 

Aperture 70mm 105mm 160mm f/2.8 -0.8 -1.4 -1.2 f/4 -0.6 -1.3 -0.6 f/5.6 -0.5 -1.1 -0.5 f/8 -0.5 -1.1 -0.4 f/11 -0.5 -1.1 -0.4 f/16 -0.5 -1.1 -0.4 f/22 -0.5 -1.1 -0.4

 

Nikon Nikkor Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR S II Sample Photos Previous Next

 

Nikon Nikkor Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR S II Aperture range Previous Next

You can view additional images in the Equipment Database, where you can add your own reviews, photos and product ratings.

 

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  Value For Money

The [AMUK]Nikkor Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR S II|Nikkor+Z+70-200mm+f/2.8+VR+S+II[/AMUK] lens is priced at £2999.00

There is a wide array of options for this specification, and to see where the pricing falls, here is a selection of them from all marques. These will not necessarily fit Nikon Z cameras, but still offer a benchmark for pricing.

• [AMUK]Nikkor Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR S|Nikkor+Z+70-200mm+f/2.8+VR+S[/AMUK], £2599
• [AMUK]Canon RF 70-200mm f/2.8 IS USM|Canon+RF+70-200mm+f/2.8+IS+USM[/AMUK], £2999
• [AMUK]Panasonic Lumix S Pro 70-200mm f/2.8 OIS|Panasonic+Lumix+S+Pro+70-200mm+f/2.8+OIS[/AMUK], £1991
• [AMUK]Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 DG OS HSM|Sigma+70-200mm+f/2.8+DG+OS+HSM[/AMUK], £1199
• [AMUK]Sony FE 70-200mm f/2.8 GM OSS II|Sony+FE+70-200mm+f/2.8+GM+OSS+II[/AMUK], £2600

Although at the high end of the range, the pricing seems about right.

 

 

Nikon Nikkor Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR S II Verdict

Smaller, lighter, sharper, faster, better balanced, what's not to like about this new version of an already superb optic? It all has to be weighed up against the increased cost, but that is probably worth it for the improvements and the better handling for videographers as well as stills photographers. We do lose the small OLED display of the original lens but that is a very small price.

In the end, the enjoyment of the quality kicks in and the perception is of absolutely impeccable results, at a price of course, but that is inevitable. It is true that Nikon produces many lower-cost lenses that are also incredibly good, but these have slower apertures and do not offer the versatility of the new lens. 

It's a clear and definite Editor's Choice.

 

Nikon Nikkor Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR S II Pros

• Outstanding sharpness
• Virtually no distortion
• Fast, accurate and virtually silent AF
• Excellent flare resistance
• Almost zero CA
• Moisture and dust sealing
• 0.3x magnification at 70mm
• 6 stops VR
• Synchro VR with compatible bodies
• Modest vignetting
• Beautiful bokeh

 

Nikon Nikkor Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR S II Cons

• Price

 

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Not everyone's a fan of DIY but building your own camera and creating your own filters can be fun, plus it's usually cheaper and who doesn't like to save a pound or two? So, here are 10 DIY photography tricks & hacks for you to try on a rainy day.
 

1. Build Your Own Camera

This one does involve spending slightly more than just a few quid but at the end of it, you do get a camera that's fully functional. The Bigshot DIY Camera and Lomography Konstruktor are a couple of examples of the kind of kits you can purchase. 

  2. Create Your Own Filters

Filters, particularly DIY ones, can be used with all types of cameras (including phones) and they can help you create interesting effects without having to break the bank or learn a new photo editing technique. Something as simple as a sweet wrapper (think Quality Streets) wrapped around your lens and secured in place with an elastic band can add colour to your shots while a pair of tights cut to size and pulled over your lens will give you a soft focus effect. 

  3. Create Your Own Bokeh Effects

Who doesn't like a bit of Bokeh? But you don't just have to settle for circular out of focus highlights as you can use a few tools and your creativity to change the appearance of the shapes that appear. You need to get a black piece of card, decide on a shape, cut it out of the card then fasten the card around your lens like you would a lens hood. Try to not make your shapes too small or complicated as they won't stand out very well in your final shot.

  4. Reverse Your Lens For Ultra Close-Ups

Macro lenses are great for getting close to subjects, but as with all lenses, they're an investment and aren't something all of us can go out and purchase. However, with the help of a reversing ring, you can shoot close-up work in an inexpensive way. You simply attach the reversing ring to the filter thread of your lens which then allows you to attach your lens to your camera in reverse. They can be tricky to use but they do offer one of the cheapest ways of capturing macro shots. For more tips on working with reversing rings, have a read of this article: Reversing Your Lens For Ultra Close-Ups

5. Use A Magnifying Glass & Shoot Macros

Another way to shoot macros without a macro lens is by taping a magnifying glass to the front of your camera. You can use most magnifying glasses as close up lenses as long as the magnifier is big enough to cover the front of your lens. For more tips, have a read of this: Macro Photography With A Magnifying Glass

 

6. Make Your Own Reflector

Nothing beats the tin foil sheet that you'd normally wrap the turkey up into throw masses of light back into your subject. You just need to cut out a piece of card, apply glue or tape to it, carefully roll the tin foil over the glued cardboard, smooth out the tin foil with a sponge or cloth and leave to dry. You may need to trim the edges and you can apply tape around it too if you want it to look a little neater. 

 

7. Create A Beanbag

A tripod is usually the support photographers turn to but when you want to travel light or venture to places where tripods and similar supports aren't allowed to be used, you have to look for an alternative. One of these alternative options is a beanbag and even though you can purchase ready-made models, they're not hard to make yourself and the materials aren't expensive either. Basically, you just need some fabric, beans/polystyrene balls and a sewing machine or needle and thread. There are plenty of tutorials online with step-by-step instructions on how to construct a beanbag, including these found on Instructables: Camera Bean Bag Instructions

 

8. Make A Home-Made Flash Diffuser

A flash diffuser is a useful tool but why buy one when you can create your own at home? Click the following link to view a tutorial that will take you through the steps for making your own interchangeable flash diffuser, with changing filter options, for whatever light source you come across when taking photos: Build A Flash Diffuser

 

 

9. Building A DIY Modular Flash System 

Flash accessories can be made for next to nothing, all that is needed is a little creativity and a little spare time, as site member Paul Morgan explained in this tutorial: Building A DIY Modular Flash System

 

10. Get Creative With Light With An Old Lens

There's a technique you may not have come across called Lens Wacking and the idea is you allow more stray light to reach the sensor and to do this you shoot with the lens detached from and held in front of the camera body. It can be tricky to master but can create some really interesting, dream-like lighting effects and bokeh with just the help of an old, cheap manual lens you have at home. For more tips on how to perfect this technique that gives your images a cinematic feel, have a read of the Lens Wacking tutorial on Pentax User. 

 

If you have any DIY photography tips or hacks others should have a go at, feel free to post them in the comments below.
 

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Evoto has released an updated ecosystem brief presenting its products as a connected shoot-to-delivery workflow rather than separate editing apps. The structure links capture, culling, retouching, cloud sync, and publishing across multiple devices and product surfaces.

 

Key Takeaways

• Evoto’s ecosystem includes Desktop, Instant, Mobile, iPad, and Video products with role-based workflow handoff.
• Evoto Desktop v7.1.0 extends AI Lab (Smart Removal, People Removal, AI Scene) alongside Personalized AI Looks and Perfect Shot.
• The system is designed for photography teams that need repeatable editing quality across high-volume projects.
• Product messaging emphasizes automation for repetitive tasks while keeping final creative control with photographers and editors.

 

All-in-One AI Photo Editing Platform for 2026 Workflows

In the current positioning, Evoto Desktop remains the main post-production environment for large projects, while Evoto Instant is the delivery endpoint for online galleries and access-controlled sharing. Evoto Mobile and Evoto iPad support on-site and in-transit workflows, and Evoto Video extends finishing work into motion deliverables.

This ecosystem framing follows a pattern seen in current media coverage of imaging software: clear role assignment by device and stage, with less emphasis on broad AI claims and more emphasis on production continuity.

 

 

Seamless Workflow for Professional AI Photography

Evoto describes a five-stage operating flow:

1. Capture and ingest

Images enter through tethered shooting or import pathways, then are assigned to project-level structures.

2. Selection and grouping

AI-assisted culling helps flag technical rejects and organize similar frames for faster review.

3. Editing and consistency

Teams apply shared portrait and color logic in batch, while keeping the option for manual adjustments on individual frames.

4. Delivery and access

Approved outputs are routed into sharing workflows, including gallery-based distribution through Evoto Instant where enabled.

5. Video extension

Projects that require motion output can continue through Evoto Video for visual alignment with photo deliverables.

This sequence is aimed at reducing workflow breaks between tools, especially in event and school scenarios where deadlines are tight and image volume is high.

 

 

AI Culling and Retouching Tools for Pro Photographers

Across the suite, Evoto emphasizes AI as an assistant layer for repetitive operations:

• automated pre-sorting to reduce manual culling load
• batch-oriented portrait retouching and color handling
• consistency controls across multi-image sets
• optional cross-device continuation when projects move from desktop to delivery channels

Evoto also references recent Desktop-side feature evolution in v7.1.0 as part of the wider ecosystem value rather than isolated features. The Desktop draft aligns three feature groups:

1. AI Lab

A creative module for AI-assisted cleanup and scene composition workflows. The current AI Lab scope in this draft includes:

• Smart Removal: removes selected distractions with subject protection options in supported scenes.
• People Removal: detects and removes passersby or extra people in eligible images.
• AI Scene: supports subject cutout, background replacement, and layered foreground setup for controlled visual staging.

2. Personalized AI Looks

A style-training workflow that allows users to build reusable looks from their own edited image sets, then apply those looks across future      projects.

3. Perfect Shot

A group-photo workflow that helps replace expressions from adjacent images when subjects blink or miss gaze direction.

 

 

Real-Time Tethered Shooting and Delivery for Events

For event and location work, Evoto positions Mobile and iPad as practical companions to Desktop rather than replacements. The workflow message is: capture and review in the field, then consolidate in Desktop for volume editing, then publish through Instant for client-facing access.

The Instant layer is presented as a delivery workflow rather than only a gallery viewer, including project sharing paths, branding controls, and participant-oriented access options depending on setup.

This cross-product chain is particularly relevant for:

• school portrait operations
• event photographers handling rapid turnaround
• studio teams requiring collaborative post pipelines
• hybrid teams delivering both photo and short-form video outputs

 

Professional Photo Editing Ecosystem With Cloud Sync Features

Evoto describes cloud sync as the connective mechanism across products. In operational terms, this means teams can maintain a central project logic while switching execution context by device and task.

The company notes that not every feature is universally available in every context. Plan tier, region, hardware support, image format, and release channel can all affect capability access.

 

Who This Workflow Is For

Based on current product documentation and positioning language, the ecosystem is primarily targeted at:

• portrait professionals handling repeatable edits at scale
• studios with multi-editor throughput requirements
• photographers who need on-site review plus later desktop finishing
• teams that want a single ecosystem across capture, edit, and delivery

 

Availability

Official product channels:

• https://www.evoto.ai/ai-photo-editor
• https://instant.evoto.ai/
• https://www.evoto.ai/ipad
• https://www.evoto.ai/evoto-mobile
• https://video.evoto.ai/

 

About Evoto

Evoto is a software company that builds AI-assisted imaging tools for professional photographers, retouchers, and visual production teams. Its product line spans desktop editing, cloud gallery and delivery (Evoto Instant), mobile and tablet apps, and video finishing—designed so studios can move from capture through batch retouching to client delivery in one connected workflow. The team focuses on high-volume portrait and event use cases, with an emphasis on workflow speed, repeatable quality, and user-controlled creative decisions.

In 2026, user-review platforms Capterra and Software Advice recognized Evoto AI across multiple photo-editing and AI software categories, including ease of use, value, recommendation, and customer support. Profiles: https://www.capterra.com/p/10015499/Evoto-AI/ and https://www.softwareadvice.com/product/515822-Evoto-AI/.

More information is available at https://www.evoto.ai/

 

 

If you're a fan of black & white photography, with a twist of fine art and macro flower photography thrown in, you've come to the right article as we're teaching you how to get all Mapplethorpe at home with one flower and a few photography tools. 

  Light & Equipment 

The location for this shoot was a living room, making most of the light pouring through the window. Direct sunlight is too harsh for this work so the set up was placed away from the window. A macro lens is ideal for this subject and it's always a good idea to mount your camera on a tripod for stability. Use a remote release, if you have one, to fire the shutter and if your camera has it, the mirror lock-up facility can also help minimise any risk of camera shake.

 

Backgrounds

The background needs to be plain and a piece of black material will work fine. The examples shown here were shot against a black fleece draped over the back of a chair and some on black slate slabs which goes to show you really can use anything! 
 

Exposure & Focusing 

Focusing was done manually, which is always best for macro work when the lens can search for focus and aperture-priority was used, along with the exposure compensation facility to fine-tune the result. With a white lily against a black backdrop, the risk of poor exposure is quite high, so you may need to make minor adjustments as you go along. 
 

 

For the above shot, the lens was set to its smallest aperture (f/36) for maximum depth-of-field which gave a shutter speed of 2secs. All the pictures here were done at ISO200.

Next, the flowers were moved closer to the camera and the lens was opened to its maximum aperture to throw the closer flower out of focus.

 

Closer still, these shots focus on the flower's stamen, with the shot to the right excluding the black backdrop completely. Depth-of-field, when you’re this close to the subject, is minimal even at a small aperture, as the images to the right shot at f/36 shows.

 

 

Quite a few cameras have a multiple exposure feature which will allow two or more exposures to be captured on the same frame. To create the effect shown in the following shot you need to capture one exposure sharp and one totally defocused.

 

If photographing the flower straight-on doesn't produce the look you're trying to create, try laying it down on a plain surface. The flower in the following shot had to be held in place with a piece of tape to open up the petal.

Black & White

Most digital cameras, even modest compacts, have a monochrome mode, which offers a quick way to enjoy black & white photography. However, convenient though this mode is, the image file straight out of the camera can lack contrast and may need some work in your editing software if you’re going to get the most from it.

The shot on the left is the JPEG monochrome file straight out of the camera and it looks a little flat. The right image is the same shot but the Levels were tweaked in Photoshop which gives more intense blacks and brighter whites.

 

It’s worth remembering that if you’re shooting in JPEG format, images shot in the monochrome setting will record in black & white only and you can’t produce a colour image should you change your mind later. Shoot Raw and even though the camera monitor might show the mono result you have the full-colour file at your disposal. The best option, if your camera has it, is to shoot in Raw and fine quality JPEG at the same time. 
 

In-Camera Edits 

Many cameras have the option of letting you modify your shots using contrast filters (yellow, orange and red are the most popular), toning effects and Art Filters. Some of which can work well with this type of photography so it's worth experimenting with.

Used sparingly, toning monochrome images is a very effective technique and if your camera doesn't allow you to apply effects while shooting, you can always adjust your shots in image editing software.
 

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When you accidentally remove the RAW photos, they're not totally lost but still on your camera's SD card, not showing themselves. With the right RAW image recovery tools and a little patience, you can get them back.

Here's what you need to know: how RAW photo recovery actually works, what causes files to disappear, and the smartest ways to bring those photos back - no matter what camera or storage device you're using.

 

 

Can You Recover RAW Photos from a Camera

 

Yes. Most times, it is possible to retrieve RAW images from a camera - if the files have not been replaced by newer recordings. Recovery depends on whether fresh media has written over the original data.

Deleting a RAW image or wiping a memory card entirely does not erase it instantly. That space gets flagged as "available" - yet the photograph remains hidden underneath. Only once new data moves in does it truly disappear.

Data recovery software like EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard takes advantage of this. It scans your camera memory card (whether it's an SD card, CF card, whatever), then looks for the unique signatures of RAW files like CR2, NEF, or ARW. With some luck, it can pull those deleted photo pieces back together and let you recover them entirely.

 

Common Reasons People Lose RAW Photos

 

Knowing how you lost your photos makes recovery a lot easier. Here's what usually happens:

• Accidentally delete files sometimes right from the camera or on your computer.
• Formatting the memory card wipes out everything fast, whether it's a quick format or a full one. 
• If the SD card or its file system gets corrupted, it often becomes unreadable, appears as "RAW," and locks you out. 
• If you remove the camera card without safely ejecting it on a computer, it can easily mess things up.
• Cameras show errors like "Card not formatted" or "Cannot read card," and that's never a good sign. 
• Viruses or malware sometimes sneak in when you use the card on different devices.
• Suddenly powering down while taking or saving RAW photos just leaves you with incomplete files.

 

Common RAW Photo Format by Camera Brands

 

Different camera manufacturers use proprietary RAW formats. A reliable recovery method must support all major types.

Popular Camera Brands & Their RAW Formats

• Canon: CR2 / CR3
• Nikon: NEF
• Sony: ARW
• Fujifilm: RAF
• Panasonic: RW2
• Olympus: ORF
• Leica: DNG
• GoPro: GPR

Camera Types Covered

• DSLR cameras
• Mirrorless cameras
• Compact digital cameras
• Action cameras

RAW files are slightly more complex to recover, but modern tools can handle them effectively.

 

How to Recover RAW Images from Digital Cameras

 

When you accidentally lose RAW photos from your camera, don't panic. The best way to get them back is with a reliable data recovery program, and EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard is one of the top choices.

This professional RAW image recovery tool handles almost all RAW formats like CR2, NEF, ARW, RAF, and DNG. Whether you're using an SD card, microSD, or CF card, the software works across the board. It recovers files from formatted cards and even from corrupted (RAW) SD cards.

Follow these steps to recover deleted RAW photos from the camera:

Step 1. Open the camera, remove the memory card gently. Connect it to the computer using a compatible reader device. Wait for the system to recognize the storage unit before proceeding.

Step 2. Begin by opening the EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard. Once active, locate the storage device from the available drives. Choose the memory card shown in the menu. Proceed with initiating a scan. The process begins after selection is confirmed.

Step 3. As the scan runs - or once it finishes - narrow outcomes using file categories to locate your CR2, NEF, ARW, or any required RAW format. Focus shifts here naturally when sorting begins.

Step 4. Now preview the available files, picking only those pictures you need before starting recovery. To avoid complications, store them on a different drive instead of using the initial memory card again. A new location reduces risk - simple choice, a better outcome.

 

 

 

Alternative Ways to Restore Missing RAW Photos from Cameras

 

You don't always need professional camera recovery software to restore missing RAW photos from camera SD cards. Here are a few other options that sometimes do the trick:

 

Restore from Backup

If you're good about backing up your photos, you're in luck. Just check wherever you usually store your backups, maybe it's Google Drive, Google Photos, iCloud, Dropbox, an external drive, or a NAS. Restoring from a backup is by far the easiest way, as long as you actually made one before your photos disappeared.

 

Try Built-in Backup & Recovery Tools

Windows has File History, and Macs have Time Machine. If you set them up beforehand, you can pull lost files right from there. Just remember, these tools won't help if you never turn them on.

 

 

Deal with a RAW SD Card (After Recovery)

If your SD card suddenly shows up as RAW, save your files first. Use recovery software to grab your data, then go ahead and repair the SD card; something like CHKDSK can help on Windows.

 

Conclusion

 

Most photo recovery works best when you move fast, especially with RAW images straight from your camera. EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard handles such RAW formats well, making restoration smoother if you move fast after data loss.

To improve your chances of recovering lost RAW images:

• Immediately cease operation of the memory card or storage device.
• Use trusted recovery software.
• Keep regular backups.

If you follow these tips, you'll protect your photos and spend less time stressing over lost RAW images.

 

Camera RAW Photo Recovery FAQs

 

1. Can I recover RAW photos after formatting an SD card?

Recovered RAW images remain possible after formatting if new information has not overwritten the old ones. File structure links vanish during formatting; however, underlying data often stays intact initially. Tools that support deep scan may detect and rebuild lost photographs. Acting quickly increases the chances significantly.

 

2. Why does my SD card show as RAW?

A RAW SD card means the file system is corrupted or unrecognized by the operating system. This can happen due to improper ejection, a virus attack, or a sudden power failure. In this state, the card becomes inaccessible, but the data may still be recoverable. You should recover files first before attempting any repairs.

 

3. Can permanently deleted RAW photos be recovered?

Yes, even permanently deleted RAW photos can often be recovered using advanced data recovery software. These tools scan the storage device for leftover file signatures and reconstruct the files. However, if new data has overwritten the original files, recovery may not be possible. That's why immediate action is critical.

The AI platform trusted by over 100,000 photographers now delivers professional, style-consistent color grading across every clip - directly inside Adobe Premiere Pro or DaVinci Resolve.

 

Today, Imagen Video officially launches out of beta. Imagen, the AI-driven editing platform that has transformed post-production for photographers globally, announced the official launch of Imagen Video at NAB Show 2026. After exiting beta, Imagen Video now offers advanced AI color grading seamlessly integrated into Adobe Premiere Pro or DaVinci Resolve, enabling video editors to enjoy automated efficiency while maintaining full creative control. Attendees can experience Imagen Video live at Imagen's NAB booth, April 18-22.

Color grading has long been one of the most technically demanding and time-consuming stages of video post-production. For editors working across multiple cameras, varied lighting conditions, and tight delivery deadlines, achieving a consistent, professional look can consume hours of manual work per project. Imagen Video eliminates that grind.

By combining AI Profiles trained on professional color styles with full support for custom LUTs, Imagen Video analyzes each clip individually, adjusting for lighting shifts, white balance inconsistencies, skin tones, and camera sensor differences, delivering a consistent, polished baseline grade up to 10 times faster than manual correction, helping editors meet tight deadlines with ease.

 

 

Unlike generic color correction tools, Imagen Video adapts to each editor's individual creative signature. Editors can apply their own LUTs or choose from professionally designed AI Profiles, and Imagen's AI handles the clip-by-clip adjustments needed to keep that look consistent across an entire sequence, empowering editors to stay true to their vision regardless of camera or lighting changes.

"Color grading is where a project either comes together or falls apart. And for most editors, it's also where hours disappear. We didn't build Imagen Video to replace the editor's eye. We built it to handle everything that doesn't require one: the technical corrections, the clip-by-clip adjustments, the camera matching. Imagen Video is the co-pilot every editor deserves; it handles the technical work, so you can stay focused on the creative," said Yotam Gil, co-founder and CEO of Imagen. 

The results are already speaking for themselves. Tyler Hergott, an interior design videographer, put Imagen Video to a direct test against his own manual grade: 

"I sent the client three versions: one converted through Adobe, one with my own manual color grade, and one color-graded by Imagen. I didn't tell her which was which. The designer selected the Imagen-graded version," says Tyler, interior design videographer.

One of the most common and costly pain points for event, wedding, and documentary videographers is matching footage across multiple camera bodies. Even cameras from the same manufacturer can produce shots that look noticeably different when cut together. Imagen Video's AI automatically harmonizes footage across sensors, lenses, and ISO settings - delivering a unified sequence without requiring editors to leave Premiere Pro or DaVinci Resolve.

"I'll shoot interviews with two or three cameras - all Sony, using Sony glass - but they never match perfectly. It's really hard to get them to match when cutting back and forth. Imagen does it flawlessly. I can't see going back to my old way of doing things," says Joe, a non-profit and event videographer.

 

 

Imagen Video runs natively in Adobe Premiere Pro and DaVinci Resolve, so editors can stay in their existing workflow from first cut to final grade. There is no round-tripping, no file export, and no separate application to manage, ensuring a smooth transition that respects their established process and expertise.

Within Premiere Pro or DaVinci Resolve, editors can apply their own LUTs or select from AI Profiles trained on professional color styles. From there, Imagen handles the technical layer automatically: correcting white balance and matching footage across different camera sensors and lenses so that editors can focus on the creative grade rather than the corrective one.

Imagen Video is available now as a full release, with comprehensive support and training resources to help users maximize its features. Detailed pricing and plan information are available at imagen-ai.com. 

 

About Imagen

Imagen is the personal AI platform for professional photographers and videographers. The pioneer in AI-powered photo editing since 2020, Imagen helps over 100,000 photographers worldwide save time on editing, reduce costs, and deliver consistent, professional results at any scale. During beta, thousands of video editors graded hundreds of projects on Imagen Video, validating its performance across real-world workflows before today's full release. The platform serves studios, agencies, and independent professionals across weddings, events, schools, sports, and commercial photography and videography. For more information, visit imagen-ai.com.

 

 

A stunning long exposure dance photo has won our Photo of the Week award. Taken during a one day workshop, this image by chataignier titled Persistance of vision workshop shows just how much you can do with shutter drag and long exposures to capture movement. By combining flash with stage lighting, the photographer froze the dancers' expressions while the golden fabric swept and swirled across the frame. We love how the soft, trailing motion creates a sense of rhythm and energy that feels dreamlike and beautiful. The warm tones against the deep black background make the dancers stand out, while the tiny particles caught in the light add an extra layer of magic to the scene. It is a creative and skilful shot that perfectly captures the artistry of experimental lighting.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we’ll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

If you want an interesting challenge, head out with your camera and search for numbers and letters or better still, objects that look like numbers and letters. You'll be impressed with how many you'll actually find and when they're put together they can make an interesting panel to hang on your wall. All you need is your camera, a good imagination and some decent weather!

 

What Can I Photograph?

If you're looking for ideas, a lighthouse can be used as a number one, chimneys can look like a number 11 and a traffic light can be a 3 or and E depending on the direction they're facing.

When we say photograph numbers/letters, you can take this literally or you could put your imagination to the test and look for them in places other people wouldn't think to look.

If you have a door number start with that then take a walk up your street and into your town snapping shop signs, adverts and road signs. Make sure you fill the frame with what you find and watch out for reflections and glare bouncing off shiny door numbers.

 

More Ideas 

When you're ready to give your grey cells a bit of a work out start looking for objects that look like numbers and letters. You may need to stand and imagine what the object looks like flipped the other way or crop into a part of it to get the number you're looking for but with a little work with your imagination, you'll soon be on your way. Make sure you take a quick look at what's surrounding your subject as a busy background won't make the number jump out of the frame. Try using a large aperture to throw the background out of focus leaving all attention on your object.

 

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